broke another drivers side engine mount

[deathcharger71]

where can i get one that wont break? im tired of the pep-boys p.o.s. that lasts 4 months...

[Rolling_Thunder]

Call up Moroso and install a Solid one

[deathcharger71]

thanks 

[deputycrawford]

I also rolled a motor over under the hood. I called Mancini Racing and ordered a ser of Moroso solid mounts for around $25. With my engine build, I can't see straight at idle but I love that. People stay out of my way at traffic lights too. I even tried the lifetime mounts. I ripped the stop bolts right through the mount plate. Its solid mounts for me always.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Click here -- http://www.mitymounts.com/chrysler.htm

These are one of the best inventions ever for Mopars if you hate changing motor mounts as much as I do, and hate the miserable noise and vibration of solids.

I use them on all three of my cars, and can't praise them enough, plus they carry a lifetime warrantee.

[8WHEELER]

This is another good out fit Schumachers   http://www.engine-swaps.com/frames/frame_Homepage.html

Dan

[rt green]

i got a almost new set i'll sell you.

[MOPARHOUND!]

When I pulled the 440 from the 71 Charger R/T originally, it had the driver's side mount torn in two pieces.

Given the 496's torque I was looking to upgrade.

I bought a Schumacher "Magnum" mount with the bolt through it too still allow the mount to compress, but not "stretch".

Cheaper way to accomplish the same thing is the old drag racer trick of drilling through a factory driver's side mount, and installing a 1/4" bolt.

Also purchased the torque strap setup they sell: http://www.engine-swaps.com/frames/frame_Torquestrap.html

The 496 destroyed the factory trans mount, and a parts store mount in the first 500 miles, so I bought Schumacher's polyurethane trans mount, no problems since.

Mancini also sells a cheaper trans mount, I have discovered, that would have worked well.

[Silver R/T]

torque straps work well

[is_it_EVER_done?]

I bought a Schumacher "Magnum" mount with the bolt through it too still allow the mount to compress, but not "stretch".

Cheaper way to accomplish the same thing is the old drag racer trick of drilling through a factory driver's side mount, and installing a 1/4" bolt.

Also purchased the torque strap setup they sell: http://www.engine-swaps.com/frames/frame_Torquestrap.html

The 496 destroyed the factory trans mount, and a parts store mount in the first 500 miles, so I bought Schumacher's polyurethane trans mount, no problems since.

I've never seen the Shumacher's that used a through bolt, but as you said, a bolt through the stock one will accomplish the same thing, however,  through bolts, solids, torque straps, etc., are band aids. No real drag car today uses any of these as they are far to hard and destructive on parts.

I actually popped a casting plug out of my block one time during launch, due to the stress/flex they put on the block. I've also seen cracked K-frame welds from the stress. And using a poly trans mount without a bulletproof engine mount can crack the trans housing if the engine mount fails (don't ask me how I know).

The advent of the Mity Mounts solved all the hassles and problems that plagued us Mopar guys for so many years. Not cheap, but quite reasonable for an absolute solution to an otherwise perpetual problem. They offer all the benefits/smoothness of a stock mount, with the strength of a solid under full power, without the "shock" to the block, frame, and welds that solids produce.

I have no association with them whatsoever, but I support and recommend them 100% . --- By the way, ditch the poly trans mount (anything poly for that matter) as it offers zero benefits, with potential serious damage if it ever becomes a contest between the tear resistance of poly VS. the torque of the engine trying to flip itself over VS. the strength of the transmission housing. Replacing the trans mount with poly is like replacing a fuse with aluminum foil, nothing good can come of it.

[firefighter3931]

I bought a Schumacher "Magnum" mount with the bolt through it too still allow the mount to compress, but not "stretch".

Cheaper way to accomplish the same thing is the old drag racer trick of drilling through a factory driver's side mount, and installing a 1/4" bolt.

Also purchased the torque strap setup they sell: http://www.engine-swaps.com/frames/frame_Torquestrap.html

The 496 destroyed the factory trans mount, and a parts store mount in the first 500 miles, so I bought Schumacher's polyurethane trans mount, no problems since.

I've never seen the Shumacher's that used a through bolt, but as you said, a bolt through the stock one will accomplish the same thing, however,  through bolts, solids, torque straps, etc., are band aids. No real drag car today uses any of these as they are far to hard and destructive on parts.

I actually popped a casting plug out of my block one time during launch, due to the stress/flex they put on the block. I've also seen cracked K-frame welds from the stress. And using a poly trans mount without a bulletproof engine mount can crack the trans housing if the engine mount fails (don't ask me how I know).

The advent of the Mity Mounts solved all the hassles and problems that plagued us Mopar guys for so many years. Not cheap, but quite reasonable for an absolute solution to an otherwise perpetual problem. They offer all the benefits/smoothness of a stock mount, with the strength of a solid under full power, without the "shock" to the block, frame, and welds that solids produce.

I have no association with them whatsoever, but I support and recommend them 100% . --- By the way, ditch the poly trans mount (anything poly for that matter) as it offers zero benefits, with potential serious damage if it ever becomes a contest between the tear resistance of poly VS. the torque of the engine trying to flip itself over VS. the strength of the transmission housing. Replacing the trans mount with poly is like replacing a fuse with aluminum foil, nothing good can come of it.

Excellent post !

(1) I modify my own stock mounts as described above. Useing 2 grade 8 bolts through the mount does essentially the same thing as a mitymount. The key is to snug and not overtighten the bolts so that there is some isolation from the rubber biscuit. A nylock nut will keep it together without the need for overtightening and fear of it backing off.  If you do this mod i would suggest a grade 8 bolt with flat washers on both sides, along with the nylock.

(2) The poly trans mount will eventually cause problems. I've seen a few cracked tailhousings as a result of poly mount use....won't use one on mine.


The driverside mount is the most important one. It takes all the stress as the engine lifts so it should recieve the bolt treatment at least...or a torque strap/turnbuckle. The passenger side mount doesn't really need any mods because it is actually being compressed when the engine torques over. If you're making enough power to break the k-frame then it's time for a motor plate. 

Ron

[MOPARHOUND!]

I've never seen the Shumacher's that used a through bolt, but as you said, a bolt through the stock one will accomplish the same thing, however,  through bolts, solids, torque straps, etc., are band aids. No real drag car today uses any of these as they are far to hard and destructive on parts.

Guys, Deathcharger car has a warmed over 360 with a 904 trans, a fun combo, but not a torque monster.

Deathcharger, are you drag racing, or mostly street driving?  My 71 Charger R/T is only street driven, though hard occassionally.

From Schumacher's website (pic attached, notice the countersunk bolt head):

MAGNUM MOUNT-PROTECTS AGAINST INSULATOR BLOW-OUT. Available for biscuit-style A & B/RB engine swaps and replacements. '63-72 A-Body, '66-72 B, '66-73 C, and '70-74 E. Bolt-through design locks up under acceleration, prevents blow-outs - provides the durability of a solid mount without sacrificing the smooth ride of rubber. $40 plus $8 S&H. $30 with bracket kit purchase. BCE MOUNTS OUT OF STOCK AT THIS TIME

By the way, ditch the poly trans mount (anything poly for that matter) as it offers zero benefits, with potential serious damage if it ever becomes a contest between the tear resistance of poly VS. the torque of the engine trying to flip itself over VS. the strength of the transmission housing. Replacing the trans mount with poly is like replacing a fuse with aluminum foil, nothing good can come of it.

Deathcharger do you have the early 71 trans mount, or the mid to late 71 trans mount??

Mine has the improved mid to late year trans mount that is totally encircled by the steel of the mount.  Since my Charger is street driven and not launching with a trans brake with slicks and a high stall converter, I don't forsee my engine tearing the bolt in two on the Schumacher Magnum Mount and breaking the Schumacher torque strap..................

......someone have a suggestion as a better alternative replacement of the factory trans mount, than a solid or polyurethane trans mount for a daily driver??

I use the factory passenger side mount.

[MOPARHOUND!]

Schumacher mid to late year 1971 trans mount attached:

[MOPARHOUND!]

Schumacher 66 to 70 & Early 71 B-body Trans Mount pic:

[deathcharger71]

its just a daily driver, i am having an A-999 build that will have a 3000 stall....and i will be abusing it until i get my first ticket  givin i wont be racing, been warned by a cop before and its just not worth it. but i do like to have to fun at stop lights. its broken twice now and i figured with just a 360 the stock pep-boys one would do fine....boy was i wrong. i think im gonna try that bolt through the mount idea.

[chargerbr549]

Here's my two cents worth, I have a 69 RT Charger that I have had for over 20 years and its street driven most of the time but I had the typical problem of breaking drivers side motors mounts so I went the down to the hardware store with my complete motormount set-up and had them make a cable with loops crimped on both ends that went from one of the bolts that goes through the block down to the bolt that goes through the frame, with just enough slack so it doesn't act solid until you "get on it" then the rubber parts never see the torque. I have had it this way for close to 20 years and have had "zero problems" and the best part is you can't even see it unless you look real close. Total amount spent "under five bucks"!

[deathcharger71]

hhmm that sounds like a good idea too....i especially like the under 5 bucks part 

[steves66]

(1) I modify my own stock mounts as described above. Useing 2 grade 8 bolts through the mount does essentially the same thing as a mitymount. The key is to snug and not overtighten the bolts so that there is some isolation from the rubber biscuit. A nylock nut will keep it together without the need for overtightening and fear of it backing off.   If you do this mod i would suggest a grade 8 bolt with flat washers on both sides, along with the nylock.

(2) The poly trans mount will eventually cause problems. I've seen a few cracked tailhousings as a result of poly mount use....won't use one on mine.


The driverside mount is the most important one. It takes all the stress as the engine lifts so it should recieve the bolt treatment at least...or a torque strap/turnbuckle. The passenger side mount doesn't really need any mods because it is actually being compressed when the engine torques over. If you're making enough power to break the k-frame then it's time for a motor plate. 

Ron


I was thinking on doing this to my motor mounts. I bought a set of new stock ones from Mancini and I am a little concerned with them on my stroker build. Does anyone have any pics of the motor mounts drilled with bolts through them like Ron talked about? I like this idea!

[deathcharger71]

the first time i broke one i had my mechanic fix it, but i have no money to this time im taking it on myself. how difficult is it, my mechanic said it was a pain in the ass....but ive got all day haha. how would i go about doing this? use a jack and a block of wood to put some preasure on the bottom of the engine to take the weight off the mount? it looks like a tight fit....

[Runner]

headers or manifolds?.   even with headers, i broke a motor mount when i towed 350 miles to the woodburn oregon mopar race last year. i broke it on the second dial in.  my wife went into town to get a new mount and i satayed to get it out. i had the mount off and waited fo her for about 45 minutes while she tried a few stores to locate it, and then the train blocked the road back to the track so i ran to the tran, and she threw it to me inbeteen 2 rail cars. i had it back in and running in plenty of time for the first round of eleminations, i would have made the last dial in if i would have had a spare with me,,  like i carry now.   

   headers on a small bock might be a pain if the tie rod goes through the tubes. it might limit raising it up.  but if you you can raise the motor its a snap.    pull the bolt out of the motor mount, jack the engine up and pull the 3 bolts out of the mount bracket that bolts to the block, slide it out and swap the new mount onto the bracket and reassemble.  it definatly isnt an all day job.

[deathcharger71]

well when i first noticed the mount was broken it was because i reved my engine and it lifted about and inch off the mount....and i have the front of the car up about 8 inches so im guessing i could fit my jack under there and just put preasure on the engine to make it easier getting the bolts out....then lift the engine up about and inch to make it easier to put the mount back in. first i have to get the mount off to see where i can put a bolt through it so it will still fit....im guessing ill be on here about 2 tomorrow asking for help