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Fuel pump pushrod normally tough to get in?

Started by Chargerguy74, July 17, 2015, 02:44:44 PM

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ws23rt

Quote from: A383Wing on July 17, 2015, 10:35:18 PM
you will never be able to drill a small hole in the rod...you don't realize how hard the metal the tip of the rod is made from...you will not have a drill bit sharp enough

I agree :2thumbs:  In fact I agree so much as to recommend you don't even try.


Chargerguy74

Quote from: Dino on July 17, 2015, 10:34:00 PM
Way cool!  I had no clue this was your niche!   :2thumbs:

I knew ;) I was waiting for it. You didn't disappoint, ws23rt.  :cheers: Now I'm wondering if it'll operate okay. Too much at risk taking the chance I think.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Dino

Do you think you can get the rod moving by turning the engine by hand?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Chargerguy74

Yeah, I turned it over by hand and the rod pushed out a little ways, that was my starting point. I was hoping it would be enough.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

ws23rt

I was just going to say that. :lol: Turn the engine over to push the rod out to it's farthest point. Then find the best way to grab the rod  and be use care with easy twisting and pulling. BTW I would consider this rod as being toast so give no mind to protecting it. You should not expect to use this rod again. :slap:---Bad rod :slap:-- :lol:

Dino

I doubt the rod moves enough to move it in and out a bunch of times and get anywhere.  I'd still lube the rod and try though..  Damn, I think I just lured Skip to this thread.   :lol:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Chargerguy74

I am really thinking about an electric pump right now. 550ish hp expected and a 120gph carter mechanical? I spent all day bending up a 3/8 fuel line from pump to carb too. Well not all day, but I spent 10 hours on the engine today. Lots of little stuff. Pics when I get home.

ws23rt, this rod is dead to me.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Chargerguy74

What do you guys recommend for a fuel pump pushrod? I'm gonna order a couple tomorrow if I can't find any locally.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

ws23rt

I don't have any particular recommendation.  The rod you got from wherever should have been just fine. All I can think of is that it was bent. :shruggy:

If it was my question I would go with what Brian (A383Wing) would recommend.

Chargerguy74

WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Chargerguy74

Ws23rt, do you think it would be pointless to blast co2 at the rod to help it cool and contract a bit? Would the contraction be negligible? I really don't know how cold it would get.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

ws23rt

Quote from: Chargerguy74 on July 17, 2015, 11:56:20 PM
Ws23rt, do you think it would be pointless to blast co2 at the rod to help it cool and contract a bit? Would the contraction be negligible? I really don't know how cold it would get.

Yes the contraction would be negligible. The cooling would need to migrate up into the point of restriction and the time it would take would add cooling to the bore at the same approximate rate. It would be chasing a fast moving window of opportunity and the best contraction of the rod to be expected would be about one half of the value I talked about earlier.

If you could get a good grip in some way on the end of the rod. (vicegrips?) and add a slide hammer of sorts to the vicegrips that may ease it out. Twisting the rod in the bore as you pull.

Chargerguy74

Looks like the timing cover will be coming off, one more time. Oh well. I'm thinking of trying a comp 4626A pushrod, 0.434" diameter. It's length is 3.22".
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Chargerguy74

It was a productive day otherwise. The fuel line does not touch the block anywhere.













WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

birdsandbees

Do you not have a good pair of needle nose vise grips? I would think you could get them clamped on the end of that and then a big screw driver between the pliers and the block to pop it out. I'd be trying every trick known to man before I was dismantling the engine.

1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

Chargerguy74

I tried pliers with a much slimmer profile. There's just not enough room to open them wide enough.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

birdsandbees

Yah.. you'd have to do some external grinding to shape them enough to get them in there. Do you have a set of brake spring pliers?? Might get them in or something similar to get a hold on it. Like I said I'd be trying everything and anything vs tearing the front off the engine.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

Chargerguy74

I tried a pair of really long snap ring pliers. There's nothing I can think of that has a slimmer profile. I wish I took a pic of them.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Daytona R/T SE

OK, This might sound stupid...

It's been a decade or more since I've had an engine opened up...

But...

If you turn the engine...

Won't the camshaft push the rod outward ?  :scratchchin:

ws23rt

I think the cam has already pushed the rod out as far as it can. :shruggy:

cdr

if i remember correct, you could use a long skinny screw driver through the distributor hole & push on the rod a little, maybe a welding rod.

i just looked at my old 383 & you should be able to move the rod a good amount.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
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A383Wing

I got my new pump rods from eBay years ago...NAPA, Schucks, or anyone has all the same rods....here are the pliers I suggested ...called Hose Gripper Pliers Set....

A383Wing

UPDATE: Went back out and re-measured all 3 of my new pump rods with different micrometers, all 3 measure .4345" in the center of the rod.

I used my 2 digital ones this time to measure....evidently I cannot add numbers correctly using the old style micrometer

sorry, my bad

Chargerguy74

Quote from: cdr on July 18, 2015, 10:55:41 AM
if i remember correct, you could use a long skinny screw driver through the distributor hole & push on the rod a little, maybe a welding rod.

i just looked at my old 383 & you should be able to move the rod a good amount.

Is this possible with the cam in?
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

Chargerguy74

Quote from: A383Wing on July 18, 2015, 11:06:02 AM
I got my new pump rods from eBay years ago...NAPA, Schucks, or anyone has all the same rods....here are the pliers I suggested ...called Hose Gripper Pliers Set....

Those look like they would work. Thanks for posting pics! Now to find some. Looks like Princess Auto has a pair of 13" double jointed ones, but that's it.

No prob on the measurements, I'm actually glad your measurements were off the first time.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002