`68 Charger build Restomod

[68pplcharger]

Looking good keep up the good work   

[phantom]

Thank you guys

So, a question: Since i have the Wilwood rear discbrake-kit ready to install, but the crappy (8-3/4) 741 centersection open diff, i am switching the rear end for new parts.

How does this sound:

- 8 3/4 Complete Built To Order 489 Mopar Center Section
- True-Trac 30 spline
- 1350 Series Yoke - Forged (29 spline pinion)
- 3.73:1 Ratio Pro Street (Motive Gear)

Part # A30-CST-B68 - 1968-70 B-Body, 8 3/4" Rear Axles, Stock Drum Brake -- 30 Spline

I'm no expert on this subject, but i assume these axles will fit the center section, they're both 30 spline? And there's no info on the axle offset, is this almost certain 2.36?
My original axles are 2.36 and my car was stock drum brake.

Reason i ask is, when i ordered my Wilwood kit, i specified the offset to 2.36 so i would want the new axles to fit my brakes. Also, i have used my old axles to determine the measurements of my new wheels. But they are not ordered yet, want to be sure  

[RCCDrew]

Nice! Subscribed!

[phantom]

I chatted with a guy at Moser, he said the axles would work with the center section and the Wilwoods 

[garner7555]

Thank you guys

So, a question: Since i have the Wilwood rear discbrake-kit ready to install, but the crappy (8-3/4) 741 centersection open diff, i am switching the rear end for new parts.

How does this sound:

- 8 3/4 Complete Built To Order 489 Mopar Center Section
- True-Trac 30 spline
- 1350 Series Yoke - Forged (29 spline pinion)
- 3.73:1 Ratio Pro Street (Motive Gear)

Part # A30-CST-B68 - 1968-70 B-Body, 8 3/4" Rear Axles, Stock Drum Brake -- 30 Spline

I'm no expert on this subject, but i assume these axles will fit the center section, they're both 30 spline? And there's no info on the axle offset, is this almost certain 2.36?
My original axles are 2.36 and my car was stock drum brake.

Reason i ask is, when i ordered my Wilwood kit, i specified the offset to 2.36 so i would want the new axles to fit my brakes. Also, i have used my old axles to determine the measurements of my new wheels. But they are not ordered yet, want to be sure  

There are a few people reporting problems with the true trac.     Here is a link to a discussion on it.   
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=108729.0

[phantom]

Did some more work. Got the whole car in PPG DP40 primer.

I assembled the rear suspension again, with brakes, to measure for the wheels.  





Made a template to determine the width and backspacing of the rear wheel. Rears will be 20x12" and fronts will be 20x9".



Will be close to the lip, but i'll roll them.   


Did the same to the front.




Got my new seats. Genuine Recaros. They will be reupholstered in a tan/light saddle leather, along with the rest of the interior


Took it all of again, and finally got my coating on the underside of the car. Bought some transparent Bed-liner, which my painter mixed with the cars color
super strong and nice looking

[dads_69]

Is that snake green?

[myk]

I like it...

[tan top]

  nice work 

[tsmithae]

Looks good!  Which tintable liner did you wind up using?  I have some Raptor for the bottom of mine and i hope it comes out that nice! 

[Lennard]

No subframe connectors and/or torque boxes?

[phantom]

Thank you guys

The color is Snakeskin green yes, it is virtually the same color as the Candy lime green from Kawasaki i was aiming for, but for the fraction of the price. Plus, it is a tad "greener" when the sun hits it, the Kawa-color fades too much towards yellow/mustard kind of.

I went for this:


Never worked with this product before, and we first tried applying (on a piece of cardboard) with the enclosed coating gun, but it came on way to thick for my liking. So we used a regular spray gun with a 2mm nozzle.

I will add subframe connectors, but they will be the bolt-on kind, Magnumforce i think. For some odd reason, they wont allow welded in connectors in Norway.

One guy showed up with welded in connectors on a Mustang one time, he had to remove them and show up with bolt-ons instead to get his car road legal

[Lennard]

Ah, I didn't know you were in Norway. Weird rule though, since you're obviously allowed to fabricate a completely different rear suspension set up under the same car.
That color looks great, can't wait to see it finished.  

[phantom]

Ah, I didn't know you were in Norway. Weird rule though, since you're obviously allowed to fabricate a completely different rear suspension set up under the same car.
That color looks great, can't wait to see it finished.  

Haha, thats true.

Thank you, looking forward to it myself

[RCCDrew]

Make the welded subframe connectors look factory. 

[303 Mopar]

Make the welded subframe connectors look factory. 

Here is how I did mine if it helps....

[phantom]

303 mopar, that looks sweet

So, i like a bit of personal touch to my car. Nothing extreme, just small touches here and there.  I decided early on that i wanted to tuck my bumpers a little bit.
I thought of cutting off the ends to build new ones form scratch, to fill in the pockets in the fenders, but i wanted to leave most of the original look, but at the same time get a more streamlined look. So i wound up shortening the bumpers and moving them closer to the body, still using the original corners.







After cutting, the corners fit the body much better imo:




Tucked. Also welded up the holes that bolt the bumpers to the bumperframe, and welded the bumpers directly to the frame.


Did the same to the rear:




Got my new Detroit True Trac 30 spline also, with Moser axles




Thanks for watching

[charger chris]

Wow nice work.

[phantom]

Thank you;)

[phantom]

Been a while as usual. Got the car delivered to the painter though. He will do the rest of the bodywork, which should be minor straightening of the doors and filling the seams.






In the meantime i have started on the dashboard. It was pretty rough, so i ordered a set of aftermarket dash "pads", only to find that they were molds made of hard plastic with nothing on the backside. So i ditched that idea, and decided to repair the originals.

Cleaned the parts with strong soap first


Had to re-glue the padding around the vent hole




Needed to glue the bottom side as well




I am changing the colour of my interior, so i bought dye from a company called Furniture Clinic. They have everything for leather and vinyl. I chose Alfa Romeo Tan.






First, i cleaned the pads with alcohol cleaner, then prepped them with Adhesion Promoter, before i added colour using a spray gun. Then, i sealed it off with three coats of matt Leather Finish.

The dash frame has the same colour



Oh, and i have just ordered new custom built-to-order rims. I chose CCW Daytona DS500 in 20x12" and 20x8,5". They will come with deep polished reverse lips and brushed grey centers.

Thanks for watching

[keepat]

I like the color! Reminds me of a Ferrari tan interior, very cool!
Pat

[Jarven]

What happened to this excellent thread?

[phantom]

Well, i got the car from the painter one month ago. He took his time to say the least. So, thats why the updates have been fairly rare. But i have been working on the parts in the interior, and the engine has been rebuilt.

For those who remember, i went with Snake Skin Green. When i started the build 3 years ago, the plan was to paint it Kawasaki Lime green, but these two colors are almost identical.



Finished sound deadening the car





Test fitted the new seats and fitted the dash so i can start making a custom console



Custom built rims



Got the new wheels fitted with tires, 325/25-20" in the rear. Fits with no issues



Mounting the rear and front suspension too





Newly rebuilt 440. Stealth heads, roller cam, roller rockers, Holley 750 DP, etc.



Thanks for watching

[garner7555]

Looking awesome!!

[BDF]

Great build!