Hydraulic clutch actuator

[COKE]

i would like to change the manual clutch actuator on my 833 for an hydraulic one.
I have seen some of you are using  hydraulic actuators parts from Mc Leod ,but are you using a  complete kit for Mopar or you are combinating divorced parts?
Are you using  the throw out bearing kind or  slave cilinder?

If someone can to give me a list with the parts required for the conversion would be nice.
Regards.

[Rolling_Thunder]

Well I know Keisler seels a complete hydraulic clutch kit...      probably the easiest way to go

[COKE]

Well I know Keisler seels a complete hydraulic clutch kit...      probably the easiest way to go

Are you using the Keisler?

[Rolling_Thunder]

nay - I'm using the Wilwood one with i think a McLeod hydraulic TO bearing....    I fabbed a nifty mounting bracket to mount the slave in the location of the stock pushrod...    then modified the pushrod itself...     then seal it dso no water would leak into the car....     all together it took me about 30 hours to install....    between having to fab things, find hardware, make fittings work...     the Keisler kit sounded alot better

[phat69charger]

I'm working on a hydraulic actuator system too, that you don't have to drop the Transmission to use because you use a Puller Slave cylinder to pull the fork back, and a master cylinder that mounts through the factory hole on a four speed car, I have a few more parts to have fabbed up then I'll test it out once my charger's brake system is finished and it's able to stop on it's own.

The puller is a Wilwood slave cylinder, ands it's shielded by a 1/8" aluminum plate to block some of the heat from the header.

[Chryco Psycho]

I have used the McLeod unit it bolts onto the front of the trans & doesn`t use a lever , I like the way it works

[phat69charger]

I taught about all of the options I had to get the clutch to work with hydraulics, and I don't knock hydraulic throwout bearings it's just that if it should leak any that means dissassembly cleaning an automatic $100 for a new clutch disc and maybe a new throwout bearing $???, so for me the external hydraulics was a better choice and simpler system to install, and diagnose if you have a problem.

[phat69charger]

Here's a shot of the master cylinder and the custom SS line I had made for it to connect to the Wilwood slave cylinder.

[phat69charger]

More shots

[phat69charger]

More Shots

[phat69charger]

Tested the system out and it moves the fork, the peddle travel is pretty short only about 6 inches no where near the floor like a factory z bar linkage would be, it's so short it doesn't seem right, but it's pulling the fork like it's working hopefully it's enough to disengage the clutch,  I need to connect my driveshaft up and see if it's releasing enough, I'll keep you posted.

29 April, I actually measured the peddle travel distance and it was 4.5" not about 6" like I guessed before.

[phat69charger]

Had to make a reinforcement plate to take some of the flex out of the area that the Master Cylinder goes through

[Rolling_Thunder]

Had to make a reinforcement plate to take some of the flex out of the area that the Master Cylinder goes through

I did very similar when I did mine-

[phat69charger]

Here's some earlier shots of the Master Cylinder when I first got it, and put it in for a test fit.

[phat69charger]

Here's some shots of the Linkage

[COKE]

Is that master cilinder on the pictures the one from Keisler?

[Rolling_Thunder]

Is that master cilinder on the pictures the one from Keisler?

no...

[COKE]

no...

Oh...Ok,Thanks for the reply

[phat69charger]

Is that master cilinder on the pictures the one from Keisler?

Coke
It's a GM one you have to have a line made for it because it metric threads on the body of it, I had a line made for $30.00