Ammeter Wiring Removal '69

[Skull-1]

Thanks guys.  I will get right on it.

Not a fan of the larger alternator....

[Hop Head]

Quick question for Pete. Thanks for the step by step, I'm gearing up for the same mod. I'll also be doing the voltmeter conversion. The question I have is, I'll be installing a 120 amp Alt, do I need to increase the fuse value. 

Russ

[Pete in NH]

Yes, the fuse in the alternator circuit should be something bigger to handle the 120 amp alternator. As far as I know the Maxi-Fuses only go up to 80 amps. Check with Dino, I think he used a ANL type fuse and they may go higher in value. I would say you would want a fuse in the 100 to 120 amp range. I would go with the 100 myself. Also, you need to increase the wire gauge of the #8 black wire mentioned to a black #6 gauge wire and re-size the ring terminals to handle #6 wire. You could also use a #10 gauge fusible link with the #6 wire but, I'm not a big fan of fusible links.

[Dino]

I do have an ANL fuse.  They go up to a whopping 750 amps.  This is a nice deal for 2 gold plated 100 amp fuses:  http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-ANL100-2-Pack-Fuses-Plated/dp/B005EUTA3E

All you need is a fuse holder and there's several to choose from.  I got this one and mounted it to the underside of the battery tray: http://www.cloud-parts.com/product-p/fh-anb740n0n02.htm

[Dino]

Thanks guys.  I will get right on it.

Not a fan of the larger alternator....

You will be when the wiring is up to par.  Ever since I upgraded to a larger alternator I can have all my lights on and wipers running at idle without anything dimming or slowing down.  With the stock alternator I would have to turn my wipers off when coming to a stop because they would start skipping or simply stop moving.  When I upgraded my wiring I also did the headlight relay mod and now my lights are as bright as a new car's.

[Mr. Big]

Just read your thread, I'm a couple of weeks behind.  For a great source of information on Mopar electric circuits, go to Madelectrical.com. The tech page has an in-depth  article on bypassing the ammeter.  Call and ask for Mark, he's extremely knowledgable and will take the time to educate.

[Hop Head]

OK, I need one more sanity check before I order my wiring stuff.  I'll be installing the 120 amp alternator from Mancini. And doing the volt meter conversion. Here is the wiring updates, please let me know if everything is correct.
1. Run a #6 wire from Alt to Starter Relay, with 100A fuse
2. Run a #6 wire from Battery to Starter Relay with 100A fuse
3. Run a #8 wire from Relay to welded splice in dash harness with fuse (not sure of rating here)

Questions:
1. Do I need to run a wire from the welded splice back to the relay.  If so what gauge wire.
2. How should I connect my wire to the welded splice. 

Let me know if this looks OK to you guys. And again, thanks for all you input!

[Dino]

Should be sufficient to run the 100A fuse only on the battery to starter relay wire.  At least that's how I've done mine.  If I'm wrong someone please correct me so I can go fix mine.   

50A for the fuse from relay to splice.  I have the holder mounted to the firewall right above the bulkhead connector. 

You do not need to run a wire back to the relay.  Just a wire from relay to fuse and from fuse to splice.

To do it right, remove the original butt splice, remove the wire you no longer need and add the new 8 gauge wire too the bundle.  I forget what size butt connector you need, I think I used an 8 gauge connector.  Clean and tin the wires, secure the connector, solder the connector to the wires.  Wrap in heat resistant electrical tape, I like the self cling tape.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

No need to use a fused wire from the battery to the relay. The original battery lead is just fine.

Dino's advice is right on target. These are all high current connections and a bit of solder on any crimped lugs is a good idea. On the splice joint connection Dino's advice to solder it with the new #8 wire is the right way to do it. Also, you want to remove two wires from the splice joint, the black wire that went to the ammeter and the wire that went through the bulk head connector pin to the original alternator output. On a stock wiring harness its a #10 black wire.

[Hop Head]

Thanks guys.  Do you know of a good wire supplier for 6 gauge GXL wire. I've been looking around the web, with no luck so far. I might call Ron Francis to see if they wire by the foot.  Thanks again, and I'm sure I'll have a few more questions once I dive in!   

[Dino]

Contact these guys if they don't have what you need on their web site.  They may be able to make it anyway. https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_22&zenid=7563f2f2a014933e734b5b4983404e22

Throught the custom cable link you can assemble them as you want them.  I had them do all my cables and it turned out great.  I just used the drop down boxes to tell them what I wanted in color, length, gauge, terminals. 

[Skull-1]

Just an update.  Got the Ammeter wiring spliced in.  No more ameter or loose ends.   Car runs great.

Now to get everything in and under the dash replaced and properly connected.   This is looking like another multi-year project.  

[Chargen69]