Which 440 block to go with

[wldside]

Hello,

I have a 1978 440 EHP engine that I am getting ready to rebuild for my 69 Charger.  I was planning to do the tear down today to prepare the block for the machine shop.  I am trying to find a forged crank as I intend to do a 500+ HP build.  In my search for a used forged crank, I have been offered a 1970 440 short block locally that has been gone through by a machine shop and already has a steel crank for $500.  I'm told that this engine was being rebuilt to be slight above stock.  That being the case, I'm not sure if really anything in this block other than the crank and some bearings will be me much good to me over what I already have.  I inspected the cylinder walls and there is some grooves.  The outside of the block shows some real light surface rust from sitting for three years in an old basement in since the work was preformed.  The machine shop that performed the work is no longer around and I am guessing that it would be in my best interest, if I were to get this block, to strip it down and have it gone through again by a machine shop.  I would guess that there will be additional machining that will need to be performed.

Here is what this block is said to have done:
* Block Hot tanked, Degreased
* Block has been machined to a 0-Deck Clearance
* New cam Bearings installed
* Steel crank ground 010-010, Rods, Mains
* Good STD Bore honed for Moly rings
* ARP rod bolts installed
* New Clevitte Rod & Main bearings
* Forged flat top std bore pistons 10-5-1 comp ratio
* Speed-Pro Moly rings
* New stock oil pump

So the question is ...... given the unknowns with this block and the fact that I will likely have to tear down and go through the machining process to an extent with this block as well, should I just find a forged crank for my 78 block and rebuild that for my 69 Charger.  Is there any advantage of having a block that is a '70 in my '69, over a '78.  Just not sure if a closer to year correct holds additional value? 

Thanks

[Cooter]

Personally, I'd build my later block as then I'd have the peace of mind that I know what's in it...Dump a steel crank in it though so you can run a 4-gear!

[John_Kunkel]

A "good standard bore" on a '70 block...not likely unless it was only driven a few miles and parked.

[wldside]

Agreed.  There was some grooves in the bottom end (closest to heads) parts of the cylinders in this 70 block.  Seemed odd to me that it was only on the bottom half, but I'm not familiar with the wear patterns on cylinder walls.  There is no doubt that it needs a fresh bore, I am told it was just honed.  Not sure why grooves were left in it by the machine shop???  Unless they have bored to the max and that was the best they could get it???  I would for sure need to verify the cylinder size before any money exchange.

The big question is should I just keep what I have since neither engine will be original to my car.  I do hear that the later 440 blocks have some small advantages over the earlier ones, but I don't know if that's true.  Also, maybe having a '70 in a '69 is more desired than a '78 in a '69??? 

Thanks for the input

[firefighter3931]

If you didn't have anything at this point the earlier shortblock would be worth considering....but you have a good core so i'd work with it and build from scratch. 

As John mentioned it would be very rare to find a descent std bore block.


Ron

[wldside]

I agree too.  I'm not sold on it being standard bore either.  The big question would be has it been bored to the max in the past and that is why the last machine shop left the grooves in the cylinder walls.  Other than if the guy didn't want to spend more money getting it bored to remove them, I just can't imagine why you would let an engine block leave the shop with wear grooves in the cylinder walls.  Without having calipers on me to verify the size, I bailed on the deal at the time.

Thanks for the replies.