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Any one ever crack a upper control arm

Started by mopar0166, November 08, 2009, 09:22:32 AM

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mopar0166

Yesterday heading to a show I messed up my passenger upper control arm and ball joint.  My question is will it be worth the time and money to buy the adjustable upper control arms and if so then who should i go with ?  i saw a nice set on ebay???? :shruggy:

any help would be great, i really need it back on the road by the end of november for my class reunion.

HPP

I've cracked them, bent them, and otherwise broke them up pretty bad...back when I used them on oval track cars and they routinely got hit and slammed by other cars and concrete walls.

For a street car, I don't see a huge benefit for the cost of converting to tubular arms, unless you want to run large amounts of caster. Yes, they are a little bit lighter. Depending on manufacturer, they may be stronger, and they will offer a larger range of adjustments. But, most street cruisers can get the same benefits of a set of $300 tubular arms that they can get from a  set of $60 offset bushings.

Shop around here and other mopar sites. I'm betting you can get a used upper control arm for $20-30.

bull

I thought I saw someone selling new original-style UCAs the other day. I'll have a look around...

Here's a couple places but this isn't what I was looking at. Jeez guys, a little spendy don't ya think? :shruggy: At least the megaparts set comes with ball joints and bushings.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/19beboupcoar.html
http://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=165%2DUCAM

mopar0166

im just confused on what the best option is ? i just rebuilt the front end last year and did not replace the UCA ssince they were in good condition i went with them.   im not against using stock parts but i think if i have the front end apart it might be worth up grading them.   the car is on the street 99 percent of time with an occassional track night.  also i upgrading to a big block this summer and if a spicy 318 was in it now it makes me think about what a high horsepower engine will do.    i want to thank you guys for the feedback and continued help.  its never a dull moment.  if i didnt say it yet the car is a 69 small blok car. 


b5blue


mopar0166

just missed them, any other options, im not paying 350 for stock uca

bull

Quote from: mopar0166 on November 09, 2009, 09:24:24 AM
just missed them, any other options, im not paying 350 for stock uca

You'll be paying $300+ either way by the looks of it unless you find something used.

Mike DC

 
It's a stock upper control arm we're talking about.  Muscle-era B-body parts don't get much easier to find than this.

 

motorcitydak

Im going with tubular control arms for my car. Id sell you mine if I could get the ball joints out of the knuckles. I bent open my pickle fork trying to get the drivers side out and then just unbolted the K member so I could start the body stuff. Ill hammer on em again and try to get em out in good shape for you, just plan on new ball joints
96 Dakota, custom everything 4x4, 5.7 HEMI
'68 charger project
[OO!!!!!!!!!OO]


mopar0166

i actually had both ball joints welded in for now, since i have to do my second winter of reconditioning im continuing to look into different options   

b5blue


chargerhunter

I have a complete set on here for sale, can buy one or all..I'll make you a deal on the whole set. :yesnod:
68 Charger R/T clone 440/4spd
converted to '69 General Lee

68 Charger 383/727

mopar0166

i dunno, if I should still use stock or go with a tubular set for like 300


chargerhunter

Mine came off a parts car, my car I'm building..I like the look of the tubular but factory ones blasted and the clear coating sure look good too. Most folks paint 'em but they sure look good the way the factory did 'em. You can even get clear poweder coat now.
68 Charger R/T clone 440/4spd
converted to '69 General Lee

68 Charger 383/727

bull

Ebay seller classic_performance_cpp is selling original style UCAs, complete with bushings installed, for $139 with free shipping. Pretty good deal actually.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380220794808&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNARL:MOTORS:1123

Tilar

They had them for $119 a month or so ago. Same seller.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



bull

Quote from: Tilar on April 02, 2010, 07:43:28 PM
They had them for $119 a month or so ago. Same seller.

Well, that's even better. Either way, by the time you do all the labor and expense of cleaning up your old ones, painting or powder coating them and buying the bushings and ball joints I bet these new ones are almost a wash cost-wise. You can spend upwards of $150 just on UCA bushings and ball joints.

I emailed the seller to find out what kind of finish his have. I assume they're just painted but if they're powder coated that makes them even more cost effective.

ACUDANUT

Good deal. It cost me about 90.00 bucks for the pair just on parts. Then I have to pay labor to have all the parts installed.

b5blue

I have a set of the new ones from classic, they are black painted and look very correct in shape and thickness. I'm thinking of putting off-set bushings in mine before installing them with my 11 3/4 rotor disk brake set up (later this year) as I'm just 1 degree out of spec. now at max adjustment.  :2thumbs: