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Ressurection

Started by misty440, April 03, 2012, 01:22:11 PM

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misty440

So my Charger has been sitting for about 10 yrs without starting. I did not put in Stabil in the gas. What would be the things that I should do to get her back to running condition? I searched for a thread for this but could not find. I was told to rebuild the carb. Drop fuel tank and clean out. Flush out fuel lines. Obviously change all fluids. I am also going to need new radiator hoses. The stock ones will not work as I have an aftermarket radiator. Where do I find those flexible hoses? Not the expensive steel braided kind but the rubber ones that are meant to flex? Thanks
70 Charger R/T 440C.I 727 3.23's

Paul G

First thing I would do is get a good battery and see if the engine will crank. Make sure it has some oil in it before you even try to crank it over. Has it been stored inside or outside? If the engine wont turn over the rest is moot. If it does turn over then you need  to drop the tank and clean it out, blow the fuel lines out. replace the fuel filters. I would add a filter to the fuel line leaving the tank, and another before the carb. Put some fresh gas in start it up. Might have to pour some gas down the carb at first. If it wont start, and it probably wont stay running if it does start, then rebuild the carb.

You can get fuel hose, clamps and the coolant hoses at any auto parts store. If you get it running give the brakes a good once over before you try to drive it. The brakes are the most important part of the car.   

1972 Charger Topper Special, 360ci, 46RH OD trans, 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.91 gear, 14.93@92 mph.
1973 Charger Rallye, 4 speed, muscle rat. Whatever engine right now?

Mopars Unlimited of Arizona

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AirborneSilva

Before spending money on a battery you can check to see if the motor will turn over just by putting a socket on the crank bolt (I think it's 1 1/4"), and turn it over by hand, if it turns over then you are good.  I would then pull the distributor and prime the oil pump, after changing oil of course.

1969chargerrtse

I'm old school. I've had engines sit longer than that. I'd crank it over,  pour gas in the carb and see if it continues to run. Done it many times with no regret. But that's me.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Cooter

Never dry start and engine that's been sitting for ten years.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

misty440

The engine does turn when manually cranked at the crankshaft. Engine is not seized up. I will drop fuel tank to clean out. Blow out fuel lines. Change fluids. Check brakes. Check all hoses for dry rot. I was also concerned about starting it without priming up the oil. I was told it should be ok but I do not want to induce any internal damage. How do I prime up the oil from the distributor? I can pull the distributor no problem. What are the steps involved afterwards? Anything I need to be careful of or mark to put back in the same spot? 
70 Charger R/T 440C.I 727 3.23's

Tilar

Quote from: Cooter on April 04, 2012, 11:19:56 AM
Never dry start and engine that's been sitting for ten years.


To finish this statement, If the engine will turn with a socket or by hand, Take the plugs out and put oil down the cylinders and then turn it over to lube the rings and cylinders before trying to start it.

Chances are it will take off and run alright. I've had engines run on gas that was 10 years old but if you can get some fresh gas in the tank it might help the performance..
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



Dino

10 year old gas?  Heck it may be better quality then today's gas.   :icon_smile_big:

Flexible radiator hose is universal so any auto parts store should carry it but you may have to order them online if nobody has it in stock.  Advance autoparts or autozone usually has it though.  Now this is the plain flex hose, you can also get the molded hose and adapt it to your new rad if you like.


What carb do you have?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

AirborneSilva

To prime the oil pump and get oil flowing to the heads, cam and lifters you will need to get one of the tools in the link below.  When you prime the motor you will connect the tool to a drill, make sure you run the drill in reverse until you get oil pressure then it will be safe to fire it up.  I would also quirt some oil in the cylinders like it was said before too since the cylinder walls and rings are probably pretty dry.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-62250/


Sublime/Sixpack

If you decide to prime the oiling system I suggest that you have someone there that could turn the crankshaft a revolution or two manually while you do the priming. Having the spark plugs removed will make this easier.
And personally I wouldn't change all the fluids (as you mentioned) until after I got it running and warmed up. Of course you'd want to check the engine oil, if it looks clean, feels okay between your fingers, and doesn't smell like fuel you should be alright to fire it up.
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

Tilar

Quote from: Dino on April 04, 2012, 02:12:31 PM
10 year old gas?  Heck it may be better quality then today's gas.   :icon_smile_big:


There might be more truth to that than you think. The quality of todays gas sucks big time. Shelf life is 6 to 8 months now instead of years.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



AirborneSilva

Quote from: Sublime/Sixpack on April 04, 2012, 04:47:54 PM
If you decide to prime the oiling system I suggest that you have someone there that could turn the crankshaft a revolution or two manually while you do the priming. Having the spark plugs removed will make this easier.


Good point, I forgot that part  :icon_smile_big:

misty440

Thank you for all of your feedback. I honestly have been taking notes. Co-worker/old timer told me that I can just pull the coil wire off and crank it so it does not fire and this will prime the engine. I have already pulled the plugs and sprayed PB Blaster in all cylinders and manually turned over the engine from the crank.  I figured to change the engine oil, Trans fluid and Coolant was a good idea since it has been sitting in garage for 10 yrs. The fuel is Amoco Premium back when it was around $1.50 a gal. And I thought it was a fortune back then to fill the tank.  I am running  an Edelbrock 750 carb I think it is model #1407. What are your guys thoughts on the new oil that does not have the Zinc? A friend told me I should be running 20W50 and this will be no problem.

Thanks again,
Chris
70 Charger R/T 440C.I 727 3.23's

AirborneSilva

Your call but you should consider that your cam has pretty much no lubrication on it so turning it over could flatten it......  Just a thought  :shruggy: personally cheap insurance would be to get the priming tool, pull the distributor and while someone is turning the crank prime the oil pump and get some oil up in the top end of the motor, this only takes a few minutes  :2thumbs:

misty440

Will the timing need to be reset if I pull the distributor? What are the steps to take. I have never done this but I am very mechanically inclined. Thanks
70 Charger R/T 440C.I 727 3.23's

Sublime/Sixpack

Before loosening the hold down make a reference mark on the distributor and the block then when reinstalling just line up the marks. You'll also want to remove the cap and make note of where the rotor is pointing before removing the distributor.
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

cactuswren

I'v learned from a bad experience that valves tend to stick after a long time sitting idle. Before you start bending pushrods, it's worth checking for stuck valves.

1969chargerrtse

Just cranking it over on and off,is all that's needed. The oil lamp will go off, or oil needle will move to the right and it'll be lubed. I've started many sitting engines. It doesn't matter if it sat for a week or a decade, it's still a sitting engine. It's either gonna pull fuel up or it's not. Nothing is gonna wear away. Motors are stronger than that. The cam and rings will be fine. 2 months ago we started a AMX sitting for 3 years. We cranked it over. Oil pressure built up. I poured gas in the carb and vroom it fired fine.  3 years or 30 years dry is dry. It's just whether the gas lines or carb is clogged or not. Just saying.
I've never had a stuck valve but if pulling valve covers makes you feel better go for it. I'd take the chance of just cranking it over. If the rare chance of a bent push rod happens I'd replace it after the fact. I'm not pulling a cover if I don't have to. May sound lazy but I've started many sitting engines and never had a mechanical issue caused by sitting, though I did read an article of a sticky valve on the Jay Leno sight due to newer gas and ethanol.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.