500/Daytona rear window trim

[Paul 500]

I'm missing the driver side rear window trim, I've seen clone Daytona's where they have made the trim. So I brought a set of standard Charger rear trim when I was over in the US so I could make one. As you can see the Daytona piece is also a different shape to the standard one. Has anyone made one if so where should I cut & add to extend it.

[daytonalo]

DAYTONA RT SE HAS MASTERED THIS .

[Daytona R/T SE]

DAYTONA R/T SE HAS MASTERED THIS .

Yep. 

Easy.  


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,21596.0.html

[500Jon]

Hi Paul500,

Looks like we both have the right hand 'upper' trims.
I think I can extend the left hand 'upper' trims at the top by 3''.
Also think I have two 'lower' corners the same side???

Got some stainless wire for the welder and need a spare trim for experimentations.

Best wishes 500Jon aka 'the LiMeY'

[daytonalo]

I hope you not thinking about a Mig ? If so this should be fun . I often pondered have my Military cert Tig welder attempt this . Warpage is going to be the issue here. Spile is the simple clean way as shown by Dautona rt se

[DAY CLONA]

I'm missing the driver side rear window trim, I've seen clone Daytona's where they have made the trim. So I brought a set of standard Charger rear trim when I was over in the US so I could make one. As you can see the Daytona piece is also a different shape to the standard one. Has anyone made one if so where should I cut & add to extend it.

I think you got the trim pcs oriented slightly askew, as the side/upper pcs are the same shape for the Charger and the Daytona, just a little bit longer in length, what I do when I convert customers cars to Daytonas, is use the existing 68-70 trim, the lower corners are asymmetrical, there is a left and right if you compare them together, I swap the lower corners L to R/R to L having the longer dog leg section on the bottom of the window, so that I can use the 68-70 Charger center sections stock length, no mod, other than a little curvature reshaping over one's upper thigh,the upper side pcs (Stock Charger 68-70) I cut a inch or so off for a clean edge, I then add a random length 12" or more to the side length, the reason for added length is if the weld/sanding/buff or reflective surface is unsatisfactory, there's more than enough to start over again, I jig the stainless pcs/the butted ends face down on a copper block, milled to the mouldings face profile, then clamp the pcs to the copper, the grooved profile in the copper aligns the 2 pcs together and keeps them straight, the copper also stops the weld penertration from getting ugly on the face side, I weld from the backside with a mig, using 308 Stainless Mig wire  .035 diameter/Argon gas, no need to dress the weld on the backside, as no one sees it, the face now has a small penertrated weld line that's flat because of the copper plate (the weld won't stick to copper) backer, so dressing down the weld is minimal work, however because of the reflective nature of the stainless, the weld needs to be dressed slowly, what I do is 10X visors to magnify the work area, a hi speed dremel, with a 3/4" dia X 1/16" thick dremel disc, slowly dress down the weld to just flush with the surrounding surface, then miniature files to "block" the weld, the key to getting a flat/blended weld on the trim is to use a black magic marker and color the area being worked, basically like you'd use a mist/splatter coat of a darker primer when blocking out the highs/lows in bodywork, this way you can see were the highs/lows are in the stainless weld and surrounding areas, after the weld line is blocked flat with the files, then you need to block sand the stainless, I use a miniture aluminum flat block, wrap my paper around it, and sand approximately a 6" inch long area, eventually working out to a 12" sanding area as the grits get finer to blend the repair, I start with 150 grit, and slowly work thru each grit size up to 1000 grit, you have to remove ALL the scratches left from the files and sandpaper grits, compounds won't do it, trust me...after 1000 grit then you can buff the area with rouge/compounds on a buffing machine, because the trim is so thin, approx .020, it's best to leave a weld bead on the backside to strengthen the blended area, because you dress down the face surface so much

Mike



I know I've done quite a few members cars/clones trim here over the years, I don't offer it anymore as it's tedious work, but thought I would out lay a process used for those wishing to attempting it on their own...only advice, practice on junk trim before attempting it on the good stuff!

Here's Mike Mustos car "Angrier" with my steel plug, trunk lid/hinges and Mike's stock trim lengthened and installed for test fit, along with some finished shots, Mikes car uses OEM's rear repro Daytona lanimate back glass

[Mopar John]

Hi Paul500,

Looks like we both have the right hand 'upper' trims.
I think I can extend the left hand 'upper' trims at the top by 3''.
Also think I have two 'lower' corners the same side???

Got some stainless wire for the welder and need a spare trim for experimentations.

Best wishes 500Jon aka 'the LiMeY'

Make that 3 of us that have right hand upper trims and NO left!
I have a nice regular Charger upper left and extra straight trim but havn't found anyone willing to make it all come together in one nice piece!
MJ

[Paul 500]

Strange we'll all missing the left side ones, where have they all ended up ?.
Thanks for the replies, the 500 piece was slightly bent out of shape that's what made me think the standard charger trim wasn't the right shape. My cousin has a metal workshop so I'm going to get the bloke that does the tig welding to do it. Gonna have to go & see 500Jon first to get some spare trim to practice on.
When they are done i'll put some pic's up.

[69_500]

Based on a story I was told by a Chrysler employee, there is a reason for a lot of rights and no lefts. If they were in separate bins, and they needed space they would simply trash one bin of pieces and keep the other.

[500Jon]

Hi Day-Clona Mike,

Thats a wonderful detailed description of trim repair/extention!

I love to mig and stick weld, its cheap and cheerful LoL.
Tigging is a wonderful way to weld but not do-able, for the most of us.

Even finding stock Charger trim is getting hard now!
We will do our best with what we have.

Thanx again Mike
500Jon