Installing new header gasket

[Dino]

Since my pumpkin project is going nowhere fast, maybe I can tackle the leaky driver's side header.  From reading posts here I understand that the percy gaskets are the way to go. 

It's a 440 so space is pretty much non existent, what is the best way to proceed?  Do I simply unbolt the header at the pipe and then unbolt the header itself, hoping I can get it far enough off the block to clean the heads and flange and install the new gasket?  Is coolant going to be an issue?

Once more I have to do something I know very little about, maybe I should just do some bodywork.... 

[Chryco Psycho]

that would be the plan , get the headers as far as possible from the head , get the old gasket cleaned off & install the new one , I use a thin coat of Ultra Copper to seal them
yes coolant is an issue , every bolt goes into the water jacket unless they retained the studs , if the studs are in the heads the water will not leak out .

[Dino]

So assuming the heads start draining coolant when I take the bolts out, what do I do?  Do as planned and add the ultra copper to gasket and bolts and put all back together but then what?  Sorry, total novice here, I got the book on big block mopar engines and the one on performance but it's like reading Chinese sometimes!

Should I also remove the valve cover or anything else to get better access?

[RallyeMike]

Drain the water down in the radiator via the petcock. Also look to see if someone installed a block drain (You don't have to drain it all - just enough so that you get a little gush and it stops. Be sure to mop up the coolant and scrape the gaskets really good to ensure the best seal.

Removing the VC can help, but I would try without first. If you need more hand room, then go for it.

[Cooter]

Not sure if this helps YOU or not, but I usually on my '68 Dart with 2" Primaries (CPPA) underchassis headers, remove the Valve cover, then only loosen the header bolts enough to slide the header back enough to get the gasket out, but leave them in the head as the coolant will drain. Once you use a screwdriver to scratch off all the left over gasket material, SLOT the holes by cuttin the bottoms of gasket holes and slip new gasket in. Simply tighten the header bolts and re-install valve cover.

[Dino]

So slot the gaskets or drain the block, a little.  Ok I can do one of those.  Not sure if I'll be able to slot the gaskets, I'll have to find out when I have them in my hands.  Now am I wrong in my thinking?  If I remove the header bolts and coolant leaks out, can I simply let that drain, do what I need to do and when done add water to the radiator?  Should there be no drainage if the nuts come off the bolts but the bolts stay in the head?  I would assume there's a drain bolt behind the engine mount but will have to check and hope I have sufficient access to it.

Thanks for all the help so far guys, I really appreciate it.

[Cooter]

Sounds like you are more understanding with draining the coolant, so If doing it that way helps you then by all means...All I was saying was the way i do it.

By slotting the header bolt holes by cutting the bottom of the bolt holes in the gasket helps you "Slip" it back in between the header flange and head. Works for me...

If you pull all the header bolts out, then aligning the header back to the head to get the bolts back in, is kind of a pita(Pain in the a$$)...

[Dino]

Sounds like you are more understanding with draining the coolant, so If doing it that way helps you then by all means...All I was saying was the way i do it.

By slotting the header bolt holes by cutting the bottom of the bolt holes in the gasket helps you "Slip" it back in between the header flange and head. Works for me...

If you pull all the header bolts out, then aligning the header back to the head to get the bolts back in, is kind of a pita(Pain in the a$$)...

You make a good point there, didn't even think about the allignment.  My one concern with slotting the gaskets would be messing it up so they don't seal well.  I'll probably feel more confident once I have them in front of me.

[solids0be]

I just did a hedman header reinstall last month on my 400BB after replacing the starter. Coolent all over the place even though I drained out about 2 gallons from the radiator luckily I had enough cardboard down that it soaked it all up. For some reason every one of my header bolt holes drained coolent..owell,

posters above mentioned removing all the gasket material..its a PITA be ready to bust your knucked if your using a razor. I had a Bayonette...yes a bayonette in my tool box..it worked especially well because I didnt remove the header from the engine bay and it was long enough to reach the back of the header to scrape the burned hedman junk gasket.

Anyways I used a Felpro gasket put a bead of Ultra copper around the whole gasket on the engine side and lined it up on the block using the gasket like glue...Let it set for a couple hours then put another bead on the header side andwas just extra carefull not to shift the gasket alignment. Threaded the header bolts with some ultra copper on the ends to seal the water jacket thenn hand tighted then let it set for a couple more hours then used a socket set to tourqe it down till it squished slightly. I let it sit over night and then torqed them down till it was too hard to wrench. Then added coolent and prayed for no leaks..topped it off and let it set for a bit then turned her over...YAY no more exaust leaks...first time in 6 years that she didnt have that annoying exaust tick...make sure you re touqe the header bolts after a couple drives to ensure they stay tight I found mine really loosed up after a couple romps down the highway.

[Dino]

I just did a hedman header reinstall last month on my 400BB after replacing the starter. Coolent all over the place even though I drained out about 2 gallons from the radiator luckily I had enough cardboard down that it soaked it all up. For some reason every one of my header bolt holes drained coolent..owell,

posters above mentioned removing all the gasket material..its a PITA be ready to bust your knucked if your using a razor. I had a Bayonette...yes a bayonette in my tool box..it worked especially well because I didnt remove the header from the engine bay and it was long enough to reach the back of the header to scrape the burned hedman junk gasket.

Anyways I used a Felpro gasket put a bead of Ultra copper around the whole gasket on the engine side and lined it up on the block using the gasket like glue...Let it set for a couple hours then put another bead on the header side andwas just extra carefull not to shift the gasket alignment. Threaded the header bolts with some ultra copper on the ends to seal the water jacket thenn hand tighted then let it set for a couple more hours then used a socket set to tourqe it down till it squished slightly. I let it sit over night and then torqed them down till it was too hard to wrench. Then added coolent and prayed for no leaks..topped it off and let it set for a bit then turned her over...YAY no more exaust leaks...first time in 6 years that she didnt have that annoying exaust tick...make sure you re touqe the header bolts after a couple drives to ensure they stay tight I found mine really loosed up after a couple romps down the highway.

I looked at those fel pro gaskets ans wondered if they wouldn't do the job.  I have some ultra copper so I'll definitely try that, regardless of the gasket I use.

[bill440rt]

If you haven't looked into Remflex gaskets, might I suggest you check out their website:

http://catalog.remflex.com/

They make some of the best gaskets I've ever used. They are nice & thick, & compress when you tighten the header. I had a leak problem with my driver's side header. I replaced it with one from Remflex with no additional sealer. Worked like a charm.
Check 'em out.

[RallyeMike]

I love the Remflex gaskets. The only problem is that they are not reusable. IF you have lots of work to do on the car an intend to take it apart anytime in the future, go with copper or something else.

[Dino]

I will definitely check them out, thanks for the tip!  I do not intend to do any extensive work on the engine.  I have a valley pan with crossover block ready to go in and I need to find out if I have room for a heat insulating carb spacer but I doubt it. 

I am actually contemplating getting rid of the headers and replacing then with hp manifolds since it's a street car.  I wonder what that'll do to the sound coming ou the back though....

Anyway, I can't spend money on manifolds now, my first priority should be finding used 15" steelies off a late 70's truck or something and buying some new tires.  These skimpy 14" tires are not helping my highway speed/rpm ratio!

[charger2fast4u]

Anyone use the percys gaskets? I've heard there good but have no experience using them I need to change my gaskets looking for the best kind to use with my hooker   headers so I stop the leak

[terrible one]

Anyone use the percys gaskets? I've heard there good but have no experience using them I need to change my gaskets looking for the best kind to use with my hooker   headers so I stop the leak

I used the Percy's per recommendation of someone here and have been really happy with them. Also, they claim to be reusable.

[Skyview69]

I have changed many header gaskets on my 71 440.  I find the easiest way to do it is to remove the engine mount bolt on the side you are changing and gently jack up the engine on the oil pan with a block of wood to avoid damage to the pan.  THis usually gives plenty of room to reach the bolts and remove the header with enough room to clean up the head for the new gasket.  No need to cut slots in the new gaskets.  I usually use the fel pro with no sealer needed. 

[solids0be]

I have changed many header gaskets on my 71 440.  I find the easiest way to do it is to remove the engine mount bolt on the side you are changing and gently jack up the engine on the oil pan with a block of wood to avoid damage to the pan.  THis usually gives plenty of room to reach the bolts and remove the header with enough room to clean up the head for the new gasket.  No need to cut slots in the new gaskets.  I usually use the fel pro with no sealer needed. 

I did this as well when i changed mine out...lol my aftermarket chrome oil pan did not do to well though...dented the shit outta it lol...But it fixed the slight oil gasket leak