Help!! 318 wiring in 69 Charger is driving me nuts...lol

[70plumrt]

Slowly i thought I was figuring it all out!

Had power at lights, ballast, coil, alt, starter, fuse box (jumped one)...even dome light!
Now I just have a super dim dome light...that's it! I think I cross the brake warning light with something.
I couldn't seem to find problem with indicators, horns and most importantly ignition...grrr!
The battery is still new and I unhook it after each try.

The previous owner had a few splices at alternator.
Any one have pics or schematics?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks

[HANDM]

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27

[nascarxx29]

Are you getting any power drains when car is off and battery connected.If you remove the positive cable from the battery with car off .And put cable back on the battery.Look for a noticable spark or a noise.If you are getting that the car has a electrical short somewhere.And it will kill the battery eventually.Another test is with a 12 volt testlight going from the + on the positive battery and other end on the + Pos battery cable .It lights the testlight brightly if theres something wrong. And you remove one fuse at a time to isolate the trouble area.Or one wire at a time on supposed trouble area.But for the test everything has to be turned off doors closed etc switches in the off positions.To get accurate results .Once your sure you have no wiring gremlins then you go onto to see if alternator is charging and the rest of the electrical systems are working .Dont forget all wiring connections need to be clean a tight .Known trouble areas to inspect are firewall bulkhead connection ampmeter connection and connections at fuse box.And insufficient grounds will cause you problems

[nascarxx29]

I think I have a few 68 or 69 main charger harness and later 70 years if need arises .I was out clearing stuff .And I pulled these out of cars 20+ years ago 318s a 6 cylinder cars back in the day were unmolested .Clean bulkheads but there old

[70plumrt]

Are you getting any power drains when car is off and battery connected.If you remove the positive cable from the battery with car off .And put cable back on the battery.Look for a noticable spark or a noise.If you are getting that the car has a electrical short somewhere.And it will kill the battery eventually.Another test is with a 12 volt testlight going from the + on the positive battery and other end on the + Pos battery cable .It lights the testlight brightly if theres something wrong. And you remove one fuse at a time to isolate the trouble area.Or one wire at a time on supposed trouble area.But for the test everything has to be turned off doors closed etc switches in the off positions.To get accurate results .Once your sure you have no wiring gremlins then you go onto to see if alternator is charging and the rest of the electrical systems are working .Dont forget all wiring connections need to be clean a tight .Known trouble areas to inspect are firewall bulkhead connection ampmeter connection and connections at fuse box.And insufficient grounds will cause you problems

There is no sparking or any crackling noise when I take positive on and off.
I tried the testlight from cable to + which comes on but it's just as bright as power at alt.
There seems to be no power going to coil now!
I'll have to charge up battery this weekend and see if that helps!

New battery and alternator!
Guys would come over and fire her up from under the hood but I haven't had it running with the key   

I should add that I was not getting power to instruments at fuse block so I jumped it...but instrument would stay lit up whole time!

How much were you looking for a good wiring harness?

Thanks

[nascarxx29]

I tried the testlight from cable to + which comes on but it's just as bright as power at alt.
With this test you shouldnt show light unless you opened the door and completed a circuit.
You should have no light or maybe a dim draw like if your clock was going.Putting the testlight between positive on battery and positive cable

Not starting by the key could be neutral safety switch or wire connections going to stater relay
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60848.msg679043/topicseen.html#msg679043

I unpacked those harness today after remembering where they were..Inventoried what I had packed them back up and back in storage.But will get it back out a give it a good going over assesement and let you know overall condition and a fair price .Compared to what repos sell for.I would be thinking $150-200 can furnish pictures and  accurate descriptions

Only thing I have 68-69 Charger main harness and 1/2 of front lighting.For anyone with a 70 Charger I have 3 main charger harnesses rallye dash keys buzzer etc door jamb switches and 1 engine harness and complete front lighting.And 3 70 B Body non rallye dash main harnesses

[nascarxx29]

As you said something underhood behind alternator been tampered with previously.Id check into that then firewall bulhead terminals .And then see if inside main harness is salvagable .As these 2 trouble areas can cause damage to main harness if things are not right