Brake caliper bleeding screw broke off

[sext7366]

Changed my brake pads the other day and when I went to bleed the pass caliper, the bolt was stuck, so I sprayed it with some wd 40 and Knocker loose lubricants, and let it sit overnight. Went out yesterday to finish up and It was still tight, but after letting it sit wasn't much else to do but crank on that SOB and of course it broke off the top part, and the threads are still stuck down in the caliper.  Any reason that I cant or shouldn't drill it out, and if necessary rethread the hole? Also do you think I should completeley remove it from the brake lines in order to keep as much debri out of the system as possible?

[71charger_fan]

Assuming they still make them, buy yourself a set of "tap-a-sockets." They fit over your bleeders and you put a box wrench on the socket. You can whack the socket with a hammer while putting torque on the wrench. I haven't broken a bleeder since I got these things. I think K-D makes them. I got mine for a dollar each at Carlisle.

As far as your current problem, even if you get some debris in there won't bleeding the brakes push it right back out? If it's a slider caliper, rebuilt ones are only about $20. I'd get a new one and let the rebuilder get the broken bleeder out.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Personally, I would just replace the caliper unless it's a hard to get/rare unit, but I was just wondering why you were opening the bleeder to replace the pads?

[golden73]

I too, would replace the caliper

[warlock]

I too would replace the caliper. I have a 70 Charger and I can get my calipers over the counter at any parts store for pretty cheap.

I too wonder why you would bleed the brakes for a brake pad change.

I have broken these off before, and used easy outs to get them, and if they were stubborn I used a little heat.

[sext7366]

well being that my rotor is technically not useable anymore as it been too worn down, and the price of new rotors are expensive at least last time I checked they were around 225 per side, but thats been a few years back, anyway so when I use a disc brake spreader to open up the calipers sometimes I'll spread them too far, causing some fluid to leak out of the master cylinder.  Most of the time I can do it will just minimal fluid loss, but the cars been sitting and I am rusty.  So long story short when I put the new pads on the fluid from the master cylinder obviously went down too far before I could get to the other side to refill it.  So, instead of bleeding the master cylinder (having to take it off etc, or even mess with it) I just decided to bleed the whole system.  Its been probably 5 years or so anyway, and has been sitting for probly four months.

It was probably still overkill, but since the car isn't running all I have to do is get it ready when I do get the engine back.

[sext7366]

As far as how hard it will be to find, I just had one question, which setup were your calipers from.  Was it a 383 disc brake system, Hemi/HD,  or does this matter?

[is_it_EVER_done?]

As much as I hate to recommend this, if the brakes worked well before this hapend, I would just change the pads and forget about the broken bleeder until the next time you replace the pads.

If you get master cylinder overflow by prying back the pads at replacement time, you are waiting to long between replacements.

I am guessing that you have a 4-piston Bendix system since you state that your rotors are $200.00 plus each. If so, and you are driving the car around enough to require pad replacement, I would certainly have your calipers professionally restored rather than taking a drill to one. If my assumption is correct, I believe you should toss out the antique system and upgrade to a modern system instead.

Antique brakes on a museum car is cool. On a street car they have no place.

[sext7366]

Yeah you are probably right because I had the power brake booster rebuilt last year, and since I knew of a good place in Tulsa who rebuilt the old bendix type units I took it to them.  I remember the guy telling me that the booster was a very heavy duty bendix dual diaphram system which was usually used on hemis, or large trucks. Anyway, what type of upgrades are out there? I am guessing they wont be cheap huh?

After thinking about it though it can't be the four piston system because I remember just seeing the one large piston on each side.  I double checked and the rotors are 180 from Napa the paddack and i'm sure most others.

[Silver R/T]

I would upgrade with these http://www.speedbleeder.com/
saves so much time and work when you have these installed

[jayco91]

Heres a old garage trick you mightwant to try. If the caliper hose is attached at or very close to the top of the piston cylinder, you want it next to the bleeder screw, you can crack the hose open just a little to let the air out. you want some body else in the car to push the pedal slowly to the floor. You only need to loosen the brake hose a little. Ideally with somebody else in the car and you watching you should see air bubbles at first and when you see steady fluid leaking out tighten up the brake hose nut. If your hose dose not attached near the top of the piston cylinder take the caliper off the roter and arange it so it does. Don't forget to put something in between the brake pads, a 2x4 for instance. Remember the object is to get the air out of the cylinder, it doesn't matter if it comes out the bleeder screw or the hose that you loosened.

[Charger_Fan]

Heres a old garage trick you mightwant to try. If the caliper hose is attached at or very close to the top of the piston cylinder, you want it next to the bleeder screw, you can crack the hose open just a little to let the air out. you want some body else in the car to push the pedal slowly to the floor. You only need to loosen the brake hose a little. Ideally with somebody else in the car and you watching you should see air bubbles at first and when you see steady fluid leaking out tighten up the brake hose nut. If your hose dose not attached near the top of the piston cylinder take the caliper off the roter and arange it so it does. Don't forget to put something in between the brake pads, a 2x4 for instance. Remember the object is to get the air out of the cylinder, it doesn't matter if it comes out the bleeder screw or the hose that you loosened.

I've done that before with wheel cylinders, when I had a frozen bleeder screw & didn't want to snap it off.

Also, one thing to remember about bleeder screws is that if you leave the hole exposed & not cap it off, it will collect water & dirt down in the hole...basically rusting it from the inside out.
After you're done bleeding the brakes, dab a little grease in the hole & slip a rubber vacuum cap on the bleeder. You'll rarely have another rusted bleeder screw again.