Coolant Leak:

[Captain D]

Hello all,

Recently, I had taken notice that there is a slight amount of coolant directly under the engine (right under the oil pan and towards the left driver side). Without a lift, I can't see where its leaking from - so is there any idea as to where it may be coming from and what to try to look for/tighten up exactly (if possible)? Could it be a loose header bolt, etc.?

A friend noted that these old cars tend to leak a little bit anyway and adding some bars leak in with the coolant, since new cars today already have that mixed in with the coolant, should do the trick - but before I start adding 'stuff,' I think I would feel better finding the actual source of the problem.

Thank you for any and all replies and suggestions,
Aaron  

[JB400]

How about some more info as to what the car is and what motor is in it?




Either way, you could have a freeze plug leaking, or a bolt has come loose on the water pump/ housing, or a bolt that goes into the water jacket in the block ( maybe power steering pump).  It could be something simple like a pinhole in a hose.  Any aftermarket components?

[Dino]

Don't use that leak stop crap, it may plug the leak but it may also constrict the actual passages.

Drain the system and test the pieces individually.  It'll be much easier to find the culprit if you test radiator, water pump, hoses and bolts seperate.  While you have it apart, flush the whole thing, use new seals where applicable and enjoy.  Old cars should NOT leak coolant.  This whole 'it's old so it's probably normal' stuff is long gone, we have the means to fix all that.

[tan top]

Don't use that leak stop crap, it may plug the leak but it may also constrict the actual passages.

Drain the system and test the pieces individually.  It'll be much easier to find the culprit if you test radiator, water pump, hoses and bolts seperate.  While you have it apart, flush the whole thing, use new seals where applicable and enjoy.  Old cars should NOT leak coolant.  This whole 'it's old so it's probably normal' stuff is long gone, we have the means to fix all that.

 
     never use any of that stop leak stuff ,

[XH29N0G]

Some of these things may go like clockwork.  I agree with what the others have written. 

I had a freeze plug go last year and when I talked with my dad (it was originally his car) he recited a list of things and the time intervals they would go on him.  This was one of them. 

[Captain D]

Thank you for the reply gents,  

I have a 383 4brrl BB in my 69' Charger and now that I think of it, I do recall discussing this with another member here about a slight coolant leak and he mentioned a bolt on the header that goes into the water jacket since I remember some coolant that was dripping off the spark plug (I'm sorry I don't know of the proper firing order). It was the one plug on the driver side, second one from the rear (the third one back if you were to simply count back from the front). A local shop did tighten this bolt that he thought it was coming from and it was fine for awhile, but now there is slightly some fresh/clean coolant present. I was told not to go too hard on this bolt since the water jacket can be damaged easily.

The odd thing is that the coolant isn't 'directly' under this bolt/spark plug location - more centered directly under the engine (more of a center/left placement), so it could be this same bolt but it may be worth checking elsewhere indeed as you guys mentioned. Just out of curiosity, where is this freeze plug located at?

Thanks again,
Aaron

[XH29N0G]

On 906 heads there is one freeze plug at either end of the head, another  slightly larger one mid way between the 1st and second exhaust ports and another mid way between the 3rd and 4th exhaust ports.  Don't know about other heads, but assume they are similar. 

[XH29N0G]

Just realized you might be talking about the block, there are also three on each side of the block

[Orange Bird]

Dont forget to check the header/exhaust man bolts. They screw right into the water jacker as well.

[Captain D]

Thank you gents for the replies,

I wrote everything down for future reference and I think everything is okay for the time being,  . I have just two more questions about this topic though if I may ask please:

1.) I also noticed a slight oil leak from the passenger side's furthest rear header bolt (the furthest one back and right under the heater hoses where they secure to the firewall) and mildly tightened it to see if it''l help. NOw, it's leaking a little more - should something like this be tightened up some more or backed out to at least where it was?

2.) What is the correct temperature reading for the 69' Charger (mine is a 383 4 bbrl BB, 350 HP). During my test runs to check my speedometer cable, I noticed that it was running between 170 and what looks to be an approx. 190. Are these readings within the normal range? I hope that I didn't over tighten the heater hose clamps in that it blocks off coolant from getting into the block...

Thank you once more for any and all replies,
Aaron 

[JB400]

Dunno about the oil leak, but your operating temps are right where they should be. I assume the thermostat is somewhere in that heat range like it should be.

[Cooter]

Get yourself a hand held mirror at the auto parts store. Then you can get a better idea of where it's coming from.

[Captain D]

Thanks for the replies and since my latest posting I found the source of the oil leak - I have a crack in the valve cover,  .

Now, I know that I'm new at this but what in the %^#$ would cause a crack in a valve cover? It's an original M/T thick aluminum that we had powder-coated, not a chrome aftermarket piece that are prone to leaking. The only thing that I can think of is that, when the shop did the job, they had to re-do it twice since they messed up on it during the first round. Perhaps when re-blasting it or re-baking it, the temp was too hot causing it to be brittle.

It would be nice if it fixed itself like my speedometer cable seemed to do on its own as mentioned in another thread, lol, but is there any form of caulking/sealant material out there that may help to plug it up so that I can least drive the car and prevent the oil from dripping onto the hot headers, by chance? I know something like this may be going out on a limb, but I just thought that I would ask...

Thanks for hearing me whine and tips on a sealant (if possible),
Aaron

[JB400]

I don't think caulking is the way to go.  Your best bet is to find the crack, and drill a small hole at the end of the crack.  What this does is keep the crack from going further in the valve cover and eventually breaking a piece off.  Then, take it and go get it welded.  Do some filing and polishing, and then it will be good to go.

Drilling the hole is what the aircraft industry does in the inside corners on aluminum to keep it from cracking.  If you don't drill the hole, and just have it welded, it will crack again. 1/16 or 1/8 inch hole is sufficient. Your only other option is to get different valve covers.

[Captain D]

Thanks man for the reply,

Come to think of it, I believe I messed it up myself by accidentally tightening it up too much. When turning the bolt, I didn't think it was all that hard at all to begin with - let alone doing it to the point of causing it to crack  . I recall a very slight amount of oil under the car, tightened the bolt minimally and carefully, and next thing I know I have a crack in the cover  . I just learned the hard way to almost 'barely' turn a valve cover bolt in order for it to work best it seems. I assumed that the heavy aluminum was stronger than that...

I have an extra cover to get re-powder-coated, so I'll just redo it and make it right. Once I get it back, I'll be extra careful and treat it like its plastic! Although I never swapped out a valve cover myself before, it'll be a learning experience so if anyone knows of any good threads on how to go about doing it correctly I'm anxious to begin reading up on it as much as possible before I get after it. If not, that's okay I can do some searches.

Thank you again gents for all of the guidance in this thread and best regards!
Aaron  

[JB400]

If you can change a tire, you can change valve covers.  Just make sure you clean your gasket mating surfaces real good so that they don't leak.  Valve cover bolts you want snug, not tight.  Wheels you want tight, not snug.

[Captain D]

Thanks stroker400 wedge for encouragement  ,

I took an extra valve cover to another powder-coating place today and dropped it off. I told this new shop how I barely turned the valve cover bolt and it caused a crack. His first reaction was to ask if it was powder-coated and re-blasted to do over again if there was a problem the first time. I said yes - the first shop I took it to did the work, but it wasn't done properly so they re-blasted it. Chances were, that when they re-blasted it, it was more than likely too hot (800 degrees being too much) and it weakened the aluminum material making it brittle. With that being said, that was a waste of $90, not including gas an hour one way to this place.

Anyhow, this new shop has a much better track record and will have it done in about a week and a half. In the meantime, I've been reading up on how to replace a valve cover. If there is anything that I left out, please let me know:

- Remove the existing valve cover bolts,
- Remove the old valve cover and gasket,
- Clean around the edge of the block and to be careful that none of the old Permatex sealant goes into the block,
- Place a new gasket on the block (rubberized I read may be best to go with),
- Add a thin coat of Permatex sealant on top of the new gasket and spread it evenly with your finger and be careful not to get it around any of the holes where the bolts pass through,
- Put new valve cover on and *carefully* snug up the valve cover bolts by hand by doing a criss-cross tightening pattern so as to ensure that they get tightened evenly,
- Do a test run on the car to check for any oil leakage and carefully snug up if need be certain areas around the cover.

If there is anything else that anyone would like to add so that I can do the best job at this when I go to start it, I'm certainly open to any and all replies,  .

Best regards,
Aaron