engine wont start

[christianlarsen]

The other day I was out cruising and suddenly my engine stopped for like half a second then fired up again. After 5 min the engine suddenly stopped running and then i couldn't start it again. I was afraid I had sinned and forgot to fuel it but after giving it 5L of fuel no change.
When I turn the key it turns fine and when i measure the voltage to the coil it looks fine.
I have and old coil (alsmost everything else is new) and a new unilite distributor.

I am thinking about changing the coil and the fuel filter. But im not sure what coil would be good with the unilite dist ?

Also im thinking about giving the carb a snaps (dropping some fuel directly into it) to see if its a fuel problem or electrical ?

Any good ideas on how to proceed

[Cooter]

Ok, I can only Assume we are working on a Charger here. Does the car have Mopar Electronic Ignition?
Points ignition?

Have you physically checked to see if it has fire? (Spark at coil,cap,wire,plugs?)

Must have three things. Fuel, spark, air....You are missing one or more.

[chargd72]

Are you using a mallory circuit protector?  If you don't have a red box (or equivilant) one power surge will fry the module in your unilite.

[christianlarsen]

Yes Cooter its a charger 69 with a 440 stroker (511) and I just have a simple ignition system with a normal volt regulator, resistor, a coil that was in the car when I got it, and a Mallory Ignition 3757801 - Mallory Unilite Distributor (mechanical/optical).

And no chargd72, I don't use a mallory circuit protector. It looks like from your picture to be fit between the coil and the distributor ?

I haven't checked anything yet because im uncertain on how to proceed and thought it best to get some input from you guys first.

I get the feeling from your posts that I should check for sparks before I try dropping some fuel into the carburator ?

[Indygenerallee]

first thing I would do is check for spark if none is present, pop the distributor cap off and crank it to make sure rotor is turning.

[chargd72]

Yes, the surge protector goes between coil and dizzy.  Those optical modules can burn out super easy if they see a voltage spike.  Here's how you can check to see if it's still functioning correctly.  Take you're dizzy cap and rotor off and do this:

With the DMM/Voltmeter still connected to the negative side of the coil (black DMM wire to ground, red DMM wire to the negative side of the coil) you are going to watch the meter while blocking the L.E.D. optics on the module with your credit card. Placing the credit card or other device between the towers on the module will block the L.E.D. optic. When the optics are blocked the readings on your DMM/voltmeter MUST drop below 2.0 volts. It may be just for an instant, or it may hold below two volts until you unblock the module. Either is OK. But if the voltage does not drop below 2.0v the module has been damaged and must be replaced. Again, voltage MUST drop below 2.0 volts when the optic is blocked!
Now, unblock the module after performing step above and the voltage reading on your meter MUST return to battery voltage. If the voltage does not instantly jump back up, it stays at its "optic blocked" reading, or does not fully recover, the module must be replaced.

[nvrbdn]

 

[randy73]

Have you taken the fuel line off the carb and checked for fuel, sounds like a classic fuel pump gone bad.