Any still use butyl rubber caulk for windshield install?

[b5blue]

  FSM has glass and pinch weld area caulked to rubber gasket with butyl rubber, It almost worked last time I installed but I got skimpy and didn't use enough.  (70 Charger) It's time for a super redo, new glass and gasket and I'm looking for opinions? The stuff cleans up easy enough so I'm not worried about clean up of excess goo.
  What/how did you do/have done? Tips to make a better job of it? 

[terrible one]

Yep, I used 3M 08509 along the bottom and sides of the windshield channel (body to gasket) and then the entire perimeter of the windshield (glass to gasket) before zipping up the lock strip, and am pleased to say there are no leaks. I also noticed that it kind of creeps/ expands similar to that cheap expanding spray foam. I used just under 2 tubes.

[b5blue]

Thanks! Did you run the butyl in the seam for glass before or after the glass was in? 

[terrible one]

Thanks! Did you run the butyl in the seam for glass before or after the glass was in?  

Glad to help/ share! I did it after the glass was in place but before closing the lock strip. That's why I brought up the "expanding" characteristics of the 08509 because I think that really helps it seal up good. I would say doing it after the glass is in place is a must because you want to be able to lube the gasket channel up to work the glass in it would be working against you and making a mess too I'm thinking

[b5blue]

Got ya! In my search I found several said to lube the glass/rubber seal with window cleaner. I see how you could do that, dry it then add caulk your way. Big help, Thanks again! 

[terrible one]

No problem  Also I'm sure you'll think of it but for sealing the glass to gasket I cut the tip small AND pinched it flat so that I could get under the lip of the gasket/ to the edge of the glass

[tan top]

yeah done the same ,    ,

[b5blue]

The "plan" is 2 tubes this time, one cut tiny like you said and the other cut bigger. I ordered 2 "Bones" for installing, sharp edge plastic bars. 

[tan top]

make sure you have & fit  the correct  revel moulding clips , put a dob of grease inside the clip , it will help the stainless trim slide in / engage  easier , !
run a bead of non hardening glass sealer , where the purple lines are in the below pictures .make sure the windshield gasket in engaged with the three metal tabs in the third picture , then fit gasket . once fitted with a suitable brush & washing up liquid , lightly coat the the edge of the channel on the gasket where the glass is going to slide into . if its the original glass it will be heavy , put a blanket on the hood with a big piece of cardboard &  or cushions , to lay the glass on while getting it into position. with a helper ! with one person each side  
, slide the glass up till it engages with/into the top edge of the gasket channel first , then while the helper is stopping the glass sliding down,
carefully lift the rubber over the glass & adding a bit of pressure as you go , so the glass drops  into into the gasket channel  use ,
plastic filler spreaders & or  windshield plastic push sticks to do this  , do not use any thing metal ! , all the while your helper is pushing the glass up into the top channel (( never / don't push the middle of the glass )). when fitted give the glass a few slap type pushes with the palm of your hand , around the edges of the glass towards the rubber (( don't go mad )) to make sure the glass is correctly seated & aligned in the gasket.
click the seam on the gasket together using a filler spreader or windshield push stick . then pump sealer down between the glass & windshield gasket , will need the correct nozzle or a small thin one . don't go mad as soon as you move the sealer gun with the tip inserted between the glass & gasket along , it squishes excess sealer out .good idea to spray the glass with glass cleaner before you do this stage , will make clean up easier , use plastic spreader to scrape off excess sealer ,  the clean with more of your favourite glass cleaner .
  this job can be done on your own , how I done mine     , but  easier with a helper to lift glass into position &  just to stop the glass slipping down,  especially if your not use to doing this kind of thing everyday  

** having probs with pictures  , watch this space **

[tan top]

pictures , think ive posted these before in the tread on here  

[b5blue]

THANKS VERY MUCH!!!! 

[DC_1]

Great write up!!

[500Jon]

Gold Seal Advice from Gold TOP!!!

[b5blue]

  UPDATE, I bought a new gasket from Van's on eBay. New Precision corp. WCR D715 for 68-70 B Body came in today, 73 bucks and some change shipped. Nice! My new windshield is ready for pickup on Saturday, ordered a new Pilinkington per Bill440R/T's recommendation. (150.00 from Jay @ Autoglass4U...440-429-2222) NAPA has my 2 tubes of 3M Bedding & Glazing Compound # 55135-08509 for pickup so I'm ready to round up everything!   

[b5blue]

  Glass/gasket out yesterday, cleaning up now in preparation. A close inspection of the new gasket reviled nubs from manufacturing INSIDE the seams that must be trimmed off so the seams "slot is flat" along the pinch weld. More obvious is some "flash" where the molds meet in the injection molding and nubs not trimmed flush along the very bottom of the gasket where it will sit in front of the dash. Take time to inspect every detail of your new gasket very closely, any of these untrimmed items would result in potential leaks!
  I found the glass removes very easily if your not saving the gasket, after removing the trim unzip the the gasket all around and run a razor knife (Like you use for cutting sheet rock.) between the glass and gasket. It separates the glass and scores/cuts through the inside of the glass seam on the gasket. This lets you just peel away the entire top of the gasket. The glass will easily release and can be removed by tilting the top edge forward and just pulling it up and out.  If I ever have to redo again I'll gladly sacrifice a gasket it was so easy.       

[b5blue]

  Well the glass is in, I'll let it sit overnight before bedding the gasket to glass and zipping up the seams. Time to let things adjust to their new home. I used an entire tube on just the gasket to pinch weld, bunches on the bottom as outlined and even a small bead inside the gasket channel. I worked the beads and bottom channel well with a small hunk of cardboard to smooth and get good adhesion to the steel contact areas.
  I cleaned the new gasket with 91% alcohol after cutting out the nubs and flash from molding process and found the alcohol works for installing the glass as a quick drying harmless lube. My son and I could not get a good start on inserting the glass top first, it was real awkward. Going bottom first as I've done in the past worked better for us. This time I found you can get the gasket to kind of toggle by pressing on it from the inside. Only the top corners were tough to stretch the gasket to the edge of the glass.
  Thanks very much for the info tan top and terrible one!  I really piled the goo on the bottom area and not that much has blobbed out yet. More will come when I zip it up but clearly I'd never really had it bedded like this before.         

[terrible one]

Glad to hear it went well!  I started with the bottom like you and yes the top corners are the toughest part IMO. Have fun, its a downhill slide from here, and it sure is satisfying to get it squeaky clean and enjoy the crystal clear view before taking it out to start collecting bugs and chips 

[tan top]

good you got it sorted   

[b5blue]

  I finished as you all recommended and finally past a "wet check".  It's a really big deal for me to get this over with, I'm ready to finish installing the cluster after a major dash/front lights harness change out.
  Passing wet check today let me finally order seat covers just in time to save 25% at Legendary Interiors. (Last day of sale in the last hour to order!)  I doubt I'd finished in time without the input guys!