News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Don's 69 Charger Rust Belt restoration

Started by mopar4don, September 01, 2013, 08:34:55 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

mopar4don

pic1   I then inserted the tube into the column and slid the spring over the end

pic2-3     then I slid the lower bearing on and bolted it up

mopar4don

Next I inserted the shaft. Don't do it like I did or you will have to unbolt the lower bearing and slide it over the shaft and then re-bolt it to the column (because of the drive dogs on the shaft)  :brickwall:

mopar4don

pic 1    This side of the column is most of the work

pic 2    First the lower collar goes on

pic 3    then the upper

pic 4    here are the parts we need to assemble

mopar4don

pic1     start with the c-clip (this helps to prevent the upper bearing from going to far)

pic2     next on is the upper bearing. (I applied a light coat of grease to help it slide)

pic3     next I carefully tapped the bearing into place.
           In this pic I used the old bearing against the new bearing along with a deep well socket, this way I was pushing on the inner race.


mopar4don

pic1-3    next is the upper retaining clip

pic4       then the bearing insulator goes on over the bearing

pic5       next is the hardest part! bolting the collars together. This may take a lot of trial and error to get it right

mopar4don

pic1   then the turn signal switch goes in held by the retainer

pic2   next I put the wire cover on

pic3   and the lower black plastic cover

mopar4don

Now for the wiring the new plug.
I referred back to pics I had when I disassembled the plug and to be absolutely sure I looked at the schematic to be sure the way it was correct!

mopar4don

pic1    Then I bolted on the column bracket

pic2    and put on a temporary steering wheel and the firewall bracket and wrapped it up in plastic and put it away for safe keeping.
          I will put the rag joint on when it goes in the car.

CDN72SE

1972 Charger SE


VegasCharger

Quote from: mopar4don on July 25, 2018, 10:22:21 AM
pic1-3    next is the upper retaining clip

pic4       then the bearing insulator goes on over the bearing

pic5       next is the hardest part! bolting the collars together. This may take a lot of trial and error to get it right

Boy, ain't that the truth!

Nice work Don. :2thumbs:


mopar4don

Here are some before and after pics of the door mechanism hardware.
I used Evaporust to clean them up. To finish them off I touched them up with steel wool, and coated them with RPM

mopar4don

I started the tear down and restoration of my grill. This is what I started with.
It looks good from 40 feet, but it has some problems that need fixing.

mopar4don

more...

mopar4don

I have an extra set of doors, but as you can see, the drivers side stops are broken off. From what I understand this is a common problem.
Apparently with the weight of the badges its to much and eventually they break off.

timmycharger

Good starting point on your grille!


Check out page 10 of my build, I used methods I found from here on the site!


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,119572.0.html

mopar4don

Thanks timmycharger, I will check it out

Stevearino

You are leaving no stone unturned Don. Very thorough . :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:

mopar4don

Here is a pic of the pass side bucket and where it broke

mopar4don

So my plan was to prep all of the plastic pieces (I used a dremel to 45 all edges and crack lines. I also drilled a hole at the end of the crack. This will stop the crack from continuing) and then to create a slurry using ABS shavings and acetone. Then using the slurry to fill in all of the cracks and holes.

timmycharger

 :cheers:  Great idea with the holes and using the dremel!  With the Slurry, if you can find an air tight container, you can leave it in there and use it later on as it will still stay fresh as long as no air gets to it.  :Twocents:

mopar4don

So i had some problems with the ABS slurry not sticking to the original plastic. And had to come up with a new plan.
Other people have used a 2 part epoxy with good success, so after a friend recommended 3M semi rigid plastic repair
I went ahead with it.

mopar4don

I started with the easy areas and gradually worked up to the harder spots.

mopar4don

So the drivers side bucket was a challenge. It had a piece that was completely broken.
pic1

The challenge was how to hold it at the 90 degree end
seen in pic2