Question for the engine builders

[chargd72]

I'm planning on getting a 360/426 stroker kit from Hughes.  Per their instruction guide, they want you to make oil passage mods to the block.  But then they say that's if you're using a standard volume pump.  If I'm using a high volume pump, windage and deep pan, do I still need to get these mods done?  I will be using a magnum block.

This is from their instruction guide:


Many times the mounting surface for the oil pump on the main cap is not level. Grind or mill it flat and do
not use a gasket. The oil passage from the pump does not line up with the passage in the main cap. Grind out this
"stepover" area in the cap to prevent a restriction here. The 360" is worse than the 340". Restrict the oil flow
through cam bearings #1 - #3 - #5 only by drilling a new 1/8" oil hole in the cam bearing and then install bearing
with this new, smaller hole aligned with the feed passage from the mains. Run a straight ¼" reamer(our P/N 8350)
completely through the main bearing oil feed passages #1 -#3 - #5 coming down from the right hand lifter oil
galley. Run a 9/32" reamer (P/N 8352) completely through the #2 - #4 main bearing feed passages. The intersection
of the large threaded oil passage, from the center of the oil filter to the main passage running to the rear of the block
is very rough in many cases. Smooth out all the rough spots and sharp edges in the intersection. Do not attempt to
drill the passages deeper.
If you are using our main stud girdle, it needs to clear all rotating parts by .030".
A standard volume oil pump will supply enough oil to a 650 HP engine with the above modifications, a
windage tray and 5 quarts of oil in the pan. We suggest our oil pan P/N 6104 for 340's and P/N 6107 for 360's;
both use screen, P/N #6907. Position SCREEN 1/4" to 5/16" from the bottom of the pan. Oil pressure of 9# per
1000 RPM is adequate. Maximum pressure over 65 P.S.I. is not recommended.

[Dino]

I'm planning on getting a 360/426 stroker kit from Hughes.  Per their instruction guide, they want you to make oil passage mods to the block.  But then they say that's if you're using a standard volume pump.  If I'm using a high volume pump, windage and deep pan, do I still need to get these mods done?  I will be using a magnum block.

This is from their instruction guide:


Many times the mounting surface for the oil pump on the main cap is not level. Grind or mill it flat and do
not use a gasket. The oil passage from the pump does not line up with the passage in the main cap. Grind out this
"stepover" area in the cap to prevent a restriction here. The 360" is worse than the 340". Restrict the oil flow
through cam bearings #1 - #3 - #5 only by drilling a new 1/8" oil hole in the cam bearing and then install bearing
with this new, smaller hole aligned with the feed passage from the mains. Run a straight ¼" reamer(our P/N 8350)
completely through the main bearing oil feed passages #1 -#3 - #5 coming down from the right hand lifter oil
galley. Run a 9/32" reamer (P/N 8352) completely through the #2 - #4 main bearing feed passages. The intersection
of the large threaded oil passage, from the center of the oil filter to the main passage running to the rear of the block
is very rough in many cases. Smooth out all the rough spots and sharp edges in the intersection. Do not attempt to
drill the passages deeper.
If you are using our main stud girdle, it needs to clear all rotating parts by .030".
A standard volume oil pump will supply enough oil to a 650 HP engine with the above modifications, a
windage tray and 5 quarts of oil in the pan. We suggest our oil pan P/N 6104 for 340's and P/N 6107 for 360's;
both use screen, P/N #6907. Position SCREEN 1/4" to 5/16" from the bottom of the pan. Oil pressure of 9# per
1000 RPM is adequate. Maximum pressure over 65 P.S.I. is not recommended.

If the oil passages don't line up I would probably want that fixed regardless of the pump.  That said, I'd give those guys a call and straight up ask them what to do.

[rt green]

if they say use  standard pump, then get one. they probably don't want two oil flows running into each other and cavatating or trying to keep the oil from foaming over 65 psi.

[Challenger340]

That information is from Hughes
Seems like an awefully convoluted way to approach things ?
I agree with the Mis-alignment between #5 Main Cap and the Block, IMO, it should be checked & corrected on all builds.

But as for #1,3,5 Cam Bearings, all I ever do is purposely mis-Align them ever so slightly, and put #2 & #4 in perfectly aligned as possible ?
I got lots of 600-700 hp small block 408-422" strokers out there.... I have had for years, and I ain't going to start worry'ing about them now just because Hughes says so
I just finished another 422" last week, Dyno'd it on Thursday, was good for 600hp, 565 ft/lbs Torque on 91 Octane(pump Gas), all I ever use is the std Melling HV Pump, works for me, although yes, takes more power to turn the HV but so what.

[chargd72]

That information is from Hughes
Seems like an awefully convoluted way to approach things ?
I agree with the Mis-alignment between #5 Main Cap and the Block, IMO, it should be checked & corrected on all builds.

But as for #1,3,5 Cam Bearings, all I ever do is purposely mis-Align them ever so slightly, and put #2 & #4 in perfectly aligned as possible ?
I got lots of 600-700 hp small block 408-422" strokers out there.... I have had for years, and I ain't going to start worry'ing about them now just because Hughes says so
I just finished another 422" last week, Dyno'd it on Thursday, was good for 600hp, 565 ft/lbs Torque on 91 Octane(pump Gas), all I ever use is the std Melling HV Pump, works for me, although yes, takes more power to turn the HV but so what.

Thanks 340.  That's what I was thinking.  How have all these similar strokers been surviving if that is how it needs to be done.  Do you have any other feedback on block prep?  This is my first stroker build.