Dana 60

[ChargerSG]

My 1969 RT/SE Charger had its Dana 60 stolen 30 years ago, anyway since im restoring it i gonna get her a Dana again.
I wonder is there any number just for 1968 to 1970 b-body Danas? And what are the right measuring of it, since there are to many truck and odd Danas out there.
I want to buy a stock old and restore rather than buying i remake...

[Chatt69chgr]

Those truck Dana's don't have the pad cast or machined on them for the pinion snubber like the car dana's did.  The units from Strange Engr or Moser are about $2k and are ready to do and all new.  See this discussion for more info on building one from a truck dana:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/strange-engineering-s60-rear-end-147407.html

[ChargerSG]

Thanks

[John_Kunkel]

If you're going to modify a truck Dana 60 to fit a passenger car you need to know that the stock pinion offset is  1 3/16" to the passenger side and the driver's side axle (and tube) is 1 3/8" longer than the passenger side. Overal width and housing width are the same as the equivalent year/body 8 3/4".

The BOM number stamped in the passenger side tube can be used to identify original Dana 60's:


Bill of Materials Numbers:
68-69    B body    3.54   Powr-Lok   602957-1, -2, -3, -4
                         4.10   Powr-Lok   602957-5, -6
69.5-70  B body    3.54   Powr-Lok   603109-1, -2
                         4.10   Powr-Lok   603109-3, -5
               
70-72    B body    3.54   Trac-Lok   603222-1, -2
                         4.10   Trac-Lok   603222-3
                 

[troy.70R/T]

Thanks for the info John. I want to a dana rear end just like this for my 68 Charger. However I have a few more questions.
1. What is the difference between a Power-Lok and a Trac-lok  rear end?
2. What is a free floating axle?
3. Will it matter that this Dana 60 rear does not have a pinion snubber?
4.Can you give me any kind of list on what year make and model truck would have a (posi) Dana 60 in them.
Hope that is not to many questions at once.

[Cooter]

Troy, I reallize you were asking John, but I will try and answer numbers  2&3 if you like....

I believe it will matter if the "Truck" converted Dana 60 has a snubber..Reason being, is this is the only way other than some type of traction bar (Slapper bars) to control axle wind up upon hard acceleration...
Here is my own set up I custom made for the conversion Dana 60...




The "Full Floating" Dana axles are the ones with typically 6 or 8 lug and the axle bolts to the drum on the outside with about 8 bolts so if an axle breaks, the truck will still roll on the bearings...(3/4 ton truck usually with dual rear wheels..)

[troy.70R/T]

Thanks for the pictures and info Cooter. I was not really asking for just John's reply. Are the two bolts (one on each side) are all that hold your pinion snubber on? Did you just drill the holes in the webbing? Isn't there something better than traction bars now-a-days? Also wouldn't a floating axle be better than one that comes out and wrecks my quarter panel? Troy

[six-tee-nine]

SG,  Since I'm also located in Europe I'm also thinking about converting a truck Dana.
Not that when you are done and rebuilt it the right way, you are done cheaper with it.....it will cost almost as much when you put new stuff in it. However I don't dare thinking about the cost of shipping a new Strange axle over here. And then I dont even talk about the import fees (Over 20% on bill + shipping)......So thats why the Conversion would come into mind.

If you are lucky you can find yourself a W200 rear axle with a 4.10 and a rebuildable sure grip unit (some had them). If you like the 4.10 then you saved some money there.
Altough there are alot of truck and van axles that have deeper gears. I see the Stuck Danas advertised from time to time between 200 and 300 (Euro's)

I think even when you have the welding and narrowing done by a good workshop and buy new internals (bearings, gears and sure grips can be bought all over Europe) then you still save the amount you would spend on shipping and tax fees for a new axle.
However, you need to be equipped well and know your skills. You need to have acces to a press for placing the bearings and you have to have at least some knowledege about shimming out the bearings.

[Cooter]

First lemme say I have LESS THAN $700.00 US Dollars in my conversion, but I didn't have to pay anybody to do anything either....

There's a reason things cost more for those who need someone else to do it for them...


Troy, Yes, there is a such thing as a "Floater" type Rear..Not ness. Dana, as ANY rear can be set up with a Floater...This is mainly a "Race car" type set up as it allows the rear to "float" on the springs and needs a type of four link set up in order to keep it centered....Not really sure what you mean about floater rear and damaging your quarter panel..

Yes, I drilled two holes Through the Webbing and all it needs is those as if you look closely, there is a half round piece of metal above the pinion for support when it hits the floor pan...

[troy.70R/T]

Thanks Cooter. I was just refering to the axles being able to come out of the rear end if you break an axle. Thus wrecking a quarter panel. Thanks again.

[John_Kunkel]

1. What is the difference between a Power-Lok and a Trac-lok  rear end?

Each type uses a different type of clutch, the Power-Lok has clutch discs while the Trac-Lok has a cone clutch. The Power Lok is preferred.

2. What is a free floating axle?

The term is "full floating" axle, the brake drum rides on bearings at the housing end. This setup is heavy and bulky and usually has 8-lug wheel bolt pattern.

3. Will it matter that this Dana 60 rear does not have a pinion snubber?

As previously mentioned, without it there is nothing to prevent housing wind-up. Provisions for a snubber can be added to a truck housing cheaper than the aftermarket housing, I believe Doctor Diff still does this.

4.Can you give me any kind of list on what year make and model truck would have a (posi) Dana 60 in them.

The problem with the truck limited-slip differentials is they usually have smaller axle splines which kinda defeats the goal of having a stronger rear end.

[six-tee-nine]

If you are going for a concours restoration you'll need the pinion snubber.

Since I'll be needing everything new in the rear, I'll probably go for a setup with Cal-tracs in combination with their split mono leafs. Then you no longer need a snubber.
However if your skilled enough to do a truck Dana conversion yourself, then fixing a snubber on it can't really be the major problem....

[troy.70R/T]

If I use a truck rear end I am going to need to buy new axles. If I buy new axles can I buy new side gears so I can use the bigger spline? And just how many spline axle would I want?

[six-tee-nine]

I think you can if you really want to, but it surely does'nt sound right to change just your side gears in your diff. (new parts on worn ones are a no go imo).
So if you want to do it right and you buy new axles, then you get the same spline as your current diff or get new larger spline axles and a new matching diff.....