Steering wheel alignment

[bull]

Since there's a dead link at both ends of the steering shaft there's no way to pull the wheel and put it back on straight unless you do what a couple of "experts" have advised me to do (take a hacksaw to the dead link ). From what I've heard the correct way is to basically do the alignment and then start working the tie rods to one side or the other to align the wheel while finishing with the toe in. Is this how it's done? That's what I've been told by a couple of local guys who've restored several 2nd gens.

I already had the car aligned and so I basically wasted $55. The ride height was where I wanted it when I went in and that got screwed up, and of course  the steering wheel was 90 degrees off. I called them back to ask about fixing it and that's when they mentioned the hacksaw. This is a reputable shop that's been around for years. Another reputable shop I called in the next town said the same thing. No, dummy, I'm not using a hacksaw. They didn't need a hacksaw at the factory.

[A383Wing]

What I have done in the past it take a small round file and file out the large spline on the steering wheel. Then you can put the wheel on any spline to make it line up. Filing out one spline is not gonna hurt anything

But yea, doing an alignment is the "correct" way to solve this.

[tan top]

 jack up front , support lower control arms on jack stands ,
inside car turn steering wheel from lock to lock ( hard right to hard left ) , noting how many turns it takes to set the steering wheel to the centre , ie same amount of turns each way ! the steering wheel should be / will be straight !
 remove  cotter / split pins & undo nut (D) both sides ,
undo clamps (B) both sides
unpop/split outer tie rod rod ends (C) both sides & remove from lower ball joint arm (E) , make sure the steering wheel is still centralised & not moved from the above procedure ,
screw (A) steering arm/ tube so the same amount of threads are showing on both inner tie rod ends (F) then do the same with the outer tie rod ends (C) same amount of threads each side .
then with suitable angle iron straight edge with a helper run it through the centre of both tires , the tires should be touching front & back each wheel , ( turn front wheels to adjust as necessary , repeat both sides , that's setting the wheels parallel !  then with out moving the wheels , adjust the outer tie rod ends (C) by screwing them in or out on the steering arm sleeves (A) & by screwing the sleeve (A) in or out on the inner tie rod end , (F)  so that the outer tie rod end (C)fits back in (E) lower ball joint arm.
to do this  
screw the  tie rods ends in or out on the sleeves same both sides , aim for just over  half of the threads inside the sleeves , then wind the tie rods in or out on the steering arm sleeves  to make it fit  !!!  DON'T move wheels or steering centre link to make it fit ,
once fitted  , tighten all clamps & bolts , refit  split / cotter pins !
the steering wheel  will now be centralised & wheels parallel  , now get alignment done

[cdr]

if you move the stg wheel then your turn signal cancel cam will be out of sink with the stg wheel  

[A383Wing]

if you move the stg wheel then your turn signal cancel cam will be out of sink with the stg wheel  

no it won't...the cancel pin goes where the steering wheel goes...if wheel is centered where it's supposed to be, the cancel pin will be in correct location as well

[bull]

Wow, thanks Tan Top. That's how it was explained to me on the phone but you really need a reference if you've never done it before.

[cdr]

if you move the stg wheel then your turn signal cancel cam will be out of sink with the stg wheel  

no it won't...the cancel pin goes where the steering wheel goes...if wheel is centered where it's supposed to be, the cancel pin will be in correct location as well

guess i been workin on gm's to long. SORRY for my bad information