stripes in my base coat freshly painted

[AmadeusCharger500]

Im very frustrated. Spent at least 30 hours sanding and prepping my trunk lid. I sprayed the base coat and I mixed the paint wrong (too much color) on the first coat. I now have visible streaks in the paint. Do I sand the whole thing and start over on the color coat? I'm also not sure if my overlap technique and spray pattern are the cause.

[restoman]

Just in the base coat? No clear on it yet?
Just give it lots of flash time, scuff any orange peel and dust out of it and re-spray.

[elitecustombody]

What brand paint and clear you used? Did you use right speed reducer/basemaker? What was the pressure at the gun and distance between gun and trunk when you shot base? What was the pressure at the gun and distance between gun and trunk when you shot clear?How heavy/slow did you shoot the clear?

[AmadeusCharger500]

I'm using a local brand that supplies to the body shops. I did not spray the clear yet as I know I need to fix this before I proceed. I'm encouraged that I might be able to fix it without having to wet sand everything. The tech sheet calls for 45 to 55 psi at the gun. I had 45. Im using slow reducer and it was just verging on 90 when I sprayed. I hold the gun about 10 inches away from the surface. 10 minutes between coats but at this point it will be 20 hours before I get to it again tomorrow.

[Patronus]

What color are you spraying? Metallics? Sounds like you have "fangs" or heavy areas near the ends of the spray pattern..

[AmadeusCharger500]

It is green metallic. I finally got it completely covered but only out of having to repaint several mistake areas and now painting in the hot weather I got orange peel on what I thought would be the last coat. So it looks like I wait till it cools off to buff it and do one last coat. Can't wait to clear this and be done with it.

[69 OUR/TEA]

My first question for you is,how much do you paint and have you ever?
10" is alittle on the far side for distance,more like 6'-8" is the norm.
You said 10 minutes between the coats,when you read these tech sheets they are refering to specific conditions with the adequit reducer for the current temp and air moving environment(spray booth).NTM,the paint will let you know when its ready for the next coat,could be shorter time could be a longer wait.
But,biggest thing which you have not commented on is the spray gun,and tip size in which you are using,that plays a huge part in a straight uniform layout of base coat and nice tight flat finish"orange peel" of the clear coat. .Alot of people think "big tip" and it is just the opposite for base and clear,you want to atomize "break up" the material as finely as you can as its making its way onto the panels.Another thing to remember with painting as far as reducers go,slower is faster.Meaning it will be drying from the bottom up instead of skinning over on the top keeping whats underneath wet,not good!!!!When I do the clearcoat portion of my paint jobs,or single stage,I start slowing down the reducer more and more as every coat goes on,and wait longer between to make sure solvent has been making its way out before more is going on.You ever seen a paint job that looks dead after a day or so????Thats the trapped solvent that was still wet underneath finally breathing its way thru the skinned over  top and killing your brilliant shine!!!!!
There is alot more than people think to painting and as I do respect those jumping in and trying to save some bucks and have some gratification of doing it themselves,but with it comes alot of aggravation as you are dealing with chemicals that at some times can be very tempermental,and can even stump the guys doing it for years that  know their products/tools,and spray guns  inside and out.Example,watch out closely for those reducers/activators/hardeners that have rather short shelf lives as they are one of the major culprits in wrecking a paint job you are doing if you try and use one that is over its limit on time frame as being good.
Anyway,you're problem to me sounds like it was in the gun/reducer department,and stay on the upper side of those pressure recommendations like 50-55psi.NTM,if it was a cheap,garbage paint product.

Good luck!

[AmadeusCharger500]

Well I gotta say thats a lot of great info and need time to think about. I must say that I totally acknowledge the silly audacity in what I am doing. I love learning and I did paint one of my cars (plum crazy) It was 10 years ago. I know I had the same issue with the stripes as I remember  a painter friend came over to look at it and he said oh no problem just start over. Wow frustration is like 2nd hand emotion on this job. So I get what you are saying and I very much appreciate that you still take the time to help a somewhat foolish endeavor.

So onto the specs. The gun is 1.3 tip. I'm using a slow reducer but I painted yesterday 9:00 a.m temps climbin allready to 90 degrees. I got great coverage but orange peel popped up all over the place. I was so very upset as the previous coats had a fantastic sheen that I coulda told someone it was clearcoated. SO I fixed the cover-age issue but now  I got orange peel. I tried again this morning at 7 a.m but it was 88 allready. So I got a heat wave which there is no way around I will have to wait till it cools down.

Lots to digest here. "slower is faster"!