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Headlight doors wont go down could it be my cam upgrade???

Started by dodgedarren, January 25, 2013, 07:04:32 PM

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dodgedarren

January 25, 2013, 07:04:32 PM
I am wonder if because I change cam and only pull 11pounds of air its not enough to close the doors? They go up allot slower than before. Has anyone ever connected the doors vacuum to the brake booster vacuum???

lasvegas69charg

#1
January 25, 2013, 10:15:57 PM
I only have 11" of vac and my headlights go up and down fairly quickly. Are they hanging up on the thin piece of metal that the metal bar locks onto that holds it in place while their up?
69 dodge charger 383/727/3.55 (my dad is the original owner-matching number) stroked to a 496😉

Back N Black

#2
January 28, 2013, 09:42:53 AM
Quote from: lasvegas69charg on January 25, 2013, 10:15:57 PM
I only have 11" of vac and my headlights go up and down fairly quickly. Are they hanging up on the thin piece of metal that the metal bar locks onto that holds it in place while their up?

The metal bar is 69 only, 68 and 69 have different vacuum pods. The 68 pod has a magnet in the pod to keep the doors open, where 69 uses the metal bar to hold the doors open.So, if you are using 68 pods on a 69 with the metal bar, it will take more vacuum to pull it close.

Cooter

#3
January 28, 2013, 12:56:58 PM
Quote from: dodgedarren on January 25, 2013, 07:04:32 PM
Has anyone ever connected the doors vacuum to the brake booster vacuum???

My brother bypassed the original vacuum canister on his '69 R/T once for grins to see what would happen with aMopar 284 Purple shaft cam.
Every time the cam loped, the doors would "wink" at you until all the way up. Took forever to get 'em all the way up.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

mikeydf14

#4
February 02, 2013, 03:07:27 PM
I am also having issues with the light doors on my 68 Charger.  My doors would open but not close.  I would not use the vac off the booster since the system was designed to be used off the vac canister  which acts a an accumulator.  My car is missing the vac canister and was hooked up totally wrong to compensate for not having one.   Either I have a bad vac line on that side (going down) of the system, a bad vac switch under the dash or not enough vac. I ordered a new vac canister and will replace every vac hose. I may have a bad actuator but I doubt two would go bad at the same time.  If neither of this works, I was given a home fix for the dash switch From what I can tell it works. A new switch costs around $200 if you can find one. When I fix my problem (I hope) I will post what was done.
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