Worn Cam lobe.....Grrrr.....

[tecmopar]

I don't think I have ever seen one go bad that didn't marr up the lifter, even just a little and also not leave some shavings floating around in there somewhere. You said that it was opening the valve when you rotated it so I don't mean to sound condisending but are you sure your not looking at the fuel pump cam lobe thinking its the #2 exhaust lobe, good luck.

[Chryco Psycho]

the quality of hyd lifters has suffered due to 1 factory going out of business & a second having a fire around the same time which overloaded the last factory , I have lost more cams recently then ever before , so probably the lifter failed first

[MOPARHOUND!]

Did all the lobes look good prior to installation?

I've heard of more than one cam with a failed bad lobe being returned, mistakenly being put back in stock, and sent out to the next guy.  In this scenario, the first guy would have had the metal in his engine.

If it ran okay the first 100 mile though??

When #6 intake lobe died on my Comp 305 H, there was shiny stuff in the lifter gallery.  Lobe was ground down considerably, and the base of the lifter was chewed off about .200"

Debate was should I pull the engine and clean it out?, or swap cams and go?.

Swapped cams, and still running after 600+ miles.  My Ross pistons are noiser I have noticed though, more "piston slap" noise, but they are known for that.

[BrianShaughnessy]

the quality of hyd lifters has suffered due to 1 factory going out of business & a second having a fire around the same time which overloaded the last factory , I have lost more cams recently then ever before , so probably the lifter failed first

Yup.   What he said.

What kind of oil did you use?     There's a lot of talk about additives packages and stuff over the last couple years.   I've been running 15w40 diesel oil.
I took the .509 out and just sold it - nothing wrong with it    I hope the .528 breaks in OK soon enuf. 

[firefighter3931]

When installing new cam & lifters one trick that helps is to assemble the entire valvetrain and torque it down to spec. Then, using your breaker bar....turn the engine over and pay close attention to all the lifters as you're turning over the motor. They must rotate in their bores or you will have problems.....no lifter rotation = wiped cam !

A lot of the cam/lifter failures is also due to poor machining (inadequate crown on the lifter/insufficient taper on the cam lobe) which leads to failure. Use a good diesel rated oil on breakin with a bottle of GM EOS for added protection. 

Ron

[MOPARHOUND!]

Use a good diesel rated oil on breakin with a bottle of GM EOS for added protection. 

Ron

I use a half bottle (4 oz) every oil change now.  Bought at the Chebby dealer parts counter, around $8.99.  Have seen it on line for $4.99.  They pass it of as assembly lube, but it is really Chebbies way of getting what they need back in the oil.  E0S = Engine Oil Supplement.

Really ups the zinc content in the oil, among others.

Also use the Rotella 15w-40 popular with diesel truck owners.  Available at Wal-Mart, and auto parts stores.

[TylerCharger69]

Moparhound....I carefully inspected the camshaft, of course, before installation.   (checking for cracks, scarring,  possibility of being dropped during shipment, etc)  and all was good.   Upon examining the lifters,  they show no signs of wear.   Still pretty smooth contact point.  This was NOT the fuel pump eccentric by the way... I wish it was!!!  One would think I would find evidence somewhere in the engine.  The lifter valley is clean,  the oil pan  is clean,  oil filter and oil pump are clean, and behind the timing cover is clean.   Not much left to tear down other than pulling pistons.   I yanked the heads off   just to get a look-see,  and no scarring  and I can still see cross-hatch pattern in the cylinder walls.   I'm starting to think  that the camshaft had a soft spot, or something...about all I can come up with anyway,   but I'm going to go with the Engle K-54 stick.    I'll  put it back together Saturday morning  and take it out for a good  "cam break in"  and see what happens I guess.   I normally use Castrol GTX 10w-40   and in the summertime  I use 20w-50.   I'ts been a good oil for me throughout all my cars and years.   (In  case someone asked if I use Pennzoil...lol....NOT!!!)   Oh...and Lucas oil stabilizer as well.    My pushrods are all still straight,   no damage to rocker arms, or shafts....Hell....I dunno.....lmao