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Long style filter or shorty? Which would you prefer?

Started by resq302, October 18, 2012, 10:17:17 PM

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resq302

Here is a question I have been pondering with lately.  I know that around 1971 or 1972 Chrysler changed over from the L-72 (1851658) long style oil filter to the "shorty" filter that was not as tall but still had the same thread size and mounting area that screwed on to the fitting on the block.  If you had both styles available to you which one would you use?  Is there any harm in having a little bit shorter area for the filter media or would it not necessarily matter as long as it is still filtering like it should down to the set microns that both filters say they filter down to?

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Fred

I would choose the long style filter because it has more filtering capacity which, in my book means it's got to be better.   :Twocents:


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

471_Magnum

Depends on the application. The long filter can really be a PITA in certain applications.

On a small block, it will probably require a right angle adapter. Just depends on your exhaust configuration.
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

Ghoste


JB400


resq302

This was my thoughts on it. 

As to how much extra filtering capacity? Well, its going to filter whether you have a 5 inch long filter or a 3 inch long filter.  Now if you have serious problems with  your engine and you need that extra space to filter, then I would agree.  But it is not like we are driving our cars past 3,000 miles like they suggest to change out the conventional oil.  If you do, then chose to put a better filtering one on, such as Purolator vs their upgraded Pure 1 filter.

As for it having extra oil capacity..... well the extra inch or so of the can will not even give you half a quart so it is basically a mute point.  I would imagine if you would want extra oil capacity, you would have to get a bigger oil pan to really see any benefits.

As for the long vs short for clearance, well yes that is a major factor.  However, if you were to have a slide on cover that looked just like the factory assembly line filter but had to use the "shorty" filter in order to be able to hide it under the slide on assembly line "fake" filter,  would you rather opt for that and pay once to have a reuseable correct appearing item?  The other option would be to have a correct, long style filter at a higher end price as you would have to replace it year after year and such.  Probably about 2 filter changes later you would probably be at what the cost of what the slide on cover would cost.

Thoughts on this?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chryco Psycho

there are number of filters that will fit , even the small filters used on the 2.2 4 cyl have the same thread & gasket size there is also longer filters than the PH8 or 51515 one is twice the length , I use the 51515 Wix or Napa Gold just as long as it never has Fram on it  :2thumbs:

elacruze

Quote from: stroker400 wedge on October 19, 2012, 06:15:30 AM
I'd rather have the extra oil.

This is the only difference, unless you leave the filter on so long that a short one would plug up.

Keep in mind that only about 10% of your oil passes through the filter media, the rest is bypassed.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

resq302

Ok, here is the reason why I was asking for everyones opinion.  I am in the early beginning process of coming up with a slip on cover that will slide onto a current modern day filter (brand of your choice of your choice) that would have the exact correct appearance as what the green textured assembly line oil filter would have been installed at the factory.  This way,  you would have to only buy the sleeve once and then just replace the actual filter under it whenever you wanted at a much cheaper price than what it would be to replace an actual filter that looks like the assembly line one.

What is everyones thoughts on this?  Would you rather see an actual filter that looks like the correct assembly line one and not have the filter of your choice but have it correct factory appearing?  Or have a slip on cover that looks correct but you could use whatever brand filter of your choice hidden under it but the filter being a slightly shorter one than what was actually used in 1966-1972?  Keep in mind that the slip on cover will be able to be reused but might more vs the actual correct appearing filter that you just replace.  Early guessing, I am expecting the cost of the sleeve to roughly pay for itself in 2-3 filter changes of what it would cost if you got the actual correct appearing functional filter.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

JB400

Sounds like a good idea for the resto crowd.  How's it going to fasten on to the filter?

tan top

  have run both types , prefer the longer style ,  more oil capacity  ,  shorter easier to remove though , with out getting every thing covered in engine oil , :yesnod:
think the shorty filters were napa/wicks gold , had more oil flow  then the longer style , :scratchchin:
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471_Magnum

Just got done doing an oil change on the Road Runner (small block). Had the short filter (Wix 51068) on there with no right angle adapter. Heat from the header had burnt the label off. Pretty much impossible to remove without getting oil on the header.

Installed a right angle adapter and long (Wix 51515) filter. That should take care of the heat problem, but clearance is really tight against the transmission dipstick tube. Next time around I'll be installing a shorter filter, probably the intermediate length one.

As mentioned above, contrary to popular belief, there isn't a lot of value in running the bigger filter, but if it fits with minimal hassle run it.
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

resq302

Quote from: stroker400 wedge on October 20, 2012, 11:37:21 AM
Sounds like a good idea for the resto crowd.  How's it going to fasten on to the filter?

Well, the sleeve is actually a pretty snug fit but I am able to get these made, I would supply a light adhesive / tacky type of tape to help prevent the sleeve from sliding off.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bill440rt

I was always under the impression that it was long filter: big block; short filter: small block.  :shruggy:  Could be wrong, though.

Personally, I would rather have a complete stock looking filter than a "sleeve". Unless, of course, it was undetectable that it was just a sleeve. Think: dash caps vs dash pads.
:popcrn:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

resq302

Bill,

Actually, the slant 6 used the L-72 filter also.  I will try and take a picture tomorrow of how the prototype looks with the "shorty" filter underneath.  The other advantage of the sleeve is that you could use whatever brand filter you prefer as long as it is compatible with the dimensions of the "shorty" filter.  Im sure there would be a debate with people favoring say Wix brand over Fram (which I would NEVER use again) or say Purolator PurOne vs. a K&N filter.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Brightyellow69rtse

i always go with a longer filter for all my cars. i use a longer one on my hemi ram. its actually the same filter i use on the charger.i even got one figured out for my saturn daily driver.

Just 6T9 CHGR

I think a sleeve would be pretty cool....on a big block you can only see about the 1/2 the filter anyway from the top so I think a sleeve might be undetectable depending on the fit....
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

Here is a teaser of the prototype.  I forgot to take a picture of what it would look like totally hidden in the "shorty" filter.  The fit is exactly the same for the Purolator L30001 vs. the "shorty" Purolator L14670 with the shorty being able to be totally hidden by the sleeve.  Keep in mind, the L30001 will have the sleeve slip over the filter as shown but will not cover the bottom 1" of the filter due to the knurled part having longer flutes than what the Purolator filter does, hence the need for a slightly shorter filter.

Again, this is only the prototype so far and once I secure a source for the sleeves, the ball can be moved forward with Chrysler and licensing and such.  I would also need to know what kind of interest the general hobby would have as with anything, if there is not enough interest, it obviously wouldnt be cost effective for everyone.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Cooter

Don't wanna rain on anybody's parade here, but once Chrysler/Fiat/Whatever gets involved, it may not be cost effective. All of a sudden, a filter "sleeve" costs more than the Filter Chrysler all of a sudden comes out with.


We repro'd a VERY rare manifold and by the time Chrysler got involved, was gonna cost us around $3K to get the first proto types out there(2), now it costs us Over $12K....For Two manifolds that nobody's buying. Just a heads up.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

elacruze

Quote from: Cooter on October 22, 2012, 11:26:57 AM
Don't wanna rain on anybody's parade here, but once Chrysler/Fiat/Whatever gets involved, it may not be cost effective. All of a sudden, a filter "sleeve" costs more than the Filter Chrysler all of a sudden comes out with.


We repro'd a VERY rare manifold and by the time Chrysler got involved, was gonna cost us around $3K to get the first proto types out there(2), now it costs us Over $12K....For Two manifolds that nobody's buying. Just a heads up.

...so you might mention what those manifolds actually fit...
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Cooter

1958 Plymouth/Dodge BB V8 engines.(Think 350 Golden Commando with heat riser for choke on Primary carb in rear)..Also 1962 RARE Alternator HP Dual Inline four engine.(Same as above, buit without Generator mount.) Weird sh*t. Nothing stupid crazy like 426 Hemi stuff or anything.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

resq302

Cooter,

Just out of curiosity, how many engines came with those manifolds?  If there was not a lot made, that could be why Chrysler wants such a high percentage.  I dunno.   :shruggy:   Lets face it, if there is a wider range of vehicles that a part will fit, they might be more inclined to lower the cost per item vs. something that maybe only came on 500 engines?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto