higher amp alternator

[b5blue]

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabwealbrkit.html

This is what I have, it works with any 2 field voltage regulator system. It will put out 60amp at idle easy. (Call to be sure it's in stock!) You can run a short large lead to a distribution block and control high draw items with control relays, that keeps Amps out of the dash. 

[timmycharger]

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabwealbrkit.html

This is what I have, it works with any 2 field voltage regulator system. It will put out 60amp at idle easy. (Call to be sure it's in stock!) You can run a short large lead to a distribution block and control high draw items with control relays, that keeps Amps out of the dash. 

Sorry, not being a smarta** but can you explain more about the control relays? I plan on having electric fans, fuel pump, and other items so I will be needing something better than a stock alternator and Im afraid about cooking the internal wires. Where would you mount that distribution block? in the engine bay? I was thinking about hidden under the console area, is that too far away?

[b5blue]

  You keep everything as close to Alt. output as possible so ideally a spot just to the side of the Alt. is best. That lets you "buss" output, 120amp fused to dist. bar/block and rated relay controlled feeds to fans, lights, amp or whatever per their load requirement. 40amp relays are fairly cheap and controlled by original/added switches or for fan a temp set switch the dash now uses much less draw. If you fuse each feed to each relay all are protected.
  After "field testing"  this setup for several years now that is how I will be doing things. For my 70 Charger I'll be adding a new "OER Brand" Alt. gauge that is rated for 60amp and doing much as Nacho outlined in his link.  This all kinda lets you set up a higher Alt. output just like you have in your home where 200amp come in and is safely distributed around where/what is needed. Got me?    

[charger Downunder]

Where are these for sale from above post. "OER Brand" Alt. gauge that is rated for 60amp

[myk]

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabwealbrkit.html

This is what I have, it works with any 2 field voltage regulator system. It will put out 60amp at idle easy. (Call to be sure it's in stock!) You can run a short large lead to a distribution block and control high draw items with control relays, that keeps Amps out of the dash. 

Sorry, not being a smarta** but can you explain more about the control relays? I plan on having electric fans, fuel pump, and other items so I will be needing something better than a stock alternator and Im afraid about cooking the internal wires. Where would you mount that distribution block? in the engine bay? I was thinking about hidden under the console area, is that too far away?

If you're worried about frying your 40 year old wiring then before you go about modifying anything you should install wiring that can handle the increased power.   

[b5blue]

  If your harness isn't hacked up this works very well and greatly improves function.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,70039.0.html

[Dino]

Where are these for sale from above post. "OER Brand" Alt. gauge that is rated for 60amp

Several places sell them, you can find them on ebay any day of the week.  All the new ammeters you find are rated for 60 amps.

[Pete in NH]

I would not use an ammeter in a system with these really big alternators, it is far safer to eliminate the ammeter and use a voltmeter. You really don't want these very high current circuits going into the passenger compartment and the available ammeters can't handle the current anyway. I would run a #6 gauge wire from the alternator output though a 120 amp fuse or fusible link to a new underhood distribution point. Control relays for fans and other items like the fuel pump would be fed off this point through fused circuits. I think it would be a good idea to draw out on paper what you are planning on doing before making any wiring changes. Equipment like the fans and fuel pump will come with installation suggestions as a starting point.

[charger Downunder]

Where are these for sale from above post. "OER Brand" Alt. gauge that is rated for 60amp

Several places sell them, you can find them on ebay any day of the week.  All the new ammeters you find are rated for 60 amps.

Thanks so all repro ones are 60 amps not all advertisers say this.

[b5blue]

Misleading sort of....OER Brand is the only one I'm certain of that 60amp rating but also the only one I know of MAKING that gauge. 
But now this topic is getting derailed.....

[1974dodgecharger]

well either way I need to get the bracket kit from mancini then get the alternator since budget is tight right now.....one piece at a time....

[1974dodgecharger]

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabwealbrkit.html

This is what I have, it works with any 2 field voltage regulator system. It will put out 60amp at idle easy. (Call to be sure it's in stock!) You can run a short large lead to a distribution block and control high draw items with control relays, that keeps Amps out of the dash. 

B5BLUE,
alright I just made the purchase!!!  I did not call to see if it is in stock, but oh well no rush to get her here and you brought up a great idea about the distribution block.  I used to use alot of blocks for when I was wiring up my car radios in my others cars and very helpful and it got me thinking about upgrading the battery to relay stud to a bigger wire also instead of a 10guage everything is setup already to handle the 120amper.

Also bought a prostart alternator from pepboys No. 13313, kinda odd they had two types one for 66 bucks and one for 130 bucks and both were 120amper, but the 133 dollar one was available locally while the other was not.

[69wannabe]

I actually went with the 75 amp powermaster one wire alternator that you were asking about in your first post and it works great for me so far. I plan on sending my cluster to redline gaugeworks in the spring and letting them convert my alternator gauge to a volt meter just to keep from having any issues with the wiring or gauge. I sent them my tic toc tach last spring and it looks and works great so they do have my trust on doing good work!!!

[b5blue]

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabwealbrkit.html

This is what I have, it works with any 2 field voltage regulator system. It will put out 60amp at idle easy. (Call to be sure it's in stock!) You can run a short large lead to a distribution block and control high draw items with control relays, that keeps Amps out of the dash.  

B5BLUE,
alright I just made the purchase!!!  I did not call to see if it is in stock, but oh well no rush to get her here and you brought up a great idea about the distribution block.  I used to use alot of blocks for when I was wiring up my car radios in my others cars and very helpful and it got me thinking about upgrading the battery to relay stud to a bigger wire also instead of a 10guage everything is setup already to handle the 120amper.

Let us know if it's back in stock.   If I remember the only thing to be careful about was the plug wire holder that attaches to the front exhaust manifold bolt. It's very close to the output stud on the Denso. I just removed mine, the Denso is so much smaller there is much more room in that whole area for wires and fuel lines to route through and around.

[charger Downunder]

I actually went with the 75 amp powermaster one wire alternator that you were asking about in your first post and it works great for me so far. I plan on sending my cluster to redline gaugeworks in the spring and letting them convert my alternator gauge to a volt meter just to keep from having any issues with the wiring or gauge. I sent them my tic toc tach last spring and it looks and works great so they do have my trust on doing good work!!!

If you want your original alternator / ammentor  gauge to have less current running through it, leave the original wires connected and also run a bridge across the two terminals to take some current you may have to experiment with the wire size so that you still get some movement in the gauge. I was told this by an old auto electrician who does this on many old cars here in Australia.

[69wannabe]

I actually went with the 75 amp powermaster one wire alternator that you were asking about in your first post and it works great for me so far. I plan on sending my cluster to redline gaugeworks in the spring and letting them convert my alternator gauge to a volt meter just to keep from having any issues with the wiring or gauge. I sent them my tic toc tach last spring and it looks and works great so they do have my trust on doing good work!!!

If you want your original alternator / ammentor  gauge to have less current running through it, leave the original wires connected and also run a bridge across the two terminals to take some current you may have to experiment with the wire size so that you still get some movement in the gauge. I was told this by an old auto electrician who does this on many old cars here in Australia.

Just take and add a jumper wire across the ammeter from post to post??? Hmmm, that doesn't seem like a bad idea. Wonder what size wire?? 12 to 14 gauge or would it need to be bigger than that??

[Skull-1]

Does anyone make LED Sealed Beams? That would seem to me to be the solution.   Maybe I am missing something but they would put out equivalent illumination for less power no?

[b5blue]

LED HEADLIGHTS like 500.00 per beam....

[Cooter]

GM 1 wire. 160 amps. Cheap. Bolts up with a little flippin round of brackets. Halogen head lights. Works awesome.

[Skull-1]

LED HEADLIGHTS like 500.00 per beam....

Holy Toledo!

[Skull-1]

GM 1 wire. 160 amps. Cheap. Bolts up with a little flippin round of brackets. Halogen head lights. Works awesome.

With a modified wire harness or factory?   All this talk about fires makes me happy to love with my dimmed headlights.

[1974dodgecharger]

well I found out that my alternator is for a big block, but with Air.  I bought a repro kit big block altenrator bracket since Mancini refunded my money.

[b5blue]

GM 1 wire. 160 amps. Cheap. Bolts up with a little flippin round of brackets. Halogen head lights. Works awesome.

With a modified wire harness or factory?   All this talk about fires makes me happy to love with my dimmed headlights.

Did you know when you see lights dim your ignition is also weak? One thing I didn't consider but found out AFTER installing an Alt. that can handle idle output was my spark was weakening as my lights, wipers and defroster weakened. The engine runs better at full volts/amp.

[1974dodgecharger]

Done with this crap.....I bought and returned so many alternators and bought brqckets and what not and cant get it to fit.....im just gonna get that ridicul7s high end one someon3 just posted.

[1974dodgecharger]

And if you want to get REALLY silly...
http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=557
I agree with the comments about the 40 year old wiring.

At leasts its dir3ct fit I wasted enough money and gas to get on3 of th3se already....