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POR 15

Started by MORFF, May 23, 2010, 01:27:31 AM

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MORFF

QUESTION FOR THE VETS I want to use POR 15 on the welds for my new floor pans my new trunk pan and my wheel wells and under carage. My problem is 50.00 a pint at the place where I have been getting my supplies. (Garrys auto Parts) does anybody know where I can get this stuff cheaper than that because I believe I will need allot of it to use it on my wheel Wells welds for my new panels and my under carage.Or is there anything else just as good but not for 50.00 a pint.
Mike O
A.K.A Dirty O

Semper Fi

elitecustombody

I'd stay away from that junk, nothing but horror stories, I'd treat any bare metal with coat of Picklex  or Ospho ,let it dry,scuff it up and spray epoxy, or if you still don't want to use any of that, get Rust Bullet :Twocents:


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan

Silver R/T

Why are you putting it on welds?! You are only supposed to put it on rusted steel. It's phosporic acid and it won't work with clean steel. All it is conversion coating that works on RUST.
Btw you can get on on ebay, I paid like $40+ for a quart
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

69*F5*SE

Picklex 20 works great for killing/converting rust and will also keep bare metal from rusting for a long period of time.  It has many uses inluding creating spatter free welds as well as "claims" to add 60% stronger weld strength.  I haven't tried the others except POR 15 and I don't recommended it. I know Silver R/T likes it but it didn't work for me. The rust came back through the POR 15 coating.   :shruggy:

Silver R/T

I'm not salesman for it but I can take a picture for you of my rusty floor trunk that I've done with por15 over 6 years ago and there's no rust in sight. I have used rust mort which is also a rust conversion coating that you can spray/brush
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Silver R/T

Quote from: MORFF on May 23, 2010, 01:27:31 AM
QUESTION FOR THE VETS I want to use POR 15 on the welds for my new floor pans my new trunk pan and my wheel wells and under carage. My problem is 50.00 a pint at the place where I have been getting my supplies. (Garrys auto Parts) does anybody know where I can get this stuff cheaper than that because I believe I will need allot of it to use it on my wheel Wells welds for my new panels and my under carage.Or is there anything else just as good but not for 50.00 a pint.

Sounds like you just want to rustproof panels after they're welded in, am I right? If so you need to spray it with epoxy primer and then go on with your topcoat and/or undercoating on the underside of the car.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

hemi-hampton

As far as I know these Rust convertors chemically react with rust &  convert rust to? It needs rust to convert or work, no rust, no conversion & a total wast of time in my opinion. Don'y understand why people keep insistng on putting these rust convertors on clean non rusted metal? If you have Rust, cut it out & replace it or blast & dont wast time with wire wheels, grinding, sanding, chemicals, ect, ect, ect. LEON. :scratchchin: :brickwall: :shruggy: :Twocents: :Twocents:

Silver R/T

Quote from: hemi-hampton on May 23, 2010, 02:40:05 PM
As far as I know these Rust convertors chemically react with rust &  convert rust to? It needs rust to convert or work, no rust, no conversion & a total wast of time in my opinion. Don'y understand why people keep insistng on putting these rust convertors on clean non rusted metal? If you have Rust, cut it out & replace it or blast & dont wast time with wire wheels, grinding, sanding, chemicals, ect, ect, ect. LEON. :scratchchin: :brickwall: :shruggy: :Twocents: :Twocents:

x2 EXACTLY! What pisses me off more is when someone throws por15, pixlex or whatever other crap they have on the clean metal and it fails and they try to blame the product. You all know who you are.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

69*F5*SE

No mudslinging from me.  We've all used some of these coatings etc. as to the average Joe they can be useful.  Everyone has their favorite ones and their own way of doing things.  :Twocents:

bill440rt

For the record, POR-15 is NOT a chemical rust convertor. It is a PAINT that bonds to rust, seals out moisture & oxygen to keep the rust from spreading. Their claim is that is stops rust. It WILL stick to clean metal that has been etched or roughed from sandblasting, sanding, etc. It WON'T work on clean, smooth metal. Surfaces need to be free from grease or contaminents.

Read the tech sheets on it. There's loads on info on their website. It is relatively cheap.

BTW, if you're welding in new floors, simply prime them with PPG DP epoxy primer.
:Twocents:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

MORFF

Thanks guys for all input you guys always help me out. You guys made me understand por 15 better. All the metal I would have used on it would be cleaned metal no rust on it. The meta that l can not be used because of rust would be cut out. I just want to protect the cleaned metal so i can have many years of enjoyment out of my car and not have to go back to fix what i am fixing now down the road. going backwards i want to stay away from that.
Mike O
A.K.A Dirty O

Semper Fi

69*F5*SE

Bill is right.  If you have clean bare metal the best thing to do is epoxy prime it fast. Give the metal some tooth for the epoxy to bite into.  I used PPG DP50 epoxy also.  Leon sprayed it.  Ted

MORFF

I have been using self etching primer for the work i have done so far. When i get done with interior body guy is going to do out side body work then go in paint booth for epoxy primer. do you think this method would be ok for the floor too. I do not have air compressor so i can spray other than rattle can. Or does anybody know of good paint gun where you do not need air compressor. That was the whole reason for por 15. tks
Mike O
A.K.A Dirty O

Semper Fi

hemi-hampton

I was thinking off Rust Mort when I made my previous comment. I do my stuff Different then most. I take the floor pan & put it on a stand or horse. Pull out my 6" D.A. & 80 Grit & D.A. the entire floor, top & bottom. Sand the little cracks or crevis's the DA missed by hand. Blow off, Wax & Grease remove, Then spray on PPG DP Epoxy either #40, #48, #50, #74, #90, doesn't matter. Or wash prime before hand (optional), Then POR 15 inner frame rails & trans crossmember, before installing floor(s) This is the only time I use or recommend the POR 15. Might as well as this will be your only opportunity to have access to these inner rails. (Same Process when doing a Trunk) I save the outside rails for Blasting using your choice of the proper material which varies & about 10-15 different blasting media's to choose from. Some will say 80 grit to course but sandng steel with 80 not the same as sanding paint with 80. Remove primer from ends where welding & go to town. Have fun. LEON.

moparmoynihan

I used a brush on paint called "Zero rust". I put it on 7 years ago, no problems yet. My floors were pretty clean, a few pin holes thats it. Has anybody used this stuff?
b7 1969 Charger 4 speed 440 4:10

69*F5*SE

I have and think it's good stuff.  It does what it says it does and is fairly affordable.  It's good for the inside of body panels, frame rails etc. It works better than POR 15 from my experience.  Ted