Timmycharger's 68 Resto

[timmycharger]

Thanks Dino, I'm leaning more towards what you had suggested with the gray primer, I think that would be just fine. I have lots of bare spots now from blocking so I will end up using the epoxy before I spray the featherfill.

Got some work done on it this weekend, the Dutchman panel is pretty nice now, the entire top of the car is blocked, now we are making our way down the sides. The tail panel needed a lot of work but looks nice now. I wasn't very happy with the corners where the end caps go on, had to use filler to make it look nice because I was not very careful when I welded it and made a bit of a mess. It looks nice now but I would have done it different if were to do it again. Got a layer of filler down the quarter and fender, the door was very straight, only a slight low spot around the left handle bolt hole, I will try to hammer it from the backside flat as any filler will crack there.

I have been at this since January, going out there about 2x a week, total of about 12 hours per, not much to show for it yet but making progress!

[timmycharger]

 

[timmycharger]

 

[keepat]

Looking great!!
Pat

[timmycharger]

Thanks, Pat.



Making super slow progress, even though I have been able to get more hours in the garage. The first pic describes my pace 

The good news is once I finish the filler work on the top of the quarters, it will go much more quickly as below the main body line, the panels are very straight and need filler only in a few spots and along the tape line to help out the terrible body lines from the Year One quarter skins.  Below the tape line is very straight luckily.   We spend a lot of time on each panel to get it straight as a possible, I am sure this time will payoff when the final product is completed.

Once the filler work is done, then it will get a coat of epoxy primer, then a coat or 2 of the feather fill.  Then blocking, blocking and more blocking until ready for more primer.  Still on track to spray it in June, but hopefully sooner as the guy that has been helping me on this since day 1 will be moving down to VA in June so I have some extra motivation to get the bodywork done in time for him to shoot it before he leaves.  If it wasn't for him, I wouldn't be even close to the point I am at now so I am grateful for all the time he has put into this.

[timmycharger]

 

[timmycharger]

Finally, the filler work is done.  It was very slow, but I could only get out there once or maybe twice a week. Got it out of the booth to clean it off, hopefully next week we can spray the Epoxy sealer and Featherfill G2.  Hoping it will block easy given how much time spent with the filler work getting it perfect.  Felt good to fire it up too

[keepat]

I'm sure it was nice to start it up and drive outside just to blow it off where the dust won't land in the garage. Look forward to seeing it all one color even if it is primer!
Pat 

[timmycharger]

I'm sure it was nice to start it up and drive outside just to blow it off where the dust won't land in the garage. Look forward to seeing it all one color even if it is primer!
Pat 

Thanks, Pat, it sure was!

I widened the paint booth so both doors could open, then had to re tape the car after blowing it off. Used an old box as a make shift duct with a small fan in the window to blow the fumes out the lower fans. Worked pretty well.

First, we put down a coat of epoxy primer/sealer to cover the bare spots followed by 2 coats of the G2 Featherfill. That went down real nice, we reduced it about 5% with Acetone to thin it out a bit.

Now some small areas need to be addressed, then its blocking time.

[timmycharger]

 

[keepat]

 Body lines look great! Nice job!
Pat

[VegasCharger]

Body lines look great! Nice job!
Pat

   

[charger chris]

Very nice work

[CDN72SE]

Looking real good. 

[tan top]

     

[timmycharger]

Thanks guys, it felt great to get to see the lines as its so hard to see when its half filler and primer.  

I'm running out of time to get it painted unfortunately as my brother in law is moving in a few weeks and I am not sure if I will have the time to properly block it and prep it for painting before he goes. This is something I do  not want to rush so we will keep at it and try to get a perfectly blocked body and I may explore having someone spray the topcoat for me, and possibly color sand and buff after. I can do the blackout area on the taillight panel and the stripe decal.

I was out there last night with a good LED light and found lots of pin holes and a few scratches. I may do another coat of the featherfill on these areas or maybe just a high build primer.  

[Dino]

First off: excellent work and kudos for getting to this stage. You deserve a pat on the back and a few cold beers!   

Second: you're correct in not rushing now as you do not want to risk a sub-optimal result in final paint after doing all this work.

Third: be very careful with pinholes. They can ruin a good paint job and are sometimes hard to get rid off. The problem with covering up pinholes is that dirt, debris, and air can become trapped in there and that can result in the pinhole leaving a mark later down he line after you have it painted. Ideally you sand those areas so the pinholes are gone, but if you have to fill them then be sure to blast them with compressed air, and even go over them with a vacuum, to make sure nothing is trapped in there. You may want to use a fine filler to close up any fine pinholes, or use a skim coat of metal primer. If you put a good amount of pressure on the putty knife you can force the filler into the pinholes and force the air out. Leave the filler on for several days before sanding to make sure it's rock hard. I'd still try to sand them out though.

It's a lot of work but the best thing to do is block the car and not mind going through the primer, and then prime it again. It's part piece of mind really. If you don't care that you'll sand through the primer then all your focus will be on getting the car as straight as possible instead of focusing on not breaching the primer and maybe leaving some imperfections. Then when you block it a second time you won't have to sand through it anywhere and have a perfect base for sealer and topcoat. But it's a lot of work to be sure.

Either way I'm sure you'll end up with a great end product.   

[timmycharger]

First off: excellent work and kudos for getting to this stage. You deserve a pat on the back and a few cold beers!   

Second: you're correct in not rushing now as you do not want to risk a sub-optimal result in final paint after doing all this work.

Third: be very careful with pinholes. They can ruin a good paint job and are sometimes hard to get rid off. The problem with covering up pinholes is that dirt, debris, and air can become trapped in there and that can result in the pinhole leaving a mark later down he line after you have it painted. Ideally you sand those areas so the pinholes are gone, but if you have to fill them then be sure to blast them with compressed air, and even go over them with a vacuum, to make sure nothing is trapped in there. You may want to use a fine filler to close up any fine pinholes, or use a skim coat of metal primer. If you put a good amount of pressure on the putty knife you can force the filler into the pinholes and force the air out. Leave the filler on for several days before sanding to make sure it's rock hard. I'd still try to sand them out though.

It's a lot of work but the best thing to do is block the car and not mind going through the primer, and then prime it again. It's part piece of mind really. If you don't care that you'll sand through the primer then all your focus will be on getting the car as straight as possible instead of focusing on not breaching the primer and maybe leaving some imperfections. Then when you block it a second time you won't have to sand through it anywhere and have a perfect base for sealer and topcoat. But it's a lot of work to be sure.

Either way I'm sure you'll end up with a great end product.   

Thanks, Dino, It has been a long ride, getting closer and closer.

Great tips, After making sure they were clean as possible, I filled in the pin holes with the filler.  l still have to get a few more I missed, Ill crawl around again with the light to get them all. I will be doing like you say above, blocking it flat as possible, then hitting it wiht another coat of poly or high build and then block it out again.  I like what I am seeing already pre blocking, in the right light you can really see how flat the panels are, the finished product should be really nice.

[timmycharger]

I am going to have arms like Hulk Hogan in his prime when I'm done sanding this car 

After going around the car with a huge LED light, we fixed a few imperfections in the filled spots along with the body line itself.  We guide coated the entire car and started blocking the first coat of primer with 180 grit. As you can see we went to the epoxy in a few spots but as pointed out by Dino, I am hoping the second coat of primer will be easier.  We got through about half of the car, still a lot of real estate left to cover. 

the plan is to have it sprayed with another coat of primer on Sunday before my brother in law leaves. If we can't get it blocked by then then I will lay down the primer myself, it will just take me longer.  I will then block it down one more time to 600 grit and hopefully have it ready for the sealer and paint.

Since my brother in law is leaving, I had to make alternate plans on painting the car. As luck would have it, there is a body shop within walking distance from my house who does quality work, as vouched by my mechanic after I inquired about him.  He came over to look at it on Friday and will get back to me on a quote or even if he wants the job. Basically I am asking for sealer, base coat/clear and a color sand and buff.  Proper taping, etc which he assured me he would do. 

[JR]

That is top notch bodywork.

Good job man, it will be worth the work.

[timmycharger]

Thank you, JR!


Looks like its going to get painted soon! Talked to the body guy today and we agreed on a price for him to paint it. 

I just need to get the second coat of primer on and block it out to 600 grit.  The second time around should be easier I hope!

[timmycharger]

We finished the blocking at 180 on the featherfill so today I put down 3 coats of 2k High Build Primer, probably close to 5 coats n the rear quarter body line area, its a little wavy so I will get the straight edge and tape and try to block it straight as possible.

I will block this out to 600 per the painter's request, then it will be off to be sprayed 

[timmycharger]

 

[Dino]

Looking mighty fine!   

[68pplcharger]

Looking good and getting close