Cam break-in with rebuilt trans???

[steves66]

I am putting my Charger back together and need to get some advice. I rebuilt my engine and transmission with a new J&W 10" convertor. My question is during the cam shaft break-in what precautions should I take with the trans being new with a new convertor? The convertor instructions say to add 1/4 qt. to the convertor when installing and add 4 qts to the trans, start the car without reving and add another 5 qts or more until full. Well the car has to be reved up to about 2500 rpm to break the cam in!  What is the correct way to do this? All my experience has been with manual trans, so please excuse my ignorance.

[John_Kunkel]

The most important thing is to be sure to make the initial startup with the shifter in Neutral, NOT PARK. I would start with more than 4 quarts in the trans, I start with 6 if the pan is stock depth, more if it has a deep pan.

After pouring the initial 6 quarts in the trans, leave the funnel in the filler tube and add another 2-3 quarts as soon as possible while the cam is breaking in, this will prevent the pump from running dry. When the engine speed can be be reduced to idle, check the fluid level (in Neutral) with the dipstick and adjust as necessary.

If the car has an oversized cooler, you might want to add more than 2-3 quarts while the cam is breaking in.

[steves66]

Thanks John. I put a 2-1/2 qt deeper pan on the trans, so I guess I should start with about 8 qts initially, correct? I don't have a oversize  cooler, just an aluminum radiator with the cooler in it.
Another question. I bought a J&W 10" converter and I am having a lot of trouble getting it on. I get it started and it goes about an 1" and then stops solid, I wiggle it a little and rotate it, and push, wiggle some more, rotate some more, but it won't go no further. I tried to put my stock converter on and it went on with no problem. I read the J&W instructions and they said that their tolerances are much greater than OEM equipment, so you will have to work a littler harder than normal to get their converter on! They also said that people return them all of the time saying that the hole is too small for the input shaft, but J&W says that is not the case they just fit a lot more tighter. Any tips for getting these things on?

[Ghoste]

Coat the seal and hub with trans fluid.  Note which way the drive tangs are on your stock one when it slides on easily and make sure the new one is going in the same way.  Those are probably the easy and obvious ones but there are likely slicker ideas out there.

[John_Kunkel]

If the converter refuses to go in, tip the trans up and stand it on its tailshaft; a couple of long bolts in two converter holes will make a handle to manipulate the converter with.

When the converter is fully seated the face of the drive lugs will be at least 1/2" in from the front face of the bellhousing.

[firefighter3931]

Thanks John....those are great tips ! 

Ron