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can't get horns to work

Started by AirborneSilva, July 19, 2012, 01:43:46 PM

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AirborneSilva

Ok, so I'm on my third set, originals, a set a member sent then another set another member sold me, none will work! The two latter sets the members said they worked for them. Here's how I tested them - using my circuit tester connected to the positive terminal of the battery I ground the horn to the negative terminal then touch the tester to the connector, nothing >:( I know I have a complete circuit because the light on the tester lights up... What am I doing wrong? I really want to get this on the road but the horns and wipers are stopping me from passing safety inspection, any ideas?

resq302

are you sure you are getting a good ground on the horn?  The bolts were a special bolt that had some "teeth" on the inside part of the washer that actually bit into the paint on the horn which caused a bare metal ground.  If you have a battery booster pack, try hooking the metal mounting bracket to the neg set of jaws and make sure you have a good ground and then hook up a jumper wire from the contact to the pos. side of the booster pack.  That should tell you if they work or not.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

AirborneSilva

Quote from: resq302 on July 19, 2012, 02:11:59 PM
are you sure you are getting a good ground on the horn?  The bolts were a special bolt that had some "teeth" on the inside part of the washer that actually bit into the paint on the horn which caused a bare metal ground.  If you have a battery booster pack, try hooking the metal mounting bracket to the neg set of jaws and make sure you have a good ground and then hook up a jumper wire from the contact to the pos. side of the booster pack.  That should tell you if they work or not.

I think I'm basically doing the same thing by connecting it direct to the battery.  I would think that if I'm not getting a good circuit the tester wouldn't light up but then again like I said I know very little about electrical. 

resq302

the test light could light up as the filament might have less resistance than the horn does.   :shruggy: 

Are you also hearing the relay click?  Could be no power either coming into or coming out of the horn relay.   :shruggy:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

AirborneSilva

I don't have it connected t the horn system, just trying to bench test it.  Yeah I see your point about the tester not having as much resistance.  I did give them to a buddy at work who is going to test them on his working system in his 68 Cheby pickemup truck.

macca3441

Mate,
The simplest way to test your horn:
Using a set of jumper leads- hook the body of the horn (the mount) up to neg of battery, and positive to the terminal on horn!
If the horn doesn't work, it's cactus!!

Wade

AirborneSilva

Thanks Wade that's what I thought  :cheers:

resq302

If the horn doesn't work, there is a way to rebuild them.  They are a very simple construction especially if they are the Spartan made horns.  Ive rebuilt 2 myself and they look pretty close to original and hard to tell they are not rivets.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

AirborneSilva

Quote from: resq302 on July 19, 2012, 03:39:39 PM
If the horn doesn't work, there is a way to rebuild them.  They are a very simple construction especially if they are the Spartan made horns.  Ive rebuilt 2 myself and they look pretty close to original and hard to tell they are not rivets.

Cool, I'll look at them, maybe see about taking one apart - what's the worse that can happen  :icon_smile_big:

Nacho-RT74

try what I told you on 3rd gen board... screw in and out several times the tuning screw ;)
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

AirborneSilva

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on July 20, 2012, 09:15:42 AM
try what I told you on 3rd gen board... screw in and out several times the tuning screw ;)

Roger that, thanks Nacho