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guys, help, 1972 dodge charger

Started by sawyer440rt, February 26, 2015, 11:53:59 AM

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Pete in NH

Sawyer,

Hope you are feeling better. From the additional pictures you sure have your work cut out for you. It's going to be like eating an elephant - one bite at a time.

On the brakes, look back through this thread and look for my and others suggestions on what to replace. Also, since that car has seen a lot of moisture check the steel brake line tubing carefully. Check out Rock Auto at rockauto.com/ you can get some great prices on parts with careful shopping, just watch how the shipping charges add up.

On the body surface rust- since you're getting into the car restoration business with perhaps two cars your going to find a good air compressor very handy. Get some suggestions from guys here and get the biggest one you can afford.  I would tackle one panel on the car at a time. Get a decent D/A sander, 80 grit paper and strip one panel at a time and put it in a good epoxy primer. That will keep things stable until you get back to that panel for final body work.   

ODZKing

And if I am seeing this right, looks like a 73-4 grille on the passenger side there.

Pete in NH

One thing I forgot to mention is to find a copy of the original Dodge factory service manual. It will be invaluable to you as you work on the car. These cars are full of 40 year old systems many of today's mechanics don't really understand and you have to become knowledgeable about them. The factory manual contains information about everything in the car including electrical diagrams. don't waste your time or money on things like Chilton's or Haynes books get the original Chrysler manuals. You can often find original paper copies or DVD copies on EBay.

lukedukem

While your sick, here is a thread from chargd72 to read, it has some good DIY stuff. I'm sure if you have some ?s he can help as well as others
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,79292.0.html

Luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

polywideblock

I know the car has rust  :yesnod:  but looking at that "paint" I'd swear that its not surface rust its sunburned paint   (we get it a lot) did car sit in a carport or in the open  for sometime before the barn  :scratchchin:


  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE


ACUDANUT

 Sawyer, I might have a complete floor for you (free) you just pay the shipping.  It has holes from the spot welds that the factory used to install it.  I can take pic's and send them to you.
It's the least I can do for being rude/judgmental earlier on. Carry on Devil Dog.

lukedukem

Quote from: sawyer440rt on March 03, 2015, 01:38:45 PM
Guys: update: Luke dukes, lol, thx for posting all my pictures bro, you are awesome, thx again for all your help again luke. ODZKing, I don't know if you saw my previous pics in the forum, but I got the original title with it, it's a one owner, numbers matching car, with a 106,000 original miles on it, and it is a 1972 THX to all these awesome members helping me decode it. not to bad I guess for 400 bucks. My whole family has the fever, and are already fighting over it, lol, they are starting to argue over paint schemes to,  lol, yes im feeling better, not much, but better, so I went to Sears and bought a craftmans 150 psi air compressor to get going on the sanding for primer. It even came with a paint gun, an air gun, and a small set of tools, I hope 150 psi is enough, my buddy said it should be. And it was on sale, plus I got my military discount, so it wasn't bad at all. Pete in nh, thx bro for all your advice to, hope I don't forget no one, if I do, I am sorry. Polywide, I do not know the answer to that ? You asked me, I am sorry, I just know from the vin everyone helped me decode that it's a metallic metal flake gold with black accents, if that helps out for your ?, and I asked mr. Russell this morning if it's ever been repainted when we had coffee this morning, he said no, sorry bro if that does not help, when the taxes come in, im buying a ton more stuff for the charger, including the Hobart 140 welder that was suggested, new floor pans, things like that, and all the brake stuff to make it stop the right way, LOLOLOL, mr Russell said his wife loved the gold carpet, but he couldn't stand it, too funny I think. Any ways guys, I will keep you up to date as much as I can, thx for everything everybody. Mike

Mike,
     IMO, before spending too much cash on the welder and floor plans or other stuff, buy the brake stuff first, unless you have enough to spring for all of it. get that thing stopping good and also just in case you run into more issues while addressing the brakes, all your money won't be tied up in a welder and floor pans. depending on MR. Russell's expectations, after the brakes and freshen up the interior, I'd go take him on that ride. ultimately its your car but i think having all the original stuff, the gold with white vinyl top would look good.

luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

ODZKing

Quote from: sawyer440rt on March 03, 2015, 01:38:45 PM
ODZKing, I don't know if you saw my previous pics in the forum, but I got the original title with it, it's a one owner, numbers matching car, with a 106,000 original miles on it, and it is a 1972 THX to all these awesome members helping me decode it. not to bad I guess for 400 bucks.  Mike
Yeah, I did that is why I was surprised to see a 73 grille on it.  This pic.
But now that I look at it more closely ... the headlamp door is open and the shadows playing tricks.

sawyer440rt

Audanut, I will take you up on that, my email is sawyer440rt@lowcountry.com i will be looking forward to your pictures of the pan, and THX yourself Devil Dog, OORAH!!! Luke, I don't worry about money, I can afford it bro, so do the brakes first, got it, thx buddy, will do. Luke, I think the gold would look great back on it, thx. King, no worries bro, trust me, I had no idea what it was until all these guys helped me out. Im the kind of person that when I do something, I see it thru. From the way mr. Russell talks, im not really even worried about the 69 anymore cause I know it's gonna be mine, and he is always stopping by for coffee and a chat, one cool older man if you ask me. Plus, he saw the floor and made a comment about getting that fixed because he said that might be unsafe. I want to at least put them facing each other and take pictures of them both for you guys, but Plz give me time, im working as fast as I can, but I want the car to be safe and that big hole scares me, so I really want that fixed. Plus my son doesn't want me to touch it without him, plus, im still learning to, it's hard to watch a bunch of utube videos and take notes, lol, but that's been a big help to. I could pay someone to do everything for me, but that wouldn't be no fun, and me and my son haven't been this close in years, patience team, im trying my heart out, thx again for everything team, cya soon.

MxRacer855


Chargerguy74

Quote from: ACUDANUT on March 03, 2015, 02:03:16 PM
Sawyer, I might have a complete floor for you (free) you just pay the shipping.  It has holes from the spot welds that the factory used to install it.  I can take pic's and send them to you.
It's the least I can do for being rude/judgmental earlier on. Carry on Devil Dog.

:2thumbs:
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

sawyer440rt

SOA PUPPY, HELP GUYS. Mr. Russell came over tthis afterrnoon, we had our coffee,  swapped a couple military stories  and he wanted to hear it run again, i handed him the keys, we walked out, the phone rang as we walked out the door, my daughter came out and said, phone dad, it was my buddy, anyways to make a long story short, got off the phone, went back outside, he was gone, I mean he just left, don't know why, anyways, I took the keys out the ignition, went inside, tried to call him no answer, so fast forward, my buddy says, im on my way to see the car, is that ok, i said sure, 15 minutes later, he arrives, we have a beer and i proceed to tell him about the 72 and how i got it, didn't say nothing about the 69, i ain't stupid, so he was like let's hear that bad boy run, stuck the key in, and it turns over but won't start now, nothing, and it used to fire up with ease after the tune up, WHAT GIVES???, so im looking at the car with my buddy in the dark now, and I took a plug out, and I don't even have any spark no more, WT HECK??? and I can't even get ahold of mr. Russell to see if he did something wrong, any ideas guys, PLEASE HELP!!!!.

ACUDANUT

If no spark, change out the ECU (20.00).  That's weird Mr. ? just vanished. You might go to see him tomorrow.
If you have spark put a little gas down the carb. Your fuel pump may be going out.

XH29N0G

See what others say.  I would think since you don't have spark, then that is one lead.  I would work backwards from the coil using a multimeter, I suppose you could work forwards from the key too.  See what others suggest.  I am sure it will work out.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

Chargerguy74

How long were you on the phone for?
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

sawyer440rt

Audanut, I appreciate the quick response my brother dog, now, teach me Plz bro, what is an ecu, what does it do, how much time does it take to get out, is it big or small, what color is it? where on the motor is it??? what does it look like??????, thx for everything, signed, lost in mopar, lol, and I still can't get ahold of mr. Russell, and it bothers me so im heading over there in a few. Thx, NVM, mr. R just called me his son broke down and he went to go help, I asked him what happened to the charger, he said it didn't start for him either, hmmmm, is it possible that when i shut it off earlier that ecu you mentioned went bad, do they give a warning??? Do they just break like that, or just quit like that??? Any help guys would be much appreciated, thx, Mike.

Chargerguy74

Don't mind my question. All is good on the relationship front it appears.
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

lukedukem

Quote from: XH29N0G on March 03, 2015, 07:57:42 PM
See what others say.  I would think since you don't have spark, then that is one lead.  I would work backwards from the coil using a multimeter, I suppose you could work forwards from the key too.  See what others suggest.  I am sure it will work out.

I would start at the coil as well. See if you have voltage. Here's what an ecu looks like in the link below. You could try to unplug it and check and clean connectors and try to fire it up

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=114588.0

Luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

sawyer440rt

I don't see that on this car, it has a coil, points and condenser, according what i just read online, the ecu replaced the points and condensor, is this true, or did I read it wrong???

Charger-Bodie

68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

lukedukem

Do you have a multimeter. You can check voltage at the coil

Luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

sawyer440rt

Yes luke, I bought a multimeter, cost me plenty, lol, what do I do next?

sawyer440rt

Charger-bodie, what the heck is that? Ballistic resistor???

lukedukem

Quote from: sawyer440rt on March 03, 2015, 08:45:15 PM
Yes luke, I bought a multimeter, cost me plenty, lol, what do I do next?

I believe you can put the red probe on the positive Sid elf coil and ground the black probe, then have someone crank the motor to see if you getting voltage to the coil. If so, take the plug off the coil and put the red probe in it and crank again to see if voltage is coming out of the coil.

Quote from: sawyer440rt on March 03, 2015, 08:49:39 PM
Charger-bodie, what the heck is that? Ballistic resistor???

That should be on the firewall passenger side. White thing with wires coming out

Luke
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC