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Starting a engine that has sat for 7 years.

Started by cudaken, June 03, 2013, 08:25:04 PM

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cudaken


Well I am back and and getting ready to start my 68 Road Runner after sitting for 7 years.

Good news, all the fluids are where they should be. My plan of action.

1 Pull the plugs and fill the holes with Marvel Mystery Oil.

2 Oil Change

3 Pull intake and see what is living or died in the motor.

4 Install new fuel pump and run fresh gas from a gas can.

5 Pre-lube the motor with Mobile 1

6 Break in lube on the cam.

7 Fire her up.

On Pre-lubing, here is my questions.

1 How long should I Pre-lube?

2 Should I turn the engine over say 1/4 turn and re-lube, then turn again till I get her around 360 degrees?

3 If the answer to 2 is turn the engine 360 degrees before start up, best way to mark the oil pump drive gear?

For the people that do not know my screen name, it is a BB in my 68 Road Runner.

Should I worry about the 727 as well?

Cuda Ken
I am back

ws23rt

If you mean by pre lube that you are driving the pump with dist. out. Than oil is every where it should be. Any turn of the crank while you do this is as good as it gets.

charge69

When you are starting it up for the first time in a while, get the back wheels off the ground and put the tranny in neutral. If it was me, I would change the transmission fluid and filter before firing it up also. YMMV

Cooter

Quote from: cudaken on June 03, 2013, 08:25:04 PM

Well I am back and and getting ready to start my 68 Road Runner after sitting for 7 years.

Good news, all the fluids are where they should be. My plan of action.

1 Pull the plugs and fill the holes with Marvel Mystery Oil.I wouldn't "fill" the holes, but I would pour a little in there.

2 Oil Change

3 Pull intake and see what is living or died in the motor.If rat piss/sh*t is found, you can count on it smoking for a little bit.

4 Install new fuel pump and run fresh gas from a gas can.

5 Pre-lube the motor with Mobile 1

6 Break in lube on the cam.

7 Fire her up.

On Pre-lubing, here is my questions.

1 How long should I Pre-lube?I give it bout 5 min. with drill.

2 Should I turn the engine over say 1/4 turn and re-lube, then turn again till I get her around 360 degrees? Yes, but I would just rotate engine four revolutions to where your back where your were when you removed the distributor.

3 If the answer to 2 is turn the engine 360 degrees before start up, best way to mark the oil pump drive gear?Look at where the rotor button is POINTING on the distributor, mark it on the dist. then remove. However, make sure you follow directions above.

For the people that do not know my screen name, it is a BB in my 68 Road Runner.

Should I worry about the 727 as well?Yes, Change fluid/filter at least. Check for water in pan.

Cuda Ken
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ACUDANUT

It all depends on where it was stored.  Inside, Outside ect.  I have seen many cars sit idle for longer than that fire right up with some gas down the carb.  :Twocents:

cudaken

 She has sat outside all this time and I never sat her up for long term storage.

Does Neil or Fire Fighter still come to this site?

Cuda Ken
I am back

JB400

Yes, they still do.  Both are still mods. :2thumbs:

cudaken

I am back

tan top

 like all whats been mentioned , :coolgleamA: :2thumbs:


also i would have a 3 second squart of WD40 in each cylinder , let it sit for a few days , then do it again , then turn motor over by a breaker bar with no plugs in , in direction of rotation a number of times ,
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

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firefighter3931

Is it running yet ?  :slap: :lol:

Hey Ken, good to see you back in the fold  :icon_smile_big:  You have been missed !

With regards to the initial fire-up ;

-Fill the carb bowls with fuel though the vent tubes....this will give you enough to get it going and run for a minute or two. Then you'll need a fuel supply.

-Pre-lube with the priming rod using an electric drill rotating counterclockwise. Once the pump picks up prime you will feel the drill bog down.  :yesnod: You can pull the valvecovers and look at the rocker arms for signs of oil. This often takes time and may require several rotations of the motor to get oil to both heads.

Other than that you are on the right track  :2thumbs:

Looking forward to hearing Ms Lumpy roar back to life  :cheers:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

cudaken


Ron, do you think I need to turn the motor by hand first? Any tips on marking the oil pump drive?

Hope to work on her some this Saturday. Mainly get some oil down the holes and a little cleaning.

Ken
I am back

firefighter3931

Quote from: cudaken on June 06, 2013, 07:26:35 PM

Ron, do you think I need to turn the motor by hand first? Any tips on marking the oil pump drive?

Hope to work on her some this Saturday. Mainly get some oil down the holes and a little cleaning.

Ken

Ken, it wouldn't hurt to turn the motor over by hand just to make sure everything moves freely. Once the drill bogs down when you're priming you will have to rotate the engine over a little at a time to line up the rocker oiling. Remember that on a stock oiling system the oil feed to the rockers is timed and there is no full time oiling unless you are using an Indy aluminum casting with external oil lines.  ;)

To line up the oil pump drive just bring the motor to TDC with #1 at the top of the bore and install the pump drive with the slot facing the same direction as the cam.....parallel to the cam if you will. This is how they came assembled from the factory.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

cudaken

To line up the oil pump drive just bring the motor to TDC with #1 at the top of the bore and install the pump drive with the slot facing the same direction as the cam.....parallel to the cam if you will. This is how they came assembled from the factory.

  :2thumbs:

That's what I needed Ron. By the way which direction do I want the rotor facing?

Ken
I am back

Cooter

Quote from: cudaken on June 07, 2013, 07:24:04 PM
To line up the oil pump drive just bring the motor to TDC with #1 at the top of the bore and install the pump drive with the slot facing the same direction as the cam.....parallel to the cam if you will. This is how they came assembled from the factory.

 :2thumbs:

That's what I needed Ron. By the way which direction do I want the rotor facing?

Ken

This has been a debate for years. In all the FSM's I've read, the rotor button should be pointing towards the #1 Piston [At TDC] when installed correctly per factory spec. This however is RARELY done when trying to work on a car that's over 40 years old.

One can line up the Oil pump shaft at any one of MANY different ways. You can install the distributor once the oil pump shaft is at a chosen position however, one of two ways 'In', or '180' Out.
Only problem with this is if you are trying to get it back where you were before starting/priming/turning the engine with the distributor already wired previously.

Not a problem if you get it 'off', just rewire the distributor in the 'new' position you have installed it at. (This is only a problem if you have pre-cut wires, are certain lengths and MUST go back on the cap where they were. In this case, you need refer to previous instructions on making sure you mark EVERYTHING including the rotor when removing in order to install it right back in correctly).
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

ACUDANUT