For Sale 1969 Daytona 49,871 org miles all org sheet metal exc. condition

[customshop1]

this car is not fake if thats what you are stating. i have had 2  true mopar experts look it over  and confirm it all.

[6bblgt]

No one is disputing the car.  Your evaluation of its condition as "EXCELLENT" has come under scrutiny.  Considering it sounds like a work in progress.
Could you provide pictures of the Fender tag & VIN stampings on the engine/transmission?  & VIN on the spare b'cast?

Welcome to Dodge-Charger  
..... the prior post(er) has a picture of a clone Daytona & "It's fake." in his signature line.  Why he deleted his comment, I don't know.

[Mytur Binsdirti]

I am interested in hearing what anyone has to say about actual real world value on this car.....
I looked at it in person yesterday and here are my observations of it.
Nice car with a few issues to be called a #1, top shelf, restored to today's standards. For instance, paint is about 15 years old and it was stored in a cold IL building. There are many blisters in the paint, one buff thru in the top of the fender and a bit of bubbling on the lower quarter. It has had some repair in the lower quarters behind the tires and the rear corners have bondo also. Definitely original metal but I did not lift the trunk mat out or the carpet to confirm no rust repair there, but did see some slight pitting in the trunk floor but not major.
Bottom of the car has surface rust on all of the bare metal parts due to storage on a concrete floor in a cold building.
Has the correct rear jack but the scissors jack is not correct.
Motor is numbers match and had full VIN stamped in it, trans is a bit of a mystery as it has a partial VIN and starts with 0B instead of 9B but the rest of the VIN matches and has the correct 1969 440 HP PK number stamped in it. Could be a factory mistake?
Original fender tag is still there, the build sheet they have is not for this car. They have ownership history back to new with copies of titles, original loan paper work and a Galen decode of the fender tag but I did not see him doing a visual inspection of the car or any paperwork for that.
As it sits, it is a great "driver" quality car that could be driven and enjoyed, but would require a complete nut and bolt resto to be show winner. Paint is a 10 footer with the blisters but it does shine, looks like a single stage enamel job from the 1990's.
Interior is old and John is working to install new seat covers and door panels now. Top of door pads are nice but yellowed with age.
Assuming they can get it running with no issues and road worthy, what do you think it is worth? and what would it be worth in today's market if it had a fresh restoration to say concourse standards not OE standards.

I made an offer for it before seeing it for a customer and after seeing it in person, I feel the offer was about right.

Mark

The description sounds pretty much like my most recent Daytona. Mileage was in the mid 50's, original sheetmetal, no rot, numbers matching, 3rd daytona built, PS, PDB, auto, console, light package, R4 red. I considered it to be a 10 footer as well. When it was finished, it definately not the level of Mopar John's or Geno's cars, but it was a very, very nice car. I bought it for 100 & put in another 45 into it, doing most all of the work myself, except for body & paint work. Selling price was just over 155 almost 2 years ago.

Do I think that I could have gotten more at the time and do I think that it has appreciated since then? I really don't think so.

So, based on all that, in my opinion, this green car should be valued in the range of 100K.

[customshop1]

http://classiccars.com/listings/view/532832/1969-dodge-charger-for-sale-in-arlington-texas-76017

here is a Similar car for $175,000  Not sure of the org sheet metal or  what condition the car is really in   but I feel like this car will be  close the
this caliber once I get the int.  back together. 

[Mytur Binsdirti]

http://classiccars.com/listings/view/532832/1969-dodge-charger-for-sale-in-arlington-texas-76017

here is a Similar car for $175,000  Not sure of the org sheet metal or  what condition the car is really in   but I feel like this car will be  close the
this caliber once I get the int.  back together.  

He can ask whatever he wants for as long as he wants to, but what it will sell for is another story. But take a good long look at the pictures of that red car. No offense, but bringing the green car to the caliber of that car is nothing to strive for.

[held1823]

The description sounds pretty much like my most recent Daytona.... I bought it for 100 & put in another 45 into it, doing most all of the work myself, except for body & paint work. Selling price was just over 155 almost 2 years ago. Do I think that I could have gotten more at the time and do I think that it has appreciated since then? I really don't think so. So, based on all that, in my opinion, this green car should be valued in the range of 100K.

mark, are you at 100k, based on someone spending another 10k or more to have the work done elsewhere, whereas you were able to do it on your own? you've been around these cars for a long time, and your last experience with selling one is the best argument so far for setting a dollar value. my only question would be, with equal cars sitting side by side, which color would sell easier and/or for more money - red or green?

i am curious why so many think this car needs restored. ten footers make great drivers, which is hopefully what the next owner has in mind to do with the car. tear it apart when it needs it, but in the meantime enjoy the heck out of it.

[hemi68charger]

...

i am curious why so many think this car needs restored. ten footers make great drivers, which is hopefully what the next owner has in mind to do with the car. tear it apart when it needs it, but in the meantime enjoy the heck out of it.

I think Mark's point is a "great driver" doesn't constitute a $150K selling price. Some people loath the green and prefer the red.... It's a case where the planets all line up and that one person who likes green cars is willing to pay the asking price..... I've got experience on the other side of the coin... I asked a price, and didn't get it and that's when everyone thought my price was inline with the car's condition (we are still in a different time than 2007). If it does have issues with the paint, that's a hard one to fix without doing the whole thing. And if done, by all means John, don't seal up the rear valance seams to the end caps.... That's a red flag to any Charger guru that body works been done by someone who doesn't know Chargers all.

Looking forward in seeing what happens to the car. Hopefully it'll see the road with the new owner.......

[Redbird]

I'd be happy if this sold for a bunch of money. Shoot, I want the Vit-C Superbird that the guy spiffing up and is working to flip to sell for a bunch. If the White rust bucket Superbird that needs concrete blocks to hold up the back sells for a bunch, my guess is that my cars and parts will be worth more too.

As far as original colors of cars. To some people it makes a difference, to others not. I'd rather have a Red, Orange or Black car. Personally, I could stand this Green car, but the color wouldn't be my first choice, which is all personal opinion. I wouldn't pay a dime more for a Turquoise car. I don't want a White or Yellow car. A Blue/Black car is a rolling bruise to me. I like Blue/White cars. I get that someone would pay more for a Turquoise car, but there is a smaller group of people that will pay extra for a Turquoise Wing car than just want a Wing car. If a seller can find that person that wants a certain color, great, harder group to find though and it eliminates other potential buyers.

[Daytona R/T SE]

..... the prior post(er) has a picture of a clone Daytona & "It's fake." in his signature line.  Why he deleted his comment, I don't know.

I deleted my comments because I didn't want them to be taken the wrong way.

Instead...

My signature line was misinterpreted.

[Redbird]

Sports Car Market Magazine has a good article on Capitol Gains this month. Not everything there, but a good read none the less.

My first thought on reading it was Capitol Gains on a Hemi wing car make selling one held for a long time problematic, i.e. gain over $200,000/$250,000. Granted, selling one is not a bad problem to have.

It almost makes selling a 440 car more attractive.

Before someone says "I'll only take cash". Consider that the next guy is not going to want to pay the Cap Gains on your appreciation plus his too.

I bought some parts a couple of years ago from a guy who didn't pay his Cap Gains on a car. He had to sell a whole bunch of his stuff to pay for his unreported income, compounding his problems the more he sold. Man was he in a mess with the IRS.

[ACUDANUT]

Any pic's of the bubbles in the paint ?

[charger_fan_4ever]

Sports Car Market Magazine has a good article on Capitol Gains this month. Not everything there, but a good read none the less.

My first thought on reading it was Capitol Gains on a Hemi wing car make selling one held for a long time problematic, i.e. gain over $200,000/$250,000. Granted, selling one is not a bad problem to have.

It almost makes selling a 440 car more attractive.

Before someone says "I'll only take cash". Consider that the next guy is not going to want to pay the Cap Gains on your appreciation plus his too.

I bought some parts a couple of years ago from a guy who didn't pay his Cap Gains on a car. He had to sell a whole bunch of his stuff to pay for his unreported income, compounding his problems the more he sold. Man was he in a mess with the IRS.

In the U.S you have to report capital gains on the sale of a personal vehicule ?

[held1823]

I think Mark's point is a "great driver" doesn't constitute a $150K selling price.

exactly what i said, troy. you're mixing my musing from the second paragraph with the numbers from the first one. the car does not HAVE to be restored to enjoy it for a long, long time is my thought, not mark's. he'd have the paint stripped off it within a week, lol.

$100k is what mark said he paid for his last daytona. he then spent 45k on it, and sold it for 155k, netting 10k.
mark then pegged the green one at 100k, more or less the same starting point as his red car. restored to the same level that mark's car sold at, the green one is surely worth no less, and possible a bit more due to its somewhat rarer color, so $155k is not out of the question.

what i was asking is, did he feel the 10k profit he turned, while doing a lot of the work himself, would be eaten up by having it done out of pocket.

[hemi68charger]

..

exactly what i said, troy. .

[Mytur Binsdirti]

I think Mark's point is a "great driver" doesn't constitute a $150K selling price.

exactly what i said, troy. you're mixing my musing from the second paragraph with the numbers from the first one. the car does not HAVE to be restored to enjoy it for a long, long time is my thought, not mark's. he'd have the paint stripped off it within a week, lol.

$100k is what mark said he paid for his last daytona. he then spent 45k on it, and sold it for 155k, netting 10k.
mark then pegged the green one at 100k, more or less the same starting point as his red car. restored to the same level that mark's car sold at, the green one is surely worth no less, and possible a bit more due to its somewhat rarer color, so $155k is not out of the question.

what i was asking is, did he feel the 10k profit he turned, while doing a lot of the work himself, would be eaten up by having it done out of pocket.

Had I farmed out the whole project, the additional labor cost would have cost far more than the 10 grand that I made on the car. Hell, if you count the hours I put into it, I probably worked at minimum wage! Color is subjective to the value of the car and personally, I like the green better than the R4 red & if I were in the market for one now, that may sway me to spend a few bucks more. i agree that a 10 footer makes a great driver, but as Troy said, if the quarter panel end caps are filled in, that sends up a big red flag. The mistake I made was making my 10 footer into a full blown restoration and not enjoying it for what it was.

Does anyone know of any other Daytonas that have sold in the past year or two? Advertised prices on these vehicles is all over the place and that red one featured in the link above has enough wrong with it that it just screams el-cheapo "restoration" to me. As such, his asking price is a joke.

But, since I haven't seen any other selling prices divulged, I'm just giving my 2 cents on the price of a car that I bought in what appears to be similar condition not that long ago. The only real indication of pricing is by seeing what they actually do sell for and I'm at 100 large for a driver quality ten footer & 155 large for a trailer queen. No offense to the owner and seller, but 150 for a driver quality Daytona is just not realistic.

[Mytur Binsdirti]

I am interested in hearing what anyone has to say about actual real world value on this car.....

For instance, paint is about 15 years old and it was stored in a cold IL building. There are many blisters in the paint, one buff thru in the top of the fender and a bit of bubbling on the lower quarter. It has had some repair in the lower quarters behind the tires and the rear corners have bondo also.

Bottom of the car has surface rust on all of the bare metal parts due to storage on a concrete floor in a cold building.

After reading that description, I would say that the body on my car was in better shape.

[johntpr]

Anyone else know of a full-VIN stamped Daytona engine?   I don't.

My thoughts exactly.  



I would put the value at 70K and have to assume the engine is not what that car was born with.  The stampings on the engine and tranny should match.  The engine would not be a full VIN and the tranny a partial VIN, at least in my expereience with 440 Daytonas.

[moparnation74]

One persons ten footer may be another persons restoration. 

[hemi-hampton]

I am interested in hearing what anyone has to say about actual real world value on this car.....
I looked at it in person yesterday and here are my observations of it.
Nice car with a few issues to be called a #1, top shelf, restored to today's standards. For instance, paint is about 15 years old and it was stored in a cold IL building. There are many blisters in the paint, one buff thru in the top of the fender and a bit of bubbling on the lower quarter. It has had some repair in the lower quarters behind the tires and the rear corners have bondo also. Definitely original metal but I did not lift the trunk mat out or the carpet to confirm no rust repair there, but did see some slight pitting in the trunk floor but not major.
Bottom of the car has surface rust on all of the bare metal parts due to storage on a concrete floor in a cold building.
Has the correct rear jack but the scissors jack is not correct.
Motor is numbers match and had full VIN stamped in it, trans is a bit of a mystery as it has a partial VIN and starts with 0B instead of 9B but the rest of the VIN matches and has the correct 1969 440 HP PK number stamped in it. Could be a factory mistake?
Original fender tag is still there, the build sheet they have is not for this car. They have ownership history back to new with copies of titles, original loan paper work and a Galen decode of the fender tag but I did not see him doing a visual inspection of the car or any paperwork for that.
As it sits, it is a great "driver" quality car that could be driven and enjoyed, but would require a complete nut and bolt resto to be show winner. Paint is a 10 footer with the blisters but it does shine, looks like a single stage enamel job from the 1990's.
Interior is old and John is working to install new seat covers and door panels now. Top of door pads are nice but yellowed with age.
Assuming they can get it running with no issues and road worthy, what do you think it is worth? and what would it be worth in today's market if it had a fresh restoration to say concourse standards not OE standards.

I made an offer for it before seeing it for a customer and after seeing it in person, I feel the offer was about right.

Mark

Whats your Definition of a Concourse Resto & a OE Resto? & what makes them different?  LEON.

[ws23rt]

Anyone else know of a full-VIN stamped Daytona engine?   I don't.]

My thoughts exactly.  

This is new to me.  Is It the case that only partial vins were stamped on Daytona's?---What is the case with C500 engine vin stampings?
My C500 engine has the full vin on it.

[Mytur Binsdirti]

One persons ten footer may be another persons restoration. 

And sometimes one person's restoration turns a car into a ten footer.

[moparnation74]

One persons ten footer may be another persons restoration. 

And sometimes one person's restoration turns a car into a ten footer.

Absolutely

I was referring to keeping it as a driver or having it professionally restored.

[magnumauto]

I am interested in hearing what anyone has to say about actual real world value on this car.....
I looked at it in person yesterday and here are my observations of it.
Nice car with a few issues to be called a #1, top shelf, restored to today's standards. For instance, paint is about 15 years old and it was stored in a cold IL building. There are many blisters in the paint, one buff thru in the top of the fender and a bit of bubbling on the lower quarter. It has had some repair in the lower quarters behind the tires and the rear corners have bondo also. Definitely original metal but I did not lift the trunk mat out or the carpet to confirm no rust repair there, but did see some slight pitting in the trunk floor but not major.
Bottom of the car has surface rust on all of the bare metal parts due to storage on a concrete floor in a cold building.
Has the correct rear jack but the scissors jack is not correct.
Motor is numbers match and had full VIN stamped in it, trans is a bit of a mystery as it has a partial VIN and starts with 0B instead of 9B but the rest of the VIN matches and has the correct 1969 440 HP PK number stamped in it. Could be a factory mistake?
Original fender tag is still there, the build sheet they have is not for this car. They have ownership history back to new with copies of titles, original loan paper work and a Galen decode of the fender tag but I did not see him doing a visual inspection of the car or any paperwork for that.
As it sits, it is a great "driver" quality car that could be driven and enjoyed, but would require a complete nut and bolt resto to be show winner. Paint is a 10 footer with the blisters but it does shine, looks like a single stage enamel job from the 1990's.
Interior is old and John is working to install new seat covers and door panels now. Top of door pads are nice but yellowed with age.
Assuming they can get it running with no issues and road worthy, what do you think it is worth? and what would it be worth in today's market if it had a fresh restoration to say concourse standards not OE standards.

I made an offer for it before seeing it for a customer and after seeing it in person, I feel the offer was about right.

Mark

Whats your Definition of a Concourse Resto & a OE Resto? & what makes them different?   LEON.

To me a concourse resto looks factory but has repo parts used. OE resto looks factory but uses original parts restored correctly and NOS parts.  Honestly, my customer wants a driver not a restored car. He has one of those already.

[Mopar John]

WOW! So many comments on one Daytona!
I just read through from the beginning and would like to add also.
I agree with the CONCOURS and OE definitions but would like to add
that a CONCOURS show normally uses a 1,000 point sheet where OE can be 2,000 to 2,500 points more based on original parts!
I agree with the $100,000 price tag for an OE restoration and maybe more now unless you have a stash of NOS?
The parts are going up and more details are always being added. Things like dip lines on the inner firewall for example!
The F6 is a nice color but with close to 10% of the production and second highest production no premium for me on color.
Matching number motor and trans are a big premium but not as much to a guy buying a driver.
Watch the auctions later this month and you'll really get confused on the CUSTOMS!
In the end you need to know where you want to be and if you can get there with the repairs and parts needed?
MJ

[Q5XX29]

WOW! So many comments on one Daytona!
I just read through from the beginning and would like to add also.
I agree with the CONCOURS and OE definitions but would like to add
that a CONCOURS show normally uses a 1,000 point sheet where OE can be 2,000 to 2,500 points more based on original parts!
I agree with the $100,000 price tag for an OE restoration and maybe more now unless you have a stash of NOS?
The parts are going up and more details are always being added. Things like dip lines on the inner firewall for example!
The F6 is a nice color but with close to 10% of the production and second highest production no premium for me on color.
Matching number motor and trans are a big premium but not as much to a guy buying a driver.
Watch the auctions later this month and you'll really get confused on the CUSTOMS!
In the end you need to know where you want to be and if you can get there with the repairs and parts needed?
MJ

Beautiful Daytona in your avatar. Is that blue or turquoise, and real daytona or clone?