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Ignition switch test (out of car)

Started by bull, May 28, 2012, 06:05:40 PM

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bull

Rather than put the old ignition switch in the car and winging it I figured I'd try bench testing the original with a meter. The problem is I'm only getting a reading in one position. With the black lead to the ground terminal and the red lead to ignition 1 I get a reading of .6 ohms when the key is turned one notch to the right (on); and then of course it cuts out to 0 when I turn it one more notch to the right for start. Shouldn't I get a reading at the ignition 2 terminal when the key is turned to start and a reading at the accessory terminal when it's switched one notch to the left? Seems to me there shouldn't be a need to be any other componants involved just to test the switch.

Troy

If I remember right, that's about it. I just use a continuity tester. Luckily you can still buy 62-68 switches new for under $30. I probably have some working ones laying around here (probably no lock cylinders though).

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

bull

Which brings up another question. If I buy a new one how difficult is it to swap the cylinder? Also, does anyone reproduce the chrome spanner nut?

Fred

It's very easy. Just insert the key into the cylinder. Turn the key to the right as you would to start the car, press the little brass button (encircled) and pull the cylinder out with the key. 


Tomorrow is promised to no one.......drive your Charger today.

bull

That sounds easy. I bet I can screw it up though. :2thumbs: This car isn't going without a fight every step of the way.

Highbanked Hauler

Quote from: bull on May 29, 2012, 10:17:24 AM
That sounds easy. I bet I can screw it up though. :2thumbs: This car isn't going without a fight every step of the way.

  You got one of those also ? I thought I had the only one..
69 Charger 500, original owner  
68 Charger former parts car in process of rebuilding
92 Cummins Turbo Diesel
04 PT Cruiser

Chryco Psycho

you should have continuity from BAT termianl  to IGN & acc in the on position , &  bat to ign 2 in start position

bull

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 29, 2012, 12:28:56 PM
you should have continuity from BAT termianl  to IGN & acc in the on position , &  bat to ign 2 in start position

Ok, that's what I'm missing. I was thinking that terminal didn't figure in on a bench test for some reason. Any idea what resistances I should have at each terminal? And which two terminals are redundant, or is one not used? There are more labels than terminals.

John_Kunkel


With the key in RUN there should be continuity between BAT_IGN1_ACC, with the key in START there should be continuity between BAT_IGN2_ST and IGN1 and ACC should lose continuity to BAT. With the key in ACCESSORIES there should be continuity between BAT_ACC.

I believe the GRD terminal is used only on some bodies and there should be continuity between the GRD terminal and the switch housing in START.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

bull

I'll test it again a little later but IIRC I got nothing between GRD and start but I did between GRD and on. Maybe I need to figure out for sure which terminal is which first because the labels aren't all that clear. I'll dig out the FSM when I test it...

Is this the correct terminal ID?

Chryco Psycho

you have 6 terminals & 6 names beside them
to me it looks like Grd is upper left , Bat below at lower left , Ign 1 lower center , Ign 2 to the right of that , Acc at the top  & ST in the middle in your picture

bull


bull

Quote from: John_Kunkel on May 29, 2012, 03:49:58 PM

With the key in RUN there should be continuity between BAT_IGN1_ACC, with the key in START there should be continuity between BAT_IGN2_ST and IGN1 and ACC should lose continuity to BAT. With the key in ACCESSORIES there should be continuity between BAT_ACC.

I believe the GRD terminal is used only on some bodies and there should be continuity between the GRD terminal and the switch housing in START.

Based on the above instructions and the last graphic I posted, the switch works fine in all postions. I seem to have it figured out. :2thumbs: Thanks to all.

Chryco Psycho


Bob T

I'd put a new one in anyway just for peace of mind, the resistance will be lower and the action will be more precise.
The colour coded diagram below was a good help for me sorting out wiring issues when I changed mine out and sorted the existing wiring ratnest out, just how it was thats all, 40+ years of hack jobs. I made a folio of all the diagrams to refer to while working on it and made notes
Old Dog, Old Tricks.

bull