1969 Dodge Charger 18-spline Hemi 4-speed conversion.

[tdmoparguy]

I have a 1969 Dodge Charger 440 automatic that I'm going to convert to a 4-speed, I already have an 18-spline transmission that came out of a '69 Charger R/T 440 car. My questions are what components do I need that are 18-spline specific, which clutch diameter is the best choice 10.5" versus 11" (I'm not worried about originality, more performance and reliability), I plan on using a blowproof bellhousing, what all does it require extra,  what parts are best to buy new versus used besides the obvious like clutch etc..
Right now it's a worn out old 440 in it and I'm wanting to go ahead and get it converted to 4-speed, disc brakes, Dana 60 rear, then I plan on building a hot stroked 440 for it.
Thank you,
Tom Dooley

[fy469rtse]

Why not brand new, have a look at McCloud racing bolt in 5 speed
no hacking of cross member, will allow you to run extra gear , over drive , so you will have decent gear ratio in diff,
modern internals ,
making it shift like a modern car ,

[Ghoste]

Obviously the clutch disc needs to be for the 18 spline.  Other than that you go with the same stuff as for a 23 spline.  You are limited in blowproof bellhousings today especially when it comes to clutch diameter and flywheel.  A 143 tooth flywheel that takes a 10.5 clutch with the Quicktime bell should work.  I believe if you check Mancinis website it will indicate that I am wrong but if you talk to the techs at Quicktime and Centerforce they will both back up what I say.  Brewers and Passon tend to just deal in stock stuff so I didn't get any concrete answers there.  Those three things are the parts you need new and personally I would want a new shifter as well.  The rest you can find good used and you can easily convert your automatic crossmember to four speed style.

[tdmoparguy]

Yeah I've read that the same thing. Passon wanted to sell me a Lakewood with the 11" clutch setup, which I swear I read somewhere that the 10.5" is the better one. I've read the crossmember is easy to convert but never found out how. Has anybody ran and had any luck with Brewer's Repop Aluminum bellhousings?

[Ghoste]

I don't know that the 10.5 is better per se, just better availability.  Big difference between a blowproof and an aluminum repop though.  Just my opinion but if you plan to do a concours correct oem restoration then a factory bell is the way to go, if you plan to do a stroker 440 and use the car then a blowproof is the only thing to consider.  Tons of folks with four speeds and aluminum or cast iron bells on the streets and this forum and they will disagree but if you have ever seen a single clutch explosion you'll understand my position.

[six-tee-nine]

I think the OP already has a trans....

If you dont care about originaltity then you can buy a scattershield from various vendors like fi Lakewood. OEM correct for 69 would be 11" bell with 143 tooth flywheel just make sure you buy a clutch that fits your 18 spline input shaft and has the same diameter as your flywheel.
another thing is the hole in your auto crank. you might need to drill or ream that to fit the pilot bushing (or pilot bearing).
You need a 4 speed crossmember but its possible to convert a auto one into a manual one, might wanna do a search on that subject because there is a write up about it here.
You need a 4 speed hump wich is just weld in place to the floor an enlarge the hole in the floor. Almost any Mopar vendor sells these.
Then there's the shifter part : console or not is the culprit there..... consoles, braces and top plates can be bought new but cost alot of coin. Also invest in a driveshaft loop wich is cheap insurance, I myself like the US Cartool design.

[tdmoparguy]

Yeah I've already got the transmission. Just trying to figure out all the 18-spline specific stuff before I start spending a small fortune for all of it. I don't care about originality either.

[Ghoste]

And I'm not certain, but my understanding is that the Lakewood bell being offered now is actually a pickup application that is a kind of generic Mopar one.  It'll fit, but you may have to hammer some sheet metal here and there. 

[tdmoparguy]

Yeah from what I've read the QuickTime is the one to go with.

[Rolling_Thunder]

quicktime (now lakewood) only fits a 10.5" disc

[tdmoparguy]

That it does.

[Troy]

From what I remember... the 11" flywheel and disc is actually not quite 11" and the 10.5" really doesn't give up much surface area. The 10.5" is lighter as well so it seems to make sense to just use the smaller stuff. I use factory parts though so my Chargers all have 11". BUT that's the key - you're clutch linkage (z-bar, fork, rods, etc.) all need to be "matched" to the bell housing/flywheel/clutch. Since you're main concern is a blow proof bell then you need to find parts designed to work with whichever one of those you choose. There's a variety of clutches to fit either size so getting enough "grip" shouldn't be an issue.

Troy

[tdmoparguy]

That's what I've read and understood so far. I am under the impression that the stock z bar etc.. will work with the QuickTime bellhousing.

[Charger4404spd]

I purchased a used Lakewood scattershield off of racingjunk.com.
The install went ok EXCEPT........ only after I got everything together and started to adjust the clutch linkage realized something was wrong. Out comes the tranny and shield. Found out the scattershield had a different pivot bracket. I took the one out of the factory bellhousing and compared the two. There was a difference that altered the angle of the pivot. After reassembly the factory pivot bracket worked. Just something to keep in mind. Would have saved me a ton of work if I had known.

[timmycharger]

I purchased a used Lakewood scattershield off of racingjunk.com.
The install went ok EXCEPT........ only after I got everything together and started to adjust the clutch linkage realized something was wrong. Out comes the tranny and shield. Found out the scattershield had a different pivot bracket. I took the one out of the factory bellhousing and compared the two. There was a difference that altered the angle of the pivot. After reassembly the factory pivot bracket worked. Just something to keep in mind. Would have saved me a ton of work if I had known.

Interesting! Im also using a used Lakewood scattershield and had some Z bar issues. Im going with the 143 tooth Flywheel on my car, and after mocking up the shield and transmission, the "stock" location of the ball pivot bracket was way off, looks like who every owned this shield before me had it in a B body as well as the fabbed bracket they welded on repositioned the bar much better. I have to weld that bracket a little better than what it currently looks like, but it will work. In the picture you can see the skinnier bracket welded on and the ball stud poking out. I think I may have to shorten the bar by about a 1/2 inch as well. People are saying I may have to do somethign to the body seam in the tunnel but it looks very close. 

[Charger-Bodie]

I have a Lakewood on my 68 and the pivot mount was right on. The firewall seam did need to be trimmed on my car,but only the passenger side. Starter mounting is a pita.

[Charger4404spd]

Hey Timmy I am referring to the fork pivot inside the housing, not the ball pivot for the z-bar.

[tdmoparguy]

So have any of you guys used the QuickTime bellhousing?

[timmycharger]

Hey Timmy I am referring to the fork pivot inside the housing, not the ball pivot for the z-bar.

Ha! gotcha! havnt crossed that bridge yet, I do have the one that came on the shield as well as a stock one, I hope that all works out.

I have a Lakewood on my 68 and the pivot mount was right on. The firewall seam did need to be trimmed on my car,but only the passenger side. Starter mounting is a pita.

Did you have any issues with the z bar on yours? how about the body seam in the tunnel area?

[Charger-Bodie]

Firewall seam (tunnel area) needed trimmed off about 1/2 way. Z bar stuff was right on.