Chris' 1968 Charger Upgrades 6/13 Bunch of updates, done uploading

[Chris 69]

Are you sure you want to go with a performer, or would you rather go with the performer RPM? Just some food for thought. I'm enjoying this thread. As soon as my car gets home I'll be throwing lightning speed rebuilding effort towards mine. Not ready for the swap your doing yet, gotta recoup some funds for an engine (STROKER). I'll be schlepping with a 383 for a summer or two, then a 440 stroker/5 speed passon. Keep up the good work.

I looked at both. But was concerned that the Performer RPM is taller and hood clearance could be an issue. Researching this site, I saw where others had used the Performer with no hood clearance issues, so I decided to go with the Performer.

Nothing wrong with a 383! What year is your Charger? Photos? I like the color in your profile pic.

[Chris 69]

Now HERE is a man that works on his car.  Hats off to you, sir...

[Chris 69]

Oh sure, make me look bad with my procrastinating!   

Great work, I'll be following this one closely.   

I'm hoping these upgrades get some of the guys at work going on their cars. My co-workers have:

1. 1966 Chevelle SS 396ci 4-speed, Hasn't run since the mid-90's. It's garaged and in decent shape.
2. 1969 Firebird 400ci, auto, hasn't run since ?? It's also stored inside.
3. 1966 Belvedere, 273ci, auto, hasn't run since ??
4. 1965 Mustang, 289ci, 3-speed manual. This one runs and is in decent shape. I helped the owner with a compression test last weekend.

[Chris 69]

Worked on the rear disc brakes today. Photos to follow.

First things first - safety!

[Chris 69]

Couple photos of the drum brakes. Wheel on and Wheel/drum off.

[Chris 69]

Pulled the axle. Since axle was out decided to change the wheel bearings and seals, but between the two of them, Napa and O'Reilly's only had one wheel wheel bearing in stock. Oh well, this will be a future project. For now, the exising bearings and seals will remain.

Didn't try Autozone. Last time I went in there and asked for a part lookup, no one behind the counter knew what the part was. That was the LAST time I've been to Autozone, but I digress...

[Chris 69]

Next installed the parking break assembly and axle. So far everthing is a bolt-in application.

[Chris 69]

Next was the rotor and caliper. Per MP's instructions and supplied shims, had to measure and shim the caliper to center it on the rotor.

One minor issue on both sides: The bolts that hold the parking break cable bracket on were slightly too long, and they touched the rotor when the rotor was tightend down. Solved the problem by shimming the bracket with a washer on each bolt.

[Chris 69]

Here's a photo of the other side. It was a tight fit for my 6'-6" frame.

Note the rust issues in the lower fender. Guess I'll be learning how to do body work at some point!

[Chris 69]

Per MP's instructions, has to bend the rigid tubing (gave me an excuse to by a bending tool). I bent the stock tubes for now, future plans will be to install new tubes once I get the car running and any bugs worked out. First photo is driver's side, second is passenger's side.

[Chris 69]

Put the wheel on. Minor issue arose with the inner wheel just barely touching the caliper. I'll have to call MP on Monday to discuss. Their template indicated that I had plenty of clearance. I did print the template at 1:1 scale and measured to verifiy size. Their website does state that the Pro Driver rear discs require 16" or larger wheels. Mine are 15x8's.

So far I'm very pleased with their conversion kit.

A wheel spacer will solve the problem, but I'll have to install longer lugnut studs, which I think means I'll have to pull the axles again.

[Chris 69]

Might do some work tomorrow on the car, as time permits, but nothing too involved.

[Baldwinvette77]

looks awesome! 

[will]

Are you sure you want to go with a performer, or would you rather go with the performer RPM? Just some food for thought. I'm enjoying this thread. As soon as my car gets home I'll be throwing lightning speed rebuilding effort towards mine. Not ready for the swap your doing yet, gotta recoup some funds for an engine (STROKER). I'll be schlepping with a 383 for a summer or two, then a 440 stroker/5 speed passon. Keep up the good work.

I looked at both. But was concerned that the Performer RPM is taller and hood clearance could be an issue. Researching this site, I saw where others had used the Performer with no hood clearance issues, so I decided to go with the Performer.

Nothing wrong with a 383! What year is your Charger? Photos? I like the color in your profile pic.

Ironically my car was white with a green interior, 383 plain jane a/c auto. Have put SSBC on all 4 corners, converted the interior to white. I started doing upgrades then decided to get the body done. Should be home soon, then the fun begins. All new wiring, new interior, brake and fuel lines, the list is long, as everyone here knows. Going to be a father/daughter/son project. When it's all done, ice cream is the first stop.

[Chris 69]

Are you sure you want to go with a performer, or would you rather go with the performer RPM? Just some food for thought. I'm enjoying this thread. As soon as my car gets home I'll be throwing lightning speed rebuilding effort towards mine. Not ready for the swap your doing yet, gotta recoup some funds for an engine (STROKER). I'll be schlepping with a 383 for a summer or two, then a 440 stroker/5 speed passon. Keep up the good work.

I looked at both. But was concerned that the Performer RPM is taller and hood clearance could be an issue. Researching this site, I saw where others had used the Performer with no hood clearance issues, so I decided to go with the Performer.

Nothing wrong with a 383! What year is your Charger? Photos? I like the color in your profile pic.

Ironically my car was white with a green interior, 383 plain jane a/c auto. Have put SSBC on all 4 corners, converted the interior to white. I started doing upgrades then decided to get the body done. Should be home soon, then the fun begins. All new wiring, new interior, brake and fuel lines, the list is long, as everyone here knows. Going to be a father/daughter/son project. When it's all done, ice cream is the first stop.

Sounds like a fun project! Please share updates as they occur.

[Chris 69]

Did a little work today...

Since the rear axle wheel studs are too short for the rotor + spacer + wheel, I need to install longer studs. Note that the original drum is 0.125" thick and the new MP rotor is 0.250" thick. To offset the wheel, my spacer is 0.31" thick. This means I need a wheel stud about 0.435" longer than my current stud. Current stud is a Dorman 610-174, 1.75" overall length, 0.668" knurl, 1/2"-20, press-in. Looks like a 2.25" overall length stud is required. Haven't been able to find one yet. Any suggestions?

The other option would be to install 16" rear wheels:16x8, 5x4.5, 5" backspacing. Will there be any clearance issues with 5" backspacing? I'll check my 4" back-spaced wheels tomorrow to see if there's another inch of clearance.

These are what I would install: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3427812p/overview/

Here's some photos of today's activities. Pulled the axles out, pressed out the studs, and bagged the axle housings until I acquire the necessary parts (hopefully this week).

[Chris 69]

Then decided to modify the automatic trans cross member to accept the 4-speed trans. This entails cutting out the center section for installation the transmission mount.

Here's the unmodified auto trans cross member.

[Chris 69]

Then cutting out the center section so the mount will fit.

[Chris 69]

Here's the center section hole cut-out. Still have some cleanup to do.

Next photo is with the mount in place.

[Chris 69]

That was it for today.

Forgot to post this picture earlier. Once the engine was removed, I welded in the z-bar frame-mounted bracket. Welding this in would have been alot tougher with the engine installed. With the engine out, the K-frame makes a good seat.

[fy469rtse]

With engine out , great time to clean up that egnine bay, new coat of paint, bit of detailing , new engine freshly painted will make everything stand out, and you won't have to do it later,
by the way great car, good work going on here,
Alloy heads, headers,  just show dad , or you can send him over to my place, I can make him a list and he can adopt me lol

[XS29L9B2]

very nice project

[Chris 69]

Well, did some research last night, talked to Dorman Products, cannot find 2.25" long wheel studs for my 8.75" rear end. Looks like I'll be going with 16" wheels on the rears.

Also talked with MP this morning regarding clearances, decided to go with 16" wheels as their website recommends. So far, happy with MP customer service too!

[charge69]

Fantastic project there and looking to be very well executed.  Regarding the wheel studs, might it be possible to buy some racing studs that are too long and cut them down to the proper length.  Or maybe, just leave the longer racing studs on it with their proper length to give it a "racer" look!  I am thinking you were running the car with wheels and no caps so, their length would not give you a problem!

[Chris 69]

Fantastic project there and looking to be very well executed.  Regarding the wheel studs, might it be possible to buy some racing studs that are too long and cut them down to the proper length.  Or maybe, just leave the longer racing studs on it with their proper length to give it a "racer" look!  I am thinking you were running the car with wheels and no caps so, their length would not give you a problem!

Great idea!

Looks like stock knurl is 0.673.
Current stud knurls are 0.668.
The Milodon's in the link below are 0.675.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-86165/overview/

Looks like the Milodon's should work. I'll have to order some open lug nuts.

Thank you!