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69 parking lights, what holds them in place?

Started by Lord Warlock, July 02, 2015, 09:04:01 PM

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Lord Warlock

Is there a brace or something that the bottom of the housings bolt to in order to secure them in place?  I was trying to put new bulbs in and noticed that the only mount that I see is the one in the top eyelid area that holds it up under the bumper, one screw.  I noticed the factory housings had two holes on the bottom of each that look like they mount somewhere, but I'm not seeing anything in there to screw them to, and don't remember screws going through the valence itself.  I replaced the valence a long time ago with an AMD unit, but if forced to can dig the original out of the wood shed and see if I left something important on it. 

I know they can't just hang by one small screw, they'd batter themselves against the valence on every bump.  So, I've come to the experts.  Someone should know.  If there is a part I need, I'll need to know what it looks like so I can dig thru the parts bins.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

myk

That's all I've got on mine, just one lonely screw on each side...

Lord Warlock

then why are there 2 screw holes in the bottom of the housing? These are gonna bounce a lot unless they bolt down elsewhere. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

myk

Honestly I don't think I've ever heard or noticed the lights bouncing.  Actually, between my uber-stiff, polyurethane Hotchkis suspension squeaking and groaning every other second in concert with my buzz sawing electric fuel pump I can't hear a damn thing...

cdr

should have 2 screws through the valence & one on the top
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Barfyspitz

68s have three.  one went through the top and two went through the vALance

VegasCharger

Here are pics of a 1970 Charger set-up. 68-69s are similar set-up just different shaped.

A total of 3 screws are used as cdr and Barfyspitz mentioned.

All 3 mount to the valance. Pics should help describe.

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Lord Warlock

That's what I thought it should look like, but my replacement valence didn't have the screw holes in it, so I'll have to drag out the original to make a template to drill the holes.  My original looks strangely similar to the one pictured, y3 with scrapes and rust in spots, mines probably better than that actually.  I just looked at mine this afternoon after putting new lenses on and new bulbs in the housings, they'd been hanging by just one screw, but when looked closer noticed the holes in the bottom, but no holes.  Looks like I have hole #1, but need to make #2 and 3.

Suppose its a good thing to always hold on to old parts if at all possible.  

pulled a muscle in the back of my knee trying to crouch down to find the wires and get the housings in place, I keep finding ways to make myself feel old.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

VegasCharger

Quote from: cdr on July 03, 2015, 12:45:29 AM
great pics VEGASCHARGER!!!     :2thumbs:

Thanks :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Quote from: Lord Warlock on July 03, 2015, 03:36:05 AM
That's what I thought it should look like, but my replacement valence didn't have the screw holes in it, so I'll have to drag out the original to make a template to drill the holes.  My original looks strangely similar to the one pictured, y3 with scrapes and rust in spots, mines probably better than that actually.  I just looked at mine this afternoon after putting new lenses on and new bulbs in the housings, they'd been hanging by just one screw, but when looked closer noticed the holes in the bottom, but no holes. 

Suppose its a good thing to always hold on to old parts if at all possible. 

I also should add that hole #1 on the valance there should be a "U" nut there. This acts as the catch threads for the single upper screw. My valance in the pic had that u nut removed.

Lord Warlock

Yeah, mine has the clip or U nut you're talking about, that's what holds the #1 screw in.  I swapped them with the other panel.

One of my housings still had a bulb in it when I started changing bulbs, it appeared to be a clear bulb that had a yellow coating on it to make it flash yellow. The newer bulbs were tinted orange, probably weren't the correct bulb exactly.  I'm pretty sure those bulbs have been there since I got the car, i.e the ones inside the housings.

The inner housing looks like it was painted silver at one time, but was faded by sun or age, you could tell where with the lens removed, tempted to take them off and repaint the inside of the housing, although it won't likely make much difference in the long run, just a delaying tactic. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

myk

Huh.  Never noticed the other mounting points.  Learn something everyday... :shruggy:

Just 6T9 CHGR

Could your repro valance not have the holes punched out? 

They should be tapered as well to accept tapered screws.  :Twocents:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Lord Warlock

My replacement valence wasn't drilled, I pulled the original valence out of shed and it has two holes drilled below each hole. Will upload pics shortly. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

cdr

also there is a left & right if i remember correct.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Lord Warlock

The lenses have an L and an R on them, but is the perspective from sitting in the car, or looking at the front end? I put the L lens on the drivers side.

uploading photos is always a multi-step process for me, upload to pc from camera/tablet/phone, upload to photobucket, then link em because its too much trouble to size my photos to 200 or less.  I'm old, the quickest way is often the best way but if I hosting the pics I'd do them smaller.  

Here are pics of both the original valence and one shot of the new one taken from underneath. (my knee curses you).  I remember when I took this off 15 years or more ago I thought it was rough and would be cheaper to replace than to fix, but now that I look at it, I'll probably end up getting it fixed anyway.  I'd like to have all the stock sheetmetal on the car.  I was attempting to hide the evidence of one of my less successful ventures cutting thru a parking lot and hitting two curbs at speed, bent both sides when nose came down HARD, also pried half of the sway bar mount off, had to swap one to fix that a few years later.    After doing one moonshot (back leaf spring mounts hit ground, I was looking at stars thru windshield) and fixing the damage to the car afterward(-every bushing in front end squashed flat, two went thru frame, alignment went to crapper, ruined two tires in 2 days) I decided that the DOH show was movie magic.  THIS is what a teenage driver will do to a car, adults just don't do this stuff.




this one needed to be separated or it was hard to make out.  gonna have to wetsand the valence some day, has dark age spots down there from previous sanding sessions where water ran down and never got wiped off.  Maybe i'll have the energy to get to that some day.  as can see, no holes there, so everyone that has put on AMD panels, check and make sure you have your lights secured properly.  
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lord Warlock

Think I may have a few leftover stainless trim screws that will work here...if I can find where I put them...dammit I'll have to take one out to verify the size or thread spacing, I'll worry about that after I drill holes this afternoon.  Have a long weekend.

Happy 4th to all that celebrate it. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lennard

Left and right is always seen from the drivers seat.