Gauge gremlins aka instrument cluster resto, the results!

[resq302]

no offence but that ground strap I have found to be basically useless unless its an original one.  The repros are junk.  I ended up just soldering a wire from the metal housing of the sending unit and then attaching that wire to the body.  Basically does the same thing and is a lot better of a ground!

[b5blue]

I agree, a vender sent a stainless one as he was out of the plain steel I ordered. It should be "spring steel" to maintain a tight grip, the stainless is such high carbon I found it worthless. It just slides around with no grip. I made a rig and used clamps.  (It works but looks crappy!)

[Dino]

I'll have to read the fsm.  At this time I don't even know where that strap is supposed to be!   

[b5blue]

  Dino that strap clips to the starting end of the steel fuel line and the steel tube that feeds fuel from the tank that sticks out of the sender's mounting disk, it spans the rubber fuel line connecting the two. 

[Dino]

I haven't had the cha nce to check out the strap yet, that's on the agenda for tonight.  In the meantime I'm still having issues with the circuit board.  If the fuel gauge issue is not part of that then at least the two bulbs not lighting up is.  Is this something I can fix myself or should I spend $55 for a used one that's supposedly in perfect working condition? 

[b5blue]

  I'd clean it with an eraser at all contact points and solder the base of the pins. Scrub it down with alcohol after soldering to remove flux. Check the tabs and slots on the light bulb holders and be certain the "ears" that catch the board are not cracked or missing. 
  You can make a wire with alligator clips on both ends and ground the output line of the sender real good as a "test checker".

[Dino]

  I'd clean it with an eraser at all contact points and solder the base of the pins. Scrub it down with alcohol after soldering to remove flux. Check the tabs and slots on the light bulb holders and be certain the "ears" that catch the board are not cracked or missing. 
  You can make a wire with alligator clips on both ends and ground the output line of the sender real good as a "test checker".

I'll give it a shot!  These boards (used) are on ebay around $50 quite a bit but I'd be happy to save that and see if I can get this one working again.  One of the problems is that I do not know how to test the whole circuit board while it's out of the car so after I clean it all up I may be back for a question or two...

I've had some battle scars putting that cluster in and out so many times, I really need to figure out how to test the whole thing while it's on the bench.

[b5blue]

Get a cheap meter, I'll tell ya what to do. I found the dash light bulb holders to be troublesome. (The little black things.)

[Dino]

Get a cheap meter, I'll tell ya what to do. I found the dash light bulb holders to be troublesome. (The little black things.)

I have a multimeter and one of those continuity testers, looks like an ice pick with a handle that lights up.  Problem is that I really don't know how to use them, I just turn the dial on the multimeter until something happens.

I have moved the little bulbs and holders around and they seem to be working fine in the middle position on the board.  The one on the left and right don't work with any of the bulbs and holders.

[b5blue]

  Check for "continuity" with the meter set to "OHM's", the symbol looks like a horse shoe or upside-down U with tiny feet sticking out the ends. (The meter's internal battery must be good.)
  Disconnect one of the car battery cables.
   Set the meter to OHM and touch the lead ends together and it should read on the meter's gauge. Clip or hold ether lead to a pin and follow the path on the circuit board to where it ends and touch the other lead end there. (The meter should read the same as when you just touched the 2 lead ends together.) While doing this wiggle the pin to see if you loose reading, if it bips or quits the pin is loose. 
   You can check anything for electrical continuity this way, no other power is needed. (or wanted!) To check for ground just put one lead end on any part of the car that is A:steel and B: grounded by the battery cable. (The battery need not be attached.) Touch the other lead end to what should be grounded. The meter should read the same as when the two lead ends were touched together.
  Example A: Is the fuel output line of the fuel sending unit grounded? Touch the fuel output line with one lead end and touch the other lead end to the body or sub frame. (You may need to scratch the point of the lead through some paint.) The meter should read the same as just touching the two lead ends together.
  Example B: Test for gauge sending wire continuity? Disconnect the wire at the sender and hook or clip a length of wire to it there, long enough to run inside the car at the area you are working at. Touch one lead end to the added wire and the other to the plug, connector or end that attaches to a gauge (or whatever.) The meter should read the same as it did when just touching the two lead ends together.
  Much of your wiring can be verified with just this concept, you just need to be certain your test wire has good contact at the test point you hook it to. A good 15 foot section of wire with alligator clips SOLDERED or SCREWED TIGHTLY to each end is a big help. (I use old extension cords as they are cheap and have 3 good wires even if the cord ends have crapped out.)  (Hint...you can bypass the factory tail light harness with a 25 foot extension cord that has the ends cut off and rigged up for trouble shooting if you know where to connect it.)

[Dino]

  Check for "continuity" with the meter set to "OHM's", the symbol looks like a horse shoe or upside-down U with tiny feet sticking out the ends. (The meter's internal battery must be good.)
  Disconnect one of the car battery cables.
   Set the meter to OHM and touch the lead ends together and it should read on the meter's gauge. Clip or hold ether lead to a pin and follow the path on the circuit board to where it ends and touch the other lead end there. (The meter should read the same as when you just touched the 2 lead ends together.) While doing this wiggle the pin to see if you loose reading, if it bips or quits the pin is loose. 
   You can check anything for electrical continuity this way, no other power is needed. (or wanted!) To check for ground just put one lead end on any part of the car that is A:steel and B: grounded by the battery cable. (The battery need not be attached.) Touch the other lead end to what should be grounded. The meter should read the same as when the two lead ends were touched together.
  Example A: Is the fuel output line of the fuel sending unit grounded? Touch the fuel output line with one lead end and touch the other lead end to the body or sub frame. (You may need to scratch the point of the lead through some paint.) The meter should read the same as just touching the two lead ends together.
  Example B: Test for gauge sending wire continuity? Disconnect the wire at the sender and hook or clip a length of wire to it there, long enough to run inside the car at the area you are working at. Touch one lead end to the added wire and the other to the plug, connector or end that attaches to a gauge (or whatever.) The meter should read the same as it did when just touching the two lead ends together.
  Much of your wiring can be verified with just this concept, you just need to be certain your test wire has good contact at the test point you hook it to. A good 15 foot section of wire with alligator clips SOLDERED or SCREWED TIGHTLY to each end is a big help. (I use old extension cords as they are cheap and have 3 good wires even if the cord ends have crapped out.)  (Hint...you can bypass the factory tail light harness with a 25 foot extension cord that has the ends cut off and rigged up for trouble shooting if you know where to connect it.)

Blue to the rescue once more!  Thanks a million for that very detailed explanation!  I planned on doing this on the weekend but I doubt I'll have the time.  I'll let you know the board readings as soon as I have them.

Thanks again!   

[b5blue]

Your welcome Dino!