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Advice on Gauge Cluster Rebuild/Restore

Started by Moparman01, August 14, 2014, 06:40:32 PM

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Moparman01

Dash is out of the Charger and stripped bare, now i have to figure out what, or how, to restore the gauge cluster. First let me say, i have never done ANY dash or gauge work ever period! Honest opinion, is it something for a first timer to just go a head and do or is it better, quicker, easier and/or more cost effective to just send the cluster out to a professional shop to be done? What kind of price is usually involved with sending out to places like Instrument Specialties or Redline Gauge Works? I'd like to go with custom white faces for the gauges like what i've seen from Redline. On the other side, what all is involved restoring the gauge cluster yourself?? My dash cluster is old and a little dirty, faces are faded and yellowed as are the lenses too. I have no way of knowing how well my old gauges work, car has been off the road for several years but the guages did work when i put the car away. I've been told that instrument restoration involves re-calibrating the gauges, something the average do it yourselfer is not capable of. My thought process is instead of paying $900 for a new set of guages, if i don't need them, why not have my originals updated/rebuilt, but i don't know if it is that simple, or even cheaper for that matter. I'm not extremely budget strapped or anything but i have to pay attention to what i'm spending, lol everyone knows these things can spiral out of control very easily!! Thanks for any advice!!

   


Moparman01

Wow, it was even a "sticky" post and i totally missed it! Good stuff, but man there is MUCH more involved than i ever even began to imagine! Time to do some thinking...

b5blue


69wannabe

I just got mine back from redline gauge works and it was a good experience for me. I had already re-faced my gauges and speedometer myself a few years back with a decal kit from performance graphic's (I think that was the name of that place) It was years several years ago when I did that and they did offer a white gauge kit too and the kit was only like $30 bucks back then. I did mine back in the black like original's and it wasn't hard to do cause my skills are pretty bad when it come's to these kind of things. I sent my cluster to redline to get the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and had all my other gauges recalibrated and he put that new solid state voltage limiter in there too and the costs was $287.00 for all of it and the gauges work great and are very accurate now compared to how they were reading before I sent it out. You can re face the gauges yourself but I just let redline do the rest. I picked up a tic toc tach a couple of years back and sent it to them for an overhaul and it was costly but it was pretty much shot too so I had it completely rebuilt. Rebuilt tach,clock, and new set shaft and they refaced it and it works perfect. That was pricey at $491.00 but a one time deal pretty much. Yeah I have about $800 bucks in it but it is the way I wan't it so that's fine with me. :yesnod:

jaak

I think rebuilding the original gauges is the way to go... it is expensive but worth it. I tried some simple test on my 69 gauges, they showed they were good... so I refaced them with some decals and decided to use them. Not long after getting my car running the Oil pressure gauge quit, and the Temp reads about 60* higher than it actually is. Right now I installed and aftermarket Oil and Temp gauge to keep tabs on everything. I plan on rebuilding the originals in this car some day.

Now my 68... I have a strict budget. I installed new gauges. I used Equuis 7000 series based on price and they are sort of factory looking (white needles/font). I spent about 185 for the tach/speedo/volt/fuel/temp/oil... and sold off the original gauges that needed rebuilt on eBay for about 85. So I got about 100 in it. Had to heavily modified the cluster housing and make mods to the bezel to make everything fit.

Cheapo 68 gauges...


Jason

b5blue


Skull-1

Quote from: 69wannabe on August 14, 2014, 08:45:43 PM
I just got mine back from redline gauge works and it was a good experience for me. I had already re-faced my gauges and speedometer myself a few years back with a decal kit from performance graphic's (I think that was the name of that place) It was years several years ago when I did that and they did offer a white gauge kit too and the kit was only like $30 bucks back then. I did mine back in the black like original's and it wasn't hard to do cause my skills are pretty bad when it come's to these kind of things. I sent my cluster to redline to get the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and had all my other gauges recalibrated and he put that new solid state voltage limiter in there too and the costs was $287.00 for all of it and the gauges work great and are very accurate now compared to how they were reading before I sent it out. You can re face the gauges yourself but I just let redline do the rest. I picked up a tic toc tach a couple of years back and sent it to them for an overhaul and it was costly but it was pretty much shot too so I had it completely rebuilt. Rebuilt tach,clock, and new set shaft and they refaced it and it works perfect. That was pricey at $491.00 but a one time deal pretty much. Yeah I have about $800 bucks in it but it is the way I wan't it so that's fine with me. :yesnod:


Did Redline repaint them or use decals?

I sent mine to some other place and it is gonna be almost $1500 not to mention a new headlight switch I have to provide since mine was broken during shipment.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6231.0.html

1969 Dodge Charger "Ol' Yeller"
1991 Buick Regal Custom
1992 Buick Regal Custom
1995 Buick Regal Gran Sport
1996 Buick Regal SE (R.I.P.)

Moparman01

Quote from: Skull-1 on August 15, 2014, 09:29:21 AM
Did Redline repaint them or use decals?

I sent mine to some other place and it is gonna be almost $1500 not to mention a new headlight switch I have to provide since mine was broken during shipment.

$1500 bucks?? Does that include a new bezel panel as well?? And all new switches? Almost seems like buying a whole new set of OEM gauges for around $900 and just replacing the old guages would be easier and more cost effective. I will start taking mine apart next week and get an idea of what i have to work with, and maybe put in a call to Redline just get a ball park quote.

Skull-1

Quote from: Moparman01 on August 15, 2014, 11:46:43 AM
Quote from: Skull-1 on August 15, 2014, 09:29:21 AM
Did Redline repaint them or use decals?

I sent mine to some other place and it is gonna be almost $1500 not to mention a new headlight switch I have to provide since mine was broken during shipment.

$1500 bucks?? Does that include a new bezel panel as well?? And all new switches? Almost seems like buying a whole new set of OEM gauges for around $900 and just replacing the old guages would be easier and more cost effective. I will start taking mine apart next week and get an idea of what i have to work with, and maybe put in a call to Redline just get a ball park quote.


Polishing.  Resurfacing.  Calibrating.  Repairing fried circuit board.   Quartz conversion of clock.  Upgraded volt Limiter.    Recalibration of Speedo.  Replace damaged switches.  

Basically rebuilding every inch of it.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6231.0.html

1969 Dodge Charger "Ol' Yeller"
1991 Buick Regal Custom
1992 Buick Regal Custom
1995 Buick Regal Gran Sport
1996 Buick Regal SE (R.I.P.)

69wannabe

Quote from: Skull-1 on August 15, 2014, 09:29:21 AM
Quote from: 69wannabe on August 14, 2014, 08:45:43 PM
I just got mine back from redline gauge works and it was a good experience for me. I had already re-faced my gauges and speedometer myself a few years back with a decal kit from performance graphic's (I think that was the name of that place) It was years several years ago when I did that and they did offer a white gauge kit too and the kit was only like $30 bucks back then. I did mine back in the black like original's and it wasn't hard to do cause my skills are pretty bad when it come's to these kind of things. I sent my cluster to redline to get the ammeter converted to a voltmeter and had all my other gauges recalibrated and he put that new solid state voltage limiter in there too and the costs was $287.00 for all of it and the gauges work great and are very accurate now compared to how they were reading before I sent it out. You can re face the gauges yourself but I just let redline do the rest. I picked up a tic toc tach a couple of years back and sent it to them for an overhaul and it was costly but it was pretty much shot too so I had it completely rebuilt. Rebuilt tach,clock, and new set shaft and they refaced it and it works perfect. That was pricey at $491.00 but a one time deal pretty much. Yeah I have about $800 bucks in it but it is the way I wan't it so that's fine with me. :yesnod:


Did Redline repaint them or use decals?

I sent mine to some other place and it is gonna be almost $1500 not to mention a new headlight switch I have to provide since mine was broken during shipment.

I put new decals on my small gauges and the speedo but redline did the reface on the tach but I am not sure if it's paint or decals. :shruggy: You can e-mail or call and ask what they do when they reface gauges when they do them. I was afraid to send my cluster out there with all the switches in it so when I sent out the cluster I removed the tach, headlight switch and the dimmer/dome light switch to keep them with me since they were not needed to do what they done for my gauges. I had it wrapped in bubble wrap and more bubble wrap and then alot of packing material when I sent it to them. I cut the box back open twice and stuffed it with more packing til it didn't move at all when I shook the box around!!

Dino

I had a lot of fun restoring mine and I used chrome paint so I could redo the bezels real cheap.  Still looking good!   :icon_smile_big:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86736.0.html
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

myk

Quote from: Moparman01 on August 15, 2014, 11:46:43 AM
Quote from: Skull-1 on August 15, 2014, 09:29:21 AM
Did Redline repaint them or use decals?

I sent mine to some other place and it is gonna be almost $1500 not to mention a new headlight switch I have to provide since mine was broken during shipment.

$1500 bucks?? Does that include a new bezel panel as well?? And all new switches? Almost seems like buying a whole new set of OEM gauges for around $900 and just replacing the old guages would be easier and more cost effective. I will start taking mine apart next week and get an idea of what i have to work with, and maybe put in a call to Redline just get a ball park quote.

So not worth it, IMO.  If you're just seeking good looks and functionality, what Jaak did for his '68 is more than adequate and arguably better...
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bill440rt

Quote from: myk on August 18, 2014, 10:50:44 AM
Quote from: Moparman01 on August 15, 2014, 11:46:43 AM
Quote from: Skull-1 on August 15, 2014, 09:29:21 AM
Did Redline repaint them or use decals?

I sent mine to some other place and it is gonna be almost $1500 not to mention a new headlight switch I have to provide since mine was broken during shipment.

$1500 bucks?? Does that include a new bezel panel as well?? And all new switches? Almost seems like buying a whole new set of OEM gauges for around $900 and just replacing the old guages would be easier and more cost effective. I will start taking mine apart next week and get an idea of what i have to work with, and maybe put in a call to Redline just get a ball park quote.

So not worth it, IMO.  If you're just seeking good looks and functionality, what Jaak did for his '68 is more than adequate and arguably better...

For some, it is.
I don't remember paying anywhere near $1500 bucks to have mine done thru Redline. And that was with a white-face conversion, voltmeter conversion, calibration, and volt limiter. Redline does not use decals. I used decals first, although they did the job I was not 100% thrilled.
Some things you can do yourself to still keep costs down. I polished the lens myself, painted the needles orange with an airbrush, and like Dino repainted the bezels with chrome paint and lettered them (of course real chrome still looks better IMHO). The switches were ok so I left them.
All depends what you want.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

comet_666

I called instrument specialties and they told me a turn key dash would run me $6000! And that is with me sending them everything I have!
They are real nice but no that nice.

Moparman01

Right on Bill!! Yeah i would love to save a few bucks doing the whole thing myself but the piece of mind knowing it's done 100% correct just might be worth the extra $$$. $1500 does seem a bit high tho for what needs to be done, i could see that if i were going with all brand new gauges, i just want my factory units to function correctly and accurately and look like brand new with a slight custom touch (white faces). I haven't made up my mind yet if i'm going to send out or tackle it all myself, i might make a call to Redline and get a ballpark figure from them and go from there. Tonight i started taking the cluster apart on my work bench, gauges look like they are in very good shape, but how accurate i do not know. My bezel face is in rough shape tho, somebody re-painted it and did a horrible job, i'm already having trouble stripping the paint of the sections of dash inserts so i may be buying new. The clear lenses are pretty faded/cloudy as well, what are you guy's using to polish the plastic lenses??



Needle was broken off the whole time i used the car as a driver!




Skull-1

Well.....I don't know what to do then....

I want the peace of mind knowing it will be done right without any questions asked...

*sigh*
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6231.0.html

1969 Dodge Charger "Ol' Yeller"
1991 Buick Regal Custom
1992 Buick Regal Custom
1995 Buick Regal Gran Sport
1996 Buick Regal SE (R.I.P.)

comet_666

Just remember, every time you are driving you have to look at the dash. For me it would be one of the last things if not the last thing I did before It was road ready but I would do it right.

Pete in NH

On the clear lens try the Novus Plastic Polish kit. It comes with three small bottles of polish with different abrasives. The most abrasive takes out scratches and the next two restore the clear look of the lens. Do an internet search on Novus Plastic Polish and you'll find multiple sources.

Dino

I think I mentioned what I used in the thread I posted.  I think it was Meguiar's plastic polish and it worked very well.

The chrome paint is almost the same as true chrome, but it's not rattle can chrome and you need to know how to paint if you want to attempt it.  One mistake and the chrome will look silver.  Real vacuum plating is always better of course but if you want to give it a shot, I paid a few bucks for the paint and did all three bezels.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

bill440rt

You can also try Easy-Off oven cleaner or brake fluid to remove the paint off the bezels.  :yesnod:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Moparman01

Quote from: Dino on August 19, 2014, 12:25:06 PM
I think I mentioned what I used in the thread I posted.  I think it was Meguiar's plastic polish and it worked very well.

The chrome paint is almost the same as true chrome, but it's not rattle can chrome and you need to know how to paint if you want to attempt it.  One mistake and the chrome will look silver.  Real vacuum plating is always better of course but if you want to give it a shot, I paid a few bucks for the paint and did all three bezels.

Yes you did mention the Meguiars Plastic Polish, i just forgot! I might go pick some up tonight! I think I know what chrome paint you are talking about, stuff is called Alclad and must be shot thru an airbrush? I'm big into the scale model car hobby (gets me thru the winter lol) and i've read a lot about Alclad, guys strip the model kit "plasti-chrome" off bumpers/grilles/wheels ect. and spray that stuff on for a more accurate/realistic chrome look. Cool stuff but i've never tried it, never really got into airbrushing. You are right, rattle can "chrome" paint really doesn't come out very chrome, more of a bright silver. If i can get the nasty black paint off my dash insert panels i will probably just use the rattle can chrome paint, it will look fine as long as the what thing is uniform.

Skull-1

Quote from: comet_666 on August 19, 2014, 07:36:44 AM
Just remember, every time you are driving you have to look at the dash. For me it would be one of the last things if not the last thing I did before It was road ready but I would do it right.

It is actually.   I have spent $35K over the last 10+ years.  Everything has been done except door panels, a/c control panel, and the cluster.

Of course, now I have to find out what fried my electrical system a few months back.  I suspect my Electronic VR blew up and went full tilt....

I will be running a stock setup until I can convert the Ammeter to something safer.   Eek.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6231.0.html

1969 Dodge Charger "Ol' Yeller"
1991 Buick Regal Custom
1992 Buick Regal Custom
1995 Buick Regal Gran Sport
1996 Buick Regal SE (R.I.P.)

K9COP


[/quote]I will be running a stock setup until I can convert the Ammeter to something safer.   Eek.[/quote]

If I were you, I'd put the two ammeter wires onto one terminal on the back of the gauge (common work around for dodgy ammeters) and buy a cigarette lighter plug in voltmeter to keep you safe until you decide what to do as a permanent fix. Sounds cheesy but it works:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-Digital-LED-Display-Volt-Meter-Auto-Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltage-Gauge-/360667494249?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f9753769&vxp=mtr



K9
I'd rather push a Charger than drive a Mustang.. which is lucky..

My cars:
'69/70 Charger 440
'03 Range Rover
'05 Audi A8R
'93 Lotus Omega (SOLD)
'97 Jag U Are XK8 (For Sale)
'68 Charger 318 (for sale)
'74ish Charger 400Magnum (sold)
'89 Nissan Skyline GTR (sold)
'92 Jeep Cherokee 9" lift (sold)
95 Crown Victoria Police K9 unit work car! (in the great impound lot in the sky..)

Skull-1

Well, I took it to a guy who knows his stuff.   We are dumping the Ammeter wires altogether from the source and will be running the Ammeter as a Voltmeter...   First thing is to try and find what fried...
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6231.0.html

1969 Dodge Charger "Ol' Yeller"
1991 Buick Regal Custom
1992 Buick Regal Custom
1995 Buick Regal Gran Sport
1996 Buick Regal SE (R.I.P.)