'70 Bulkhead Connector/Wiring Help Please

[imabozo]

Hi guys,

I'm new to the Charger game, so please forgive my obvious lack of knowledge. I was troubleshooting some electrical issues last night (70 Charger R/T) and found a blown inline fuse, 15A/Glass, between the battery and the bulkhead connector going through the firewall. While pulling the fuse out, the wire either slipped out or broke off of the connector. This particular wire is not original and is a heavier gauge than the rest. It looks like there is a terminator or connector left in the hole for the wire. I'm looking for any info on how the wires are terminated in this bulkhead connector. I don't want to play around too much and disturb or break the connectors. Are the braided ends just inserted in the connector? Or are there crimp-on pieces that I should place on the end of the wire before inserting in the bulkhead connector. Also, it looks like these bulkhead connectors are in three sections, or perhaps its just my eyes. Can they be pried apart for a closer look? I'm not sure how much pressure to apply before something breaks.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Steve

[RECHRGD]

Assuming the bulkhead is the same as on a '68, three harnesses hook to it via male terminals crimped to the wires going into the connectors.  The connectors can be removed from the bulkhead by pulling the locking tabs outward while pulling on the connector.  If someone attached a larger wire to the terminal it probably was not crimped properly.  The terminals are a pain to deal with (just did it myself) as they lock into the connector body.  They can be removed by using a small screw driver to push the male tab to the side a little, and push or pull it out of the connector.  The terminal are called a Packard 56 or T 56 style.  I found some at my local Napa.  They use a special crimper that is pretty spendy if you can even find one.  I was able to get a good crimp on mine after destroy four terminals and emptying mt tool box.  Good Luck, Bob

[Chryco Psycho]

sounds like the battery feed wire has melted in the past & it has Benn FIXED using a bypass wire with an inline fuse . The more normal route is to use a short piece of fusable link in the wire instead of a glass fuse but ither will protect the circuit , 15 amp may be too low rating for the load on the wire though .

[imabozo]

Assuming the bulkhead is the same as on a '68, three harnesses hook to it via male terminals crimped to the wires going into the connectors.  The connectors can be removed from the bulkhead by pulling the locking tabs outward while pulling on the connector.  If someone attached a larger wire to the terminal it probably was not crimped properly.  The terminals are a pain to deal with (just did it myself) as they lock into the connector body.  They can be removed by using a small screw driver to push the male tab to the side a little, and push or pull it out of the connector.  The terminal are called a Packard 56 or T 56 style.  I found some at my local Napa.  They use a special crimper that is pretty spendy if you can even find one.  I was able to get a good crimp on mine after destroy four terminals and emptying mt tool box.  Good Luck, Bob

Thanks. Is this the male connector?

[imabozo]

sounds like the battery feed wire has melted in the past & it has Benn FIXED using a bypass wire with an inline fuse . The more normal route is to use a short piece of fusable link in the wire instead of a glass fuse but ither will protect the circuit , 15 amp may be too low rating for the load on the wire though .

I'll have to refer back to the wiring diagram for the correct fuse size (15A), although a few accessories (electric fuel pump...) have been added since the factory.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

If that 15 amp fuse is indeed in the battery feed line between the battery and dashboard ammeter it is way too low in current rating. The factory wiring calls for a Blue fusible Link, which is a piece of #16 wire of a specified length. This would likely melt somewhere in the 50 to 60 amp range. The issue with fusible links is it is hard to predict exactly at what point they will melt and open up. Sounds like so many other 40 year old cars there have been some modifications to the electrical system. There have been many recent posts in this section about this circuit and issues with it. Look down in this section about burnt ammeters and volmeter conversions and you'll get an idea about what's going on with this circuit and bulkhead connectors as well as ideas to update this section of wiring. Also, a factory shop manual is a good place to begin in seeing how your car should be wired and what changes have been made.

[RECHRGD]

Assuming the bulkhead is the same as on a '68, three harnesses hook to it via male terminals crimped to the wires going into the connectors.  The connectors can be removed from the bulkhead by pulling the locking tabs outward while pulling on the connector.  If someone attached a larger wire to the terminal it probably was not crimped properly.  The terminals are a pain to deal with (just did it myself) as they lock into the connector body.  They can be removed by using a small screw driver to push the male tab to the side a little, and push or pull it out of the connector.  The terminal are called a Packard 56 or T 56 style.  I found some at my local Napa.  They use a special crimper that is pretty spendy if you can even find one.  I was able to get a good crimp on mine after destroy four terminals and emptying mt tool box.  Good Luck, Bob

Thanks. Is this the male connector?

That be the one!

[imabozo]

Hi,

If that 15 amp fuse is indeed in the battery feed line between the battery and dashboard ammeter it is way too low in current rating. The factory wiring calls for a Blue fusible Link, which is a piece of #16 wire of a specified length. This would likely melt somewhere in the 50 to 60 amp range. The issue with fusible links is it is hard to predict exactly at what point they will melt and open up. Sounds like so many other 40 year old cars there have been some modifications to the electrical system. There have been many recent posts in this section about this circuit and issues with it. Look down in this section about burnt ammeters and volmeter conversions and you'll get an idea about what's going on with this circuit and bulkhead connectors as well as ideas to update this section of wiring. Also, a factory shop manual is a good place to begin in seeing how your car should be wired and what changes have been made.

Thanks for the info. I'll start reading a few more threads that you've mentioned. I have a shop manual on the way. Appreciate the help.

[imabozo]

I picked up some material today, including the Packard 56 connectors. Napa part 725145 Male and 725147 Female. I also picked up a few maxi fuses and inline holder. I think I'll try to wire in a 20A maxi fuse first, if that doesn't work, I'll try 30A. I only bought the Charger a few weeks ago, which came with a 15A ATO fuse in place of the fusible link. I had it out for a few separate runs and it was OK, so I think the maxi fuse should work out, unless I have bigger issues.

In addition, I managed to find a couple 16 gauge fusible links, but that will be plan c due to the rewiring factor.

On a last note, removing the old connector/terminator from the bulkhead was not pleasant. I'm lucky I didn't crack the connector.

Stay tuned for results.

[Budnicks]

make sure when taking apart the bulkhead connectors, especially in the engine bay side, they can be very brittle, from being exposed to heat & weather for decades, be careful go slow, be patient... Also before reassembly make sure to clean every connection very good, with a brass/bronze or stainless wire brush & maybe pipe cleaners, then spray out with electronics aerosol cleaner, then make sure to apply a small dab of dielectric grease on each connection, it will help stave off moisture & corrosion in the future... there is a great site that has some fixes for common Mopar's Amp Gauge problems & Bulkhead Connection Problems & Guage cluster problem etc.,  Mad Enterprises @ www.madelectrical.com , in their tech. section articles & fixes, they have some great products, relays, schematics, diagrams, switches & wire or connectors supplies too.... Good luck

[areibel]

Cool link, Thanks Budnicks!   

[Budnicks]

Cool link, Thanks Budnicks!   

your welcome...

[imabozo]

The Charger runs again! I spliced in a maxi fuse holder complete with 20A maxi fuse, I had to splice the #8 wire from the fuse holder to a #12 wire to the bulkhead connector. The Packard 56 connector wasn't that bad to crimp without the proper crisper. Put it in the vies and took my time with needle nose pliers and then a standard crimper. I cleaned up as much of the existing connections as I could, applied some dielectric grease before connecting to the bulkhead connector.

Fired up fine, tried the lights, and fans, no issues. Looks like problem solved for now. Not exactly factory, but functions well.

My first little Charger repair and I enjoyed every minute. Thanks for your help guys. Appreciate it. It helps build some confidence. A few days ago I had no idea about any of the wiring, now I know I can figure a few things out with help.

Steve