73 Charger 440 A/C condenser installation(what am I missing?)

[nge]

I have an original 400 cu a/c  car but the previous owner removed all of the undehood a/c components.  I have a new condenser and new brackets.
However, when the condenser is installed in place, the bottom condenser studs don't protrude through the frame holes.  If I drop the condenser down so that it rests on the frame, I can bolt it in, but then the hose fittings at the top of the condenser can't get over the radiator support. the whole thing is 1 inch too low.
I guess my question is...does the condenser rest down onto the frame?  Or did Dodge use spacers under the condenser.  The repair manual pic is lacking some detail in this area
thanks
victor

[69chargerboy]

Hi Victor, I have a 73 SE with a 318 and factory air. I know there will be some differences, but would you like me to send you pics of my stock setup? John

[1973rallye]

Let me start with what you replaced the missing components with;

Factory set up, or aftermarket?

I ran with a Classic Air system but I found the condenser input line did not fit over the top of the rad support. It would have required me to cut a 2 inch hole through the support to run it to the condenser.

I went with the factory condenser line and it lined up and fit perfectly with the new condenser which I might add appears to just drop into and through the holes in the lower support.

Hope this helps. Ray

[frogman73]

[ODZKing]

Let me start with what you replaced the missing components with;

Factory set up, or aftermarket?

I ran with a Classic Air system but I found the condenser input line did not fit over the top of the rad support. It would have required me to cut a 2 inch hole through the support to run it to the condenser.

I went with the factory condenser line and it lined up and fit perfectly with the new condenser which I might add appears to just drop into and through the holes in the lower support.

Hope this helps. Ray

I also have a 73 400 and similar issues.  I also got the Classic Auto Air system and there wasn't one thing that didn't need to be modified. The condenser surprisingly went rather smoothly except for the bolts/screw size is 1/4-28, NOT 20 as the factory one was. They supply no hardware.
All the lines needed some tweeking and at present I only have this pic. But as I recall the condenser sat on the lower frame.  If you would like more pics of stuff that didn't fit let me know.  This kit they sent (I believe) is for an E body and someone over there decided it is close enough for B bodys. The instructions that came with it are also useless.

[nge]

Hey I know you, I emailed you last month and asked you about the a/c system...your site has been a godsend
Amen on the instructions!

I feel better knowing that its not just me...I think the line is OK but the condenser is a little off and the line is a just little off as well. but they add up to a 1 inch mismatch
I'll avoid making the hole in the rad support and just figure out how to raise it higher.
more pics would be helpful...I check out your website regularly so I'll look there!
Thanks for the support!
vic

[ODZKing]

Hey I know you, I emailed you last month and asked you about the a/c system...your site has been a godsend
Amen on the instructions!

I feel better knowing that its not just me...I think the line is OK but the condenser is a little off and the line is a just little off as well. but they add up to a 1 inch mismatch
I'll avoid making the hole in the rad support and just figure out how to raise it higher.
more pics would be helpful...I check out your website regularly so I'll look there!
Thanks for the support!
vic

I hope I e-mailed you back!!!    Been crazy around here.
I will send some specific pics if you like.
And don't get me started about CAA.   

[1973rallye]

Let me start with what you replaced the missing components with;

Factory set up, or aftermarket?

I ran with a Classic Air system but I found the condenser input line did not fit over the top of the rad support. It would have required me to cut a 2 inch hole through the support to run it to the condenser.

I went with the factory condenser line and it lined up and fit perfectly with the new condenser which I might add appears to just drop into and through the holes in the lower support.

Hope this helps. Ray

I also have a 73 400 and similar issues.  I also got the Classic Auto Air system and there wasn't one thing that didn't need to be modified. The condenser surprisingly went rather smoothly except for the bolts/screw size is 1/4-28, NOT 20 as the factory one was. They supply no hardware.
All the lines needed some tweeking and at present I only have this pic. But as I recall the condenser sat on the lower frame.  If you would like more pics of stuff that didn't fit let me know.  This kit they sent (I believe) is for an E body and someone over there decided it is close enough for B bodys. The instructions that came with it are also useless.

They did send me a E body condenser originally and made it right when I contacted them, so I have an extra E body condenser. Other than that, as I said, I had to use the factory fittings for the condenser as I could not make what they provided work. The dryer connection is perfect. Guess we all end up with issues here and there.

[nge]

1973 Rallye,
That reminds me did you use a pressure switchon the drier?  They did not include one with the kit, and when I called them, they said i didnt really need it. I'm not sure what to do?
Thanks
Vic

[ODZKing]

They did send me a E body condenser originally and made it right when I contacted them, so I have an extra E body condenser. Other than that, as I said, I had to use the factory fittings for the condenser as I could not make what they provided work. The dryer connection is perfect. Guess we all end up with issues here and there.

How can you tell if it is E or B body?

[nge]

Double check me, but the B body had both lines on the passenger side.  E body has the fitting for the top condenser line routed around the battery

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

You really do need the low pressure cut-off switch on the receiver/drier. If for some reason the refrigerant pressure drops below the point where you don't have enough refrigerant to carry oil around the system you will grind the new aluminum axial type compressors into aluminum powder. Newer compressors depend on oil carried by the refrigerant to lubricate them. I'm really surprised Classic Air would say you really don't need the pressure cut-off switch unless they have some other protection mechanism in their system. You might want to ask them how the compressor clutch is turned off in their system if the refrigerant level drops too low.

[1973rallye]

1973 Rallye,
That reminds me did you use a pressure switchon the drier?  They did not include one with the kit, and when I called them, they said i didnt really need it. I'm not sure what to do?
Thanks
Vic

Yes

[1973rallye]

They did send me a E body condenser originally and made it right when I contacted them, so I have an extra E body condenser. Other than that, as I said, I had to use the factory fittings for the condenser as I could not make what they provided work. The dryer connection is perfect. Guess we all end up with issues here and there.

How can you tell if it is E or B body?

The condenser you have is same as the one I received after sending CA jpg's of the correct placement of the connections on the passenger side. The one they sent me had the connect for the condenser line and dryer line on the drivers side.
I noticed that in your photo that your condenser line is not connected. I had the same issue. The solution which I did not take was to drill a hole through the top of the support so you could feed the line to the condenser. Two issues were, no way no how was I going to do any drilling, and if I did you need to lose the coolant overflow bottle in the process. So I went to a local bone yard and picked up the correct condenser line (aluminum I believe)and my A/C shop connected it to the CA hose. Everything fits and looks the way it should apart from the CA compressor.