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Fuel Lines, Brake lines

Started by Lord Warlock, November 03, 2013, 11:47:24 PM

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Lord Warlock

Anyone have pics of how the fuel line and brake lines are supposed to be routed under the car?  I bought all new stainless steel lines, but as I started looking at the brake lines up front, they're pretty tightly mounted around the frame to the brake lines going to the front discs.  Definitely would be easier without an engine in the car.  More importantly is the fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel pump, I don't trust the old line, it likely has varnish inside from old gas, I'll be dropping the tank shortly to empty it out and clean it in preparation for new gas, but will need to route the fuel lines all over again.  I'd hoped to take it to a shop and let them do it on a lift, but cash is tight now so may have to do it myself. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

The Mopar Kid

I'm in the process of doing the same thing. I got all new lines everywhere, and thankfully there is no drivetrain in it.
Unfortunately I have no reference as to how or where the lines are routed. maybe somebody has a routing diagram....

Dino

I installed new fuel lines this summer while the car was on stands.  I have pics at home so I'll post them when I get there tonight.  Shoot me a pm if I forget.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Lord Warlock

appreciate any pics you can provide.  I don't relish crawling under the car to do this, but its one of those things that has to be done, I'm more concerned with stripping connectors in distribution blocks, but my first and primary interest is knowing where and how the line themselves are supposed to fit. I've seen some pics on the lines in the engine bay for the front brakes but little on the fuel lines or the rear to front brake lines.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Dino

Quote from: Lord Warlock on November 14, 2013, 12:37:48 PM
appreciate any pics you can provide.  I don't relish crawling under the car to do this, but its one of those things that has to be done, I'm more concerned with stripping connectors in distribution blocks, but my first and primary interest is knowing where and how the line themselves are supposed to fit. I've seen some pics on the lines in the engine bay for the front brakes but little on the fuel lines or the rear to front brake lines.

My engine is still in and the PO painted everything under the hood black. so it's not the clearest of pics.  I will try to get some good ones though.  I do have nice, clear pics of the new fuel lines and I 'll snap some of the rear brake lines.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Lord Warlock

Unfortunately,  my engine is in the car as well.  I pulled the original blown motor out in the early 80s and put in a replacement back when i was strong and limber, I doubt i'd be able to do another swap myself now in my mid 50s.  I was straining to lift the intake off the motor a few minutes ago, as I'm taking it down to the long block to paint it while its installed.  Won't look as nice as it would if i did it out of the car, but should look better than it is now.  At least the radiator to water pump housing will look better. 

Lucky for me the undercarriage on mine is 100% stock and has almost no rust on it as its been stored inside for 30 years.  Its got cobwebs and dust but its still got the stock paint underneath.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

hemi68charger

What car are we dealing with? Your '69 Charger ?

If there's no pictures taken by tomorrow, I'll take some. I have two '69's and I recently replaced all the lines in my '69 Charger 500......
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

Lord Warlock

Yes its with my 69 charger RT SE.  Need to update the fuel system, and brake system before i can get her back on the road again,  body, paint, interior are done, working on the engine bay now. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

hemi68charger

Here are some from my former '68 Charger R/T.. Should be pretty much the same.........

This is from my thread here on the board from the restoration of my '68 Hemi Charger R/T....  Starting on the top of page 6.....

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,45445.125.html
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

Dino

Well I didn't make it home until most people were in bed so I didn't look for the pics... I'll get them in here asap.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

Sorry it took so long.  Here's the pics of the fuel line.  I have the 3/8 line with 1/4 return and used the clips from Megaparts as it came with the small 'S' clips.

The car is on tall jack stands, I think the bottom of the rocker panel is a little over 20" off the ground.  You don't need a ton of room but you need to be fairly comfy under there.  Since I need to replace my shocks I removed them and to get even better access I removed the exhaust hangers in the back so I have some wiggle room.  With stands under the frame you can put a jack under the rear and lower it.  The lines will be in place within minutes.  I hope yours fit real nice because bending stainless is not easy.  There's margin for error though.  The lines don't have to run in the same identical place as the stock lines.  Just make sure they are tucked as close to the frame as you can get them and have them secure to the frame and each other.  

I have some pictures of the brake lines going to the back, I just can't get a decent picture of the fronts without more disassembly.  What pics specifically do you need?  I'll see if I can find some.


Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

more
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

sgt72charger

im in the same boat looking for more pics as well
Sgt Burgos K.J.  USMC
/Oo ___A___ oO\
|=_/________\=|

tsmithae

Check out my full thread and progress here.

http://www.1970chargerregistry.com/mboard/index.php?topic=119.0

Lord Warlock

Keep em coming, all the pics that are added will help myself and others as they do theirs.  Thanks for adding these. 

How do we get to the distribution block under the master cylinder, IF the motor is still in the car?  is it accessible?  or do we need to remove the booster to gain access?  While under the car this weekend, I followed the brake line that attaches to the firewall, and could get that one off if i can reach the distribution block.  I'm pretty sure the lines go to the block and from the block up to the master cylinder. 

Really makes me wish the motor was out right now, it would make this much much simpler, but i'm not planning on yanking it just to put new lines in.  When i got the new lines, I didn't get any new clips
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Dino

I need to replace my distribution block with a combo valve and yes with the engine , and steering column, in place it will be quite the challenge.

The best way to get to the front distribution block is to remove the starter shield and get access from underneath.  The more you can remove the better.  If I remove my ds header and the steering chuck, I would have tons more access.  I may have to do so.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Lord Warlock

Spent some time today taking off the front to rear brake line and putting the new one in place, without hooking it up to anything other than the clips holding it in place.  Also ran the right side front brake line from the wheelwell to the distribution block area.  My car had two distribution blocks, or one distribution block and one hold off valve that goes from the distribution block to the rear wheels,  the problem with that part is that the new line looks to be long enough to reach the main distribution block without going to the hold off valve, the original had the distribution block with a line that ran about 10 inches to the hold off valve.  The pics from the 70 charger (orange one) uses a different hold off valve than mine has, my hold off is a small texas shaped unit with a front port and rear facing port, neither of the pictures show a unit like mine. 

Do people just eliminate the rear hold off? and run the line directly to the distribution block?  My car has stock front discs and rear drums.  The hose that runs from the f/r line to the rear distribution block is old and doesn't look adequate to survive long, so I'll have to remove that piece, but the block attached to the rear axle is covered in dirt/undercoating/spiderwebs etc I'm a little paranoid trying to remove the rear axle lines at this point.

Have to get a wheel puller to yank the left rear drum off, my two prong puller can't reach around the drum, so looks like the rental shop may be needed.  Have two studs in the rear wheel that have dropped inside the drum, so have to get it off to get them out and hopefully get them back into the axle holes. 

One good thing about having the rear wheel off and the back end jacked up is that i can see the bolts to drop the gas tank.  Another task that needs to be done
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lord Warlock

found another thread showing the hookups to the proportioning valves, so won't need that anymore.  Looks like i'll be ordering more parts. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.