Second time driving around today, need to know whats wrong now?

[WH23G3G]

Ok I drove my 73 around the block again today once. It's about 1-1.5 miles. I let warm up for 5-6 minutes after we got it started. I started by pulling it out of my garage it was fairly easy to get started and when I pulled out to leave I heard the pop but didn't realize it was the suspension because the alignment is so off. So I shut off and my friend who was standing outside the car told me thats what it was. When we tried to start it again to leave it took forever to get it going again. Minutes and minutes. I had to finally remove the air cleaner and hand operate the choke and spray some carb cleaner in to get it started. That's when we let it warm up for awhile. It didn't stall either just letting it idle. When we were driving around we got it up to about 40-45MPH and the only problem was when slowed down to turn it wanted to idle down too low. And then when I went to back it into the garage it stalled because it idled too low. It took so long to get it cranked after I intially shut it off once I heard the pop that it wore my battery down again. I'm not sure if I should continue to run this carb which is out of a 77 Dodge truck 440 with nowhere to add on the idle stop solenoid. Or should I have the 6321S rebuilt that should belong on this motor. I really need to get it to the alignment shop so should I just idle it up more or do I need to do some more adjusting? How can you tell if the choke is working properly? I pulled that choke switch off a later Dodge so don't know if it's good. I'm afraid to drive it too far especially by myself until I get it where it will start up easier and not die out.  I think most of the hard starting is in the carb but don't know why. It was about 50-55 degrees today versus high 60s when I took it out before with no trouble. What are your suggesstions?

[bobs66440]

I'm a little confused. When you say you hear a pop, do you mean from the carburetor or suspension??

A pop from the carburetor is most likely a timing issue, or maybe you have the spark plug wires mixed up.

A pop from the suspension of bad alignment would not effect how it runs...

[WH23G3G]

No I heard a pop from the front suspension when I was pulling out of my garage so I shut it off to get out and look. So it was like I started and moved halfway out the garage and heard the pop from the front suspension then I shut it off to go see if something was loose on the suspension. But the alignment is just really bad. However, when I got back to start it up and go for a drive it took forever to start it up. The most time ever to get it to crank up. I don't know if something happened because I shut it off too quick and then tried to start again too soon. It was baffling, I couldn't figure out why that happened. So I think all the flaws with the way this engine starts, idles, and runs is because of this carb. I got it from a parts store in 2003 and it had been sitting in the box on my garage shelf since I put it on about a year ago. It was not even the correct carburetor for a 73 Dodge Charger 400. It was for a 77 Dodge Ramcharger 440 so where the idle solenoid should go on my original carb there is no where to put it on this carb. So maybe it's also jetted differently and has other small differences that affect how it runs. When  you're actually driving it, it has good smooth power and doesn't hesitate unless you try and dump it. It will bog down but if you get into steadily it will really move. I got a used 6321s which is correct for a 73 400-4bbl w/o California emissions sitting on my shelf. But I don't know if I should get a shop to rebuild it using a store bought kit, take it to someone who really knows TQs, or just put it on how it is and try it.

[elacruze]

Sounds to me like you just need a good choke adjustment.

[Cooter]

Sounds like the timing may be a little late. (Retarded). Check timing, then idle speed, then Choke adj.

[WH23G3G]

I was going to check this choke heater switch because I have a feeling it may not even be working. I pulled it off of a later model Chrysler with a 318. Don't even know if it's right. The only number on it is 6841. It has a large terminal and a small terminal but the BAT labeled on the switch could be to either terminal. I may have had it hooked up wrong? I was going to test it using the factory method and it said the small terminal without the hole through it is the (load) terminal. Does that mean thats where the choke thermostat wire plugs in or the one from the ignition? I was going to test it but I'm suppose to start it up and let it warm up and it's too late to do that now. We've had the timing checked and it can't get any closer. Maybe a performance shop could tweak it but it's as close as I can get it and it doesn't act like timing is off. I know it has to do with the choke or the carb adjustments or jetting. It acts just like my 86 Ramcharger did. It was forever having problems with the choke. It always took forever to start and it would stall out when you came to a stop everytime. But it had a Quadrajet on it. How do I adjust this choke if it's non adjustable? How easy are these cars suppose to be to start if it were all new? I know it doesn't start up like an EFI car but does it always take more than a couple cranks to get it going even if it were brand new back in 73?   

[elacruze]

Choke adjustment is one of the important tuning bits that people undervalue until it bites them. There is no substitute for a properly working choke, except a properly working accelerator pump; and if your choke is too rich, that's no help either.