Upgrading Alternator

[ChargerRob]

I have a 69 Charger R/T with the single field/wire alternator. My electrical system seems to be working fine. What are the advantages of upgrading to the dual field alternator?  Thanks, Robert

[Chryco Psycho]

nothing really , both systems work great it is just a control for the power into the alt or a controlled ground on the 2 terminal system

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I upgraded mine along with the electronic ignition with great results.  More reliable regulator IMHO

[ChargerRob]

Do you guys think it's worth it for me to do the upgrade. If yes, how do I do it? Thanks, Robert

[Nacho-RT74]

electronic as far I know is more stabilished, but mechanical regulator has the advantage of calibrate output and get more juice ( voltage )

[Danny Gutierrez]

  It's my understanding that you have to ground out the second field with some 16 gauge or better wire.  I've also heard that you should upgrade the output wire as well to handle the extra amps.  I'm interested because i just purchased a new "Powermaster" chrome, squareback, dual field alternator to replace my old single field unit.  Any aditional info would be great!!!

[Nacho-RT74]

if you go with double field alt ( square back ) and use the same mechanical regulator instead upgrade also the regulator, yes is true you need to ground one of the brushes but is enough to use a metalic washer on one of the brushes screws instead the "plastic" one to get ground on brush, no need really a wire...

If you will upgrade the alt with a higher than 60 amps, yes is better to use a 10 gauge wire as minimun. In fact I would run a parallel wire up to ammeter and from there up to batt ( or starter relay stud ) throught the firewall with a grommet. don't really need to eliminate the orginiall wire since the heavy load will run by that wire.

But you can also just upgrade your actual alternator with a kit, that basically consist on a bigger stator able to catch more magnetic field and with that, more output:
http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm
you can go with the kit already done and change or just rebuilt the alternator with a wider core on a speciallized shop...  your original stator is around 4 milimeters wide, and laters original stators ( lates 70s earliers 80s ) able to drive up to 90 amps are around 5 milimeters... just one milimeter wider is A BIG difference. as far I know rest of components are the same value as earliers ( diodes and rotor ).

[BrianShaughnessy]

    I'm interested because i just purchased a new "Powermaster" chrome, squareback, dual field alternator to replace my old single field unit.   Any aditional info would be great!!!

I wasted a lot of time rewiring the old harness to put my powermaster chrome dual field alternator and the new volt reg. in rewrapping them with tape and making it look all pretty.

Then I took the whole old harness out and threw it away and replaced it with a Bill Evans harness that I ordered for electronic ignition and new volt reg in about 15 minutes.

[martinihenry]

As far as 'advantages' go, isn't the dual-field + electronic regulator REQUIRED for electronic ignition conversions? Also, as a rule of thumb, electronic voltage regulation is generally more stable than mechanical regulation. That's why people replace the mechanical Instrument Voltage Regulator under their dashes.

Jason

[dkn1997]

the "mechanical" reg you think you have is probably not mechanical anymore.  unless it's original.  If it has been replaced recently, or if you go down to the parts store for a replacement, it had a circuit board on it and not the springs like the old ones.

So it probably does not matter.  Personally, I would not spend the big powermaster bucks when stock denso mopar alternators bolt in and use existing dual field wiring.  changing from single field to dual field takes about 10 minutes.  stock denso alts can be had pretty cheap from junkyards/ebay.

Just make sure to add an extra large gauge wire betweeen the alt and the starter relay so all the current does not go throught the blade terminals of the bulkhead connector and the amp gauge.  check this out for the swap.

http://cuda66273.proboards23.com/index.cgi?board=Tech&action=display&thread=1081309590