How can I make it so I can just get in start it up and go with a carb?

[WH23G3G]

I don't want to have to start changing jets or metering rods. If I can't get it right the way it is with this edelbrock I'm going to put the 73 400-4 bbl intake and 6321s thermoquad back on that I have because I verified it has the correct jets and metering rods. At least then I know it will be stock as possible. But that is a problem in my area no shop really knows carb tuning. All the hot toddlers around here are all GM and think when I say I have a 400 it's a GM motor. The mechanic I originally had working on it said to get this Edelbrock and my trouble would be over. Then when he couldn't get it to run right he realized the intake was leaking. So it could've been fine with the thermoquad.

[Dino]

Time to start over, but do it yourself.  There is no point in paying someone to do this if they don't know the procedure themselves.  If you decide to use the current intake manifold and Thermoquad then get all the seals you need, maybe a new valley pan and secure the intake manifold and pan to the block with Permatex ultra copper.  A thin bead all around.  That solves the intake issues.  Depending on where the choke rod ends up, put a spacer between the TQ and the intake.  If you need to rebuild the TQ then the kit should come with a 1/4" thick gasket that works pretty well.  If you don,t then just order one online.  Rebuilding the TQ is easy, adjusting it is another matter but as long as you follow the instructions step by step you'll do fine.  I know members here have the TQ procedures so hopefully one of them can post it or you can google it. I can't find mine of course....

[69wannabe]

A few years back had a 67 satellite that was a factory 383 but had a 72 400 tossed in it. It was running but barely, I sold him a 383 performer eddy intake and he bought a 750 eddy carb which I took back and swapped for a 1406 eddy carb. Got the car up and running with some new points and condenser and plugs and wire set and it ran pretty good but after it was hot it was hard to start like the fuel was boiling over. I added the heat divider spacer to it and pulled the carb apart and re-set the float levels. They were way off and I knew it was a brand new carb so it was that way right out of the box. After that it was pretty much a very good running carb with little or no issues at all. The type of fuel pump makes a difference too cause I have seen out of the box parts store mechanical fuel pumps have 8+ psi and with an eddy carb that is excessive. The carter street pumps are set at 6 psi and works great with the eddy carb. I have had to use regulators more than once on some store bought fuel pumps. Later on for that same car I rebuilt the 383 that came out of it and it was 30 over with a XE268 comp cam with a mopar ignition conversion kit and put the hi-po manifold on there and used the same intake and carb and didn't have to do nothing but bolt it on there and it ran great for both engines even though the 383 was built up a little more than the stock 400 the carb worked great on both engines. A good solid ignition set up and a well tuned carb will run good but you do have to work at it sometimes to get it all working together!!

[WH23G3G]

This is what I was going to do in order to remove and reinstall my Edelbrock 1400 myself so I know what's done to it. I haven't changed the fuel pump since the motor was being rebuilt probably 4 or 5 years ago. This one in the picture is a new Airtex listed under a 1973 Dodge Charger 400 4bbl. It used a 5/16 tank to pump line. The OEM steel line I got from Right Stuff from the pump to Carter Thermoquad was 5/16 and ran behind the alternator up the block over the corner of the valve cover. Well the threads on the pump fitting are 1/2" inverted flare so I had to buy an inverted flare 1/2" fitting and a 3/8" fuel line. You can see I cut the line, bent it up in a U shape and I am going to just run that 3/8 silicone hose from there to the Edelbrock carb fitting. Is it ok to add an adapter like that to the pump in order to make the hose fit? Also where do you find the flare tool to make the arrow shaped flare like the original when I flare the end I cut it will be almost impossible to install that silicone 3/8 hose over it. I'm also going to install a 3/8 inline fuel pressure gauge so I can see what it's doing while running. I'm also going to install the 9266 Edelbrock heat divider gasket when I remove and reinstall the carb. Do I need to do or check anything on the carb before I remove and reinstall it? Tell me if that way I got the pump setup will be ok. I currently don't have the cut end where the adapter is flared because I have to borrow the flare tool. But sure would like to know if there's a way to make those arrow flares so I can flip the line around to make it easier to slip the hose on.