Fuel tank pad

[Dino]

I just realized that with all the parts I ordered, I forgot all about the fuel tank pad.  Mine was long gone.

The parts will arrive today and I really want to get the car done asap and not order and wait for the pad to arrive so I'd like to use something else.  Is there any product you guys can think off available at big box stores that could work in its place?  I have a small roll of toolbox drawer liner but it's narrow and really thin.  I suppose I could glue a few pieces together but maybe there's a better alternative.

[rick@laysons]

Tar paper/roofing felt

[Dino]

I thought about that and even have some left here although it's really old and may fall apart in my hands.  I just came back from Ace hardware to get something else and found Craftsman tool drawer liner that was a little over 22" wide and 85" long.  Looks to be just under 1/8" thick so I'll be using that.  It should prevent squeaks pretty good.  I hope.    

[BrianShaughnessy]

Original pads were made with asbestos felt...  not available anymore.
Some people use 30 lb roofing tar paper.
Detroit Muscle Technologies sells 2 kinds.   One is 060" bitumen saturated felt paper,  the other is .090" masticated rubber.

I bought the rubber one.

[Dino]

Thanks Brian, I just looked at DMT's options.  I think this rubber liner will work just fine.  It's also long enough that I can double it up which I'll probably do.  The tar paper I have is 15 pound and I don't see the point of using that.  My trunk floor needs replacing.  There's various small holes in the bottom but the inside of the trunk has been coated with something tar like by the po.  Two layers of thin rubber should protect the tank itself from rubbing on the rusty floor.

[A12 Superbee]

Make sure it's not too thick or you'll have a hell of a time getting the tank straps back in! I went for a rubber rectangle, about 3mm thick and I only just managed to get the straps bolts in, whilst lying on my back, knees pushing up the tank, lots of sweariing, aneurisms, heart attacks etc. It was bloody murder!

[Dino]

Thanks for the heads up A12.  

The rubber is pretty thin but just in case, I attached it to the tank with thin carpet tape and loosely attached the second layer to the first with tape as well.  Should it be too thick I'll be able to peel the second layer off easily.

Can you guys tell me if I installed the fuel filler tube seal correctly?  I think I did but it's been a long day and I'm doubting just about everything.

Also, does the lock ring seem snug enough?  I thought I had to get that little hump under the tabs but I'll need to call Superman if that's the case.  I have the lock ring wrench and if I put more pressure on it, it'll slip off the ring.

[Dino]

One more

[kab69440]

You don't need Superman. All you need is a thin layer of grease and a rubber mallet.

Sorry, misread your post. Forget I said anything.

[Dino]

You don't need Superman. All you need is a thin layer of grease and a rubber mallet.

Sorry, misread your post. Forget I said anything.

So the ring is on correctly?  If not I can certainly try grease and a mallet.   

[dual fours]

You don't need Superman. All you need is a thin layer of grease and a rubber mallet.

Sorry, misread your post. Forget I said anything.

So the ring is on correctly?  If not I can certainly try grease and a mallet.  

No. The ring should look like my first photo when locked in place.
And is your filler neck grommet in place on your tank (where it is exactly to be) in your photo? My second photo is an original gasket, slightly swelled (right side on photo) on the inside half from 28 year old gas.
Third photo will show how I held tank up and in place while I pushed the tank to rear of car to get tank set in place.
Well the third photo is actually starting the tank removal process. Your get the idea though.

Make sure your J bolts fit loosely though your straps before you are on your back trying to start the install.

[Dino]

Alright looks like it's hammer time on the ring then!  I'll definitely will need to use some grease to get that going.

I foolishly threw away the old filler seal and now I'm unsure how to fit it.  There's a lip on the seal that fits over the metal tank lip, but it seemed odd that this was the only contact it would make.  I hope it's the correct seal.  I'll look at it again in the morning with fresh eyes.

Thanks df   

[dual fours]

Alright looks like it's hammer time on the ring then!  I'll definitely will need to use some grease to get that going.

I foolishly threw away the old filler seal and now I'm unsure how to fit it.  There's a lip on the seal that fits over the metal tank lip, but it seemed odd that this was the only contact it would make.  I hope it's the correct seal.  I'll look at it again in the morning with fresh eyes.

Thanks df  

Photo # 1 is original fuel filler neck gasket with part number.
Photo # 2 shows the depth of old original fuel neck gasket in old fuel tank. The orange plug is stuck inside fuel neck gasket just to keep the nasty fuel smell inside.

Now that we totally left the Original (Pad) Subject.  

[dual fours]

OH, make sure the fuel sending unit is seated in the tank, I remember two notchs on the tank that lines up with a knot on the sending unit.  

[Dino]

Your tank  has a  few issues there.   

Yep, sender has two tabs to fit the notches.  With some grease on the thin seal, a breaker bar on the wrench, and someone to steady the tank I'm sure I can pop the ring into place.   And if not I'll make up some new swear words.

The neck seal I have is thicker but it's basically like the original with extra rubber. http://a12mopar.com/yabb/Attachments/tank_gaskets.JPG

So according to your picture, the beveled part sticks out and the rest goes in the tank with the big groove being the part that fits over the metal extruded ring of the tank...I'm gonna need more grease.

Oh and I did change the thread title but I didn't do it right as the following posts didn't show the change.   

I have the jack and a piece of plywood ready to support the tank.  Hopefully it won't take me half a day to install, I'm itching to take it for a spin.

Thanks again, this is a big help.   

[dual fours]

Thought of something else, sorry I think slow.

My fuel sending unit from Kramer Parts and my fuel tank from Spectra did not mate well, with the sock on, it hit the bottom of the tank and would not let the sending unit seat correctly with the tank (Kramer's bends do not match original bends), (hard to get the lock ring to lock). Photo shows sock removed (looking in tank opening) and then lock ring locked correctly with out fighting me. I bent the tube to point up a tad so the sock is not pressing against the bottom of the tank. This did not change the angles in relationship to sending unit and tank face so as not to change the float level.

[dual fours]

I'm going to try to post this one more time (an error has occurred) .
I'm not sure why your gasket is so thick, but I'm sure that you'd use the groove I marked in white in this poor copy I made of your photo. Do not grease the outer groove of the gasket that mates with the tank. After the tank is drawn tight into place, lightly grease the inner hole of the gasket and the filler neck with grease that will not attack the rubber, make sure the flat rubber neck /trunk floor seal is in place and the small vent tube is started down though the rubber grommet in the floor.

[Dino]

Alright, I checked the sending unit inside the tank and the sock is about 1/4" off the bottom.  Which means I'll have a bit of fuel left when the gauge reads empty.  It was about 3 gallons when I emptied the old tank so that's a nice buffer.

The filler neck grommet is in place, thanks for the picture.   

If I read this right, I need the tank in place before the filler neck goes in.  I'll try but my trunk floor is covered in tar so I hope I can move the tube.  It's smeared all around it.  I removed the old tank without touching the filler tube by dropping the passenger side of the tank and sliding it sideways.  I foresee this may not be possible to do in reverse, but it won't hurt to try.

First I'm going to attempt getting that lock ring in place without damaging anything...including myself.   

[dual fours]

If I read this right, I need the tank in place before the filler neck goes in.  I'll try but my trunk floor is covered in tar so I hope I can move the tube.  It's smeared all around it.  I removed the old tank without touching the filler tube by dropping the passenger side of the tank and sliding it sideways.  I foresee this may not be possible to do in reverse, but it won't hurt to try.

You're reading it right I guess, I removed my fuel neck because I thought that was the way to do it.
The trunk floor/fuel neck seal is held in place with 4 maybe 5 Phillips head screws, maybe you can find them under the tar and lift the seal and neck out in one piece, after you remove the flip top gas cap (don't loose the flip top cap screws down the neck), yea one thing leads to another.

[Dino]

The tank is in!   

The  trunk floor seal was so embedded in the tar that I didn't want to mess with it unless I really had to.  So I removed the gas cap, after I taped off the filler tube hole of course  , and that gave it quite a bit of play.  I set the tank on a tall box and got part of the filler tube to slide into the grommet.  It took a few tries but I was able to get one of the j bolts in place and not long after the second popped into place.  That was a good moment!   

With a pry bar wrapped in cloth I moved the tank side to side until it was dead center and started snugging up the bolts.  Everything worked out great and the filler tube slide right into place.

I put a few gas cans worth in the tank and was on my way to the gas station to fill it up but the car ran like crap and got hot real fast so I turned around and went back home.  I know the carb is dying but the heat issue is new.  I'll burp the system tomorrow and see if it improves.  Next week I'll have the a/c evacuated and then it's time to give the beast a major overhaul!

Thanks for all the help, it is sincerely appreciated!