News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

I got rust.

Started by Iceyone, July 19, 2010, 06:09:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Iceyone

Dropped the gas tank on my 68 over the weekend and discovered the rear frame rails are rotting away. Kind of surprising considering the car hasn't been driven since 1982. I wasn't exactly nice to the car back then, driving it on mud roads and in snow. Anyway I was checking prices on the AMD rear frame rails and at 399.00 each, I'd rather not pay that. Has anyone used ART's rear frame rail repair kits? I'm not sue if I like the idea of installing these over the old rusty rail. I doubt that I can find any donor cars here in the good ole midwest in any better shape than what I already have.   
68 Charger
70 Super Bee
11 SRT8 Challenger
30 Chevy Universal

Back N Black

If you only want to do the repair once and do it correct, go with the AMD frame rails.  :Twocents:

HOTROD

AMD is one reason y MOPAR cost so much  :RantExplode: money money money !!
What the Hell-Dumass !

Ghoste

Perhaps, but you have to admit that spending money with AMD is better than living with free rust.  ;)

Iceyone

Bad thing is only the last 12 -14 inches of the rails are going bad. Was kinda hoping to get the car running again without turning it into a full blown restoration. I've got the Super Bee completely torn down too, while I wait for someone to make a repo quarter panel.
68 Charger
70 Super Bee
11 SRT8 Challenger
30 Chevy Universal

HOTROD

If it is just the strait area get some 2x4 tube cut and splice !
What the Hell-Dumass !

68X426

Quote from: Ghoste on July 20, 2010, 05:40:24 AM
spending money with AMD is better than living with free rust. 

Damn Ghoste, you did it again. Great quote.  :lol:



The 12 Scariest Words in the English Language:
We are Here from The Government and
We Want to Help You.

1968 Plymouth Road Runner, Hemi and much more
2013 Dodge Challenger RT, Hemi, Plum Crazy
2014 Ram 4x4 Hemi, Deep Cherry Pearl
1968 Dodge Charger, 318, not much else
1958 Dodge Pick Up, 383, loud
1966 Dodge Van, /6, slow

riggs626

AMD dont mess with art been there tried that...had poor fit just use the amd frame rails much nicer

bill440rt

I'd either get rails from AMD & section them in, or use the caps from ART before hacking some 2x4 tubing back there.
:Twocents:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Mike DC

            

If only the last 12-15" is bad then I would go ahead and patch them.  Either section in some other rails or patch the existing rails.  

Of course a whole rail swap is more "professional", but in this case it means cutting apart a huge portion of the car's structure for a much smaller area of rust.  IMHO there's something to be said for leaving factory-done bodywork in place if there's nothing wrong with it.  The original metal quality was better than any repro ever is today and you know all the original welds & panel alignment were carried out exactly right. 

 

bill440rt

Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on October 27, 2010, 09:14:12 PM
           

If only the last 12-15" is bad then I would go ahead and patch them.  Either section in some other rails or patch the existing rails. 

Of course a whole rail swap is more "professional", but in this case it means cutting apart a huge portion of the car's structure for a much smaller area of rust.  IMHO there's something to be said for leaving factory-done bodywork in place if there's nothing wrong with it.  The original metal quality was better than any repro ever is today and you know all the original welds & panel alignment were carried out exactly right. 

 


The original poster stated he discovered his rear frame rails were "rotting away". In that case, I wouldn't patch anything. That means they are weak to begin with, the metal quality of those rails today compared to what they were 40 years ago is thin rusty garbage.
New rails would surely be an improvement (even IF the metal quality today isn't what they were when they were new 40 years ago), and would be a proper method of repairing the STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY vs welding in a patchwork quilt.
Bottom line is it would be a safer repair with new solid metal vs patched weakened rusty metal. I would section new rails forward of the rear leaf spring mount in a straight area, such as on either side where they run parallel with the fuel tank.
:Twocents:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Mike DC

Well, everyone's got their opinion.

I generally don't trust reproduction metal as much as original stuff (especially for frame structure), I generally don't trust sheetmetal restorations as much as factory assembly & welding, and I've seen a lot of cars with severe rust in one area and virtually zilch in another.  These experiences & biases are what leads me to suggest what I do. 

To each his own. 

:cheers:

Iceyone

Well this project is on hold for right now. I won't patch anything without ensuring I have solid metal to weld to.
68 Charger
70 Super Bee
11 SRT8 Challenger
30 Chevy Universal

Charger-Bodie

You can buy just the stub rails for the rear. I think they are like 30 inches or so. Give www.megapartsusa.com or call 608 452 2045.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Iceyone

I'll check them out. Thanks.
68 Charger
70 Super Bee
11 SRT8 Challenger
30 Chevy Universal