Trouble changing passenger side engine mount on 440....

[RECHRGD]

I've got all the bolts out of the bracket and mount, but when trying to jack up the engine it just starts raising the car.  The engine barely moves.  Do I have to remove the drivers side mount too?  Thanks Bob

[charger500rt71]

You may be missing one. look real careful on the back inside of the mount. loosen the trans mount so you don't damage it.

[RECHRGD]

Yea, there all out.  In fact, the engine dropped a hair when I got the last one out.  I'll loosen the trans mount, but doubt if that's my problem...

[JB400]

How are you trying to lift the engine?  Jack or engine hoist?

[RECHRGD]

The car is up on a four post lift.  I've got a two ton upright screw jack that I'm trying to lift the engine with.  The point of lift is under the oil pan with some wood planks to even out the load.....

[Cooter]

I assume you unhooked the exhaust? I had the headers still hooked up on mine and it wouldn't budge till I undid that fully welded exhaust.

[RECHRGD]

I assume you unhooked the exhaust? I had the headers still hooked up on mine and it wouldn't budge till I undid that fully welded exhaust.

Bingo!  Now I feel dumb.  I did manage to get the old one off.  Getting the new one on has been a fight.  When I get the forward bracket bolts in, I can't get the rear one to line up and vice/versa.  Tomorrow I'll undo the headers and get some more leverage.  Thanks.....

[RECHRGD]

Well, I thought for sure that after unhooking the headers from the exhaust, that it would be a breeze, but no such luck.  I got close to getting the rear bracket bolt in with the help of a crowbar, but not quite.  It looks like where the mount slips onto the K-Frame is about 3/8" farther to the rear that it should be, throwing the angle of the bracket holes off.  Weird!  Anyway there was a mount on there when I started, so I'll just try again tomorrow.  Good thing I'm a retired old fart......

[JB400]

Is your mount bent?

[moparsr2ast]

  Sometimes, it helps to loosen the bolts on the brackets attached to the block 

[Cooter]

Don't be too frustrated with YOUR efforts, as I've seen a couple times where I've actually seen "China" auto parts store holes dilled WAY off.

[Steve P.]

^^^^ And too small too.. Sometimes opening the hole a bit makes up for off center drilling.

[RECHRGD]

I'm thinking maybe the bracket is tweaked a bit.  I did open up the rear hole slightly, but it just won't line up.  Even with the engine jacked up a couple of inches and the bracket just flopping around.  I'm afraid to jack up the engine any more.  Seems funny if it really is tweaked.  It's an original piece and I've never run slicks.....

[Steve P.]

Your passenger side mount is NOT your torque side. Most passenger side mounts get changed due to age and rott. The drivers side is the one trying to be stretched all the time..

[RECHRGD]

The mount is fine.  The bracket is the issue.  The reason I am changing the mount, is that the engine was leaning 3 degrees down on the passenger side.  The new mount seems to have cured that except for the fact that the bracket bolts will not all go in at the same time......

[69wannabe]

You may want to take the long bolt out of the driver side so it has got some give instead of putting all the pressure on having just one mount loose. I have had to put a bolt in and leave it loose so the engine had some moving room to get the other bolts in and then had to go back and remove the driver side bolt and raise it up a little on that side to get the engine to settle into place. Usually have to do this while i'm putting the hedders on back and forth on both sides til the engine lines up and the bolts go through the k frame pretty straight. Once the engine is sitting where its close your bolts should go back through the block since it did come off of there. They are a pain in the rear no doubt!!!

[RECHRGD]

The plot thickens.....As suggested, I took out the drivers side bolt to give me more wiggle room.  When jacking up the engine the drivers side mount separated from the side bolted to the bracket.  If it was broken all the time, then why didn't it separate when I had it bolted in place and raising the engine?  All of these mounts seem to be made in Korea, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised by anything.  I've got a new set of PolyLok mounts that I tried a few years back and took off.  I didn't like the added stiffness / vibrations that the car had with them.  Maybe I'll try to put them back on.  If I try do to do Ron bolt trick on a stock mount, I'd probably screw that up too......

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I use the Schumacher torque strap



http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/InstructionPages/TorqueStrap.html

[RECHRGD]

That's a thought too!  Thanks.  I still have the bolts and stuff that I bought several years ago for the Ron fix.  Maybe this was meant to be.  I'm going to get a stock mount tomorrow and do the mods to it.  That still doesn't mean that I will be able to install it.

[RECHRGD]

I finally got the right side on.  Had to take out the two bolts from the tranny mount to the trans and slide the tailpiece a couple of inches to the side.  I'm leaving it all loose until I'm done with the drivers side.  Feel dumb again, but at least it is on.  Glad I don't pay myself by the hour......

[69wannabe]

I picked up a pair of "magnum mounts" at a mopar show several years ago and they were basically like the one's on here that have been bolted all the way through. Gave 50 bucks each for them!! Wish I new bout the fix it yourself way to do these mounts like described on here but I was new to the mopar world and just picked them up. I have a 4-speed so they have worked very well for me. When I had the engine out last year I checked and the driver side bolt that was all the way through was actually broke but the mount was still good. Wonder how that happened!! I got that one out and found the same bolt where I work in the bolt bins and got me a new one and a couple extras just in case. These are good mounts tho and a great idea about bolting all the way through and keeping the regular mount there to absorb the vibration of the engine.

[RECHRGD]

I picked up a pair of "magnum mounts" at a mopar show several years ago and they were basically like the one's on here that have been bolted all the way through. Gave 50 bucks each for them!! Wish I new bout the fix it yourself way to do these mounts like described on here but I was new to the mopar world and just picked them up. I have a 4-speed so they have worked very well for me. When I had the engine out last year I checked and the driver side bolt that was all the way through was actually broke but the mount was still good. Wonder how that happened!! I got that one out and found the same bolt where I work in the bolt bins and got me a new one and a couple extras just in case. These are good mounts tho and a great idea about bolting all the way through and keeping the regular mount there to absorb the vibration of the engine.

[A383Wing]

I use the Schumacher torque strap

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/InstructionPages/TorqueStrap.html

yup..I did the same strap on the Daytona...only problem I have is the filter has to come out the top now

Bryan

[Steve P.]

When I started racing many moons ago, I used a piece of chain and a turnbuckle. I use to have to adjust the slack out now and then. Then I broke a bolt and felt the motor trying to spin itself upside down and had steel mounts made for it. (no one made them back then). Those were absolute shit, so I went to elephant ears and never had another issue.. It made pulling the engine a breeze too!!  Today you can buy aluminum elephant ears and torque rods and even elephant ears with BUSHINGS to settle the beating for street use...

Why didn't I think of that??   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I use the Schumacher torque strap

http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/InstructionPages/TorqueStrap.html

yup..I did the same strap on the Daytona...only problem I have is the filter has to come out the top now

Bryan

I still take mine out on the bottom....just disconnect the bracket from the k-frame