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Are you using exhaust manifold gaskets on your 440? UPDATE!!

Started by 1969chargerrtse, February 28, 2010, 10:51:20 AM

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1969chargerrtse

I'm heading out to the garage to lift my engine up and un bolt the exhaust manifolds AGAIN to see if they are warped, and have them machined flat.  My buddy John says he never uses gaskets and has no leaks, how about anyone else?
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

b5blue

New they had none, I used copper ones in the past that worked well, just needed re-tightening for awhile. (I had heads that had been port matched for headers and lost surface area for HP manifolds to seal) I would try the copper first.

TylerCharger69

From the factory.....no gaskets were used i don't believe....But....reassembly?...Yes...use gaskets

tan top

true  no gaskets from the factory  :yesnod:   been using felpro gaskets  , from their engine tear down kit  :yesnod:  on original manifolds  & on the Yr1 repops , no probs
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Sublime/Sixpack

I've never used gaskets on the big block exhaust manifolds, and have never had problems.  :shruggy:
1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

70charginglizard

I use those graphite ones. Never seem to have any problems when I use them.  :2thumbs:
70charginglizard

Nacho-RT74

no gaskets on mine ( 400 but same ). just a light High temp RTV coat
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Chatt69chgr

What about when you are using aluminum heads and repop cast iron exhaust manifolds?  What is the recommended gasket for this configuration?

Nacho-RT74

I would say the same, no need for them... gasket needed just on headers.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

1969chargerrtse

So even though gaskets only last me a year, you guys think I would be better off with none, or none with red RTV?
I was gonna go thin copper with the red RTV.  I'm also gonna use the RTV on my exhaust threads because I have tried 3 types and they still bleed antifreeze
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

billssuperbird


68r/t

Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on March 01, 2010, 07:06:00 PM
So even though gaskets only last me a year, you guys think I would be better off with none, or none with red RTV?
I was gonna go thin copper with the red RTV.  I'm also gonna use the RTV on my exhaust threads because I have tried 3 types and they still bleed antifreeze

Use the GM  sealer on the exhaust studs as it was made for sealing the head bolts on GM motors as they are exposed to the water jackets.

maxwellwedge

Quote from: Sublime/Sixpack on February 28, 2010, 04:41:57 PM
I've never used gaskets on the big block exhaust manifolds, and have never had problems.  :shruggy:

Same here. If you do got the manifolds surfaced spend the extra money on milling. The shops that belt sand them make them worse!

1969chargerrtse

I did a quick hand sand and laid a straight edge down and they seemed fine?  I'm gonna try the copper gaskets with the high temp RTV stuff.  I hope this is it. Got some great tips from Ron on another thread.  Thanks for the replies.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: 68r/t on March 01, 2010, 07:53:23 PM
Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on March 01, 2010, 07:06:00 PM
So even though gaskets only last me a year, you guys think I would be better off with none, or none with red RTV?
I was gonna go thin copper with the red RTV.  I'm also gonna use the RTV on my exhaust threads because I have tried 3 types and they still bleed antifreeze

Use the GM  sealer on the exhaust studs as it was made for sealing the head bolts on GM motors as they are exposed to the water jackets.
Any exact name?  Get it at a dealer?
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

62 Max

Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on March 01, 2010, 07:06:00 PM
So even though gaskets only last me a year, you guys think I would be better off with none, or none with red RTV?
I was gonna go thin copper with the red RTV.  I'm also gonna use the RTV on my exhaust threads because I have tried 3 types and they still bleed antifreeze

Get a tube of this,is seals everything.You can use it everywhere a sealer is required and it won't leak.

Chryco Psycho

I have never used gaskets on the exhaust manifolds , they just blow out , I just use a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Copper & bolt them up

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: 62 Max on March 03, 2010, 10:32:21 PM
Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on March 01, 2010, 07:06:00 PM
So even though gaskets only last me a year, you guys think I would be better off with none, or none with red RTV?
I was gonna go thin copper with the red RTV.  I'm also gonna use the RTV on my exhaust threads because I have tried 3 types and they still bleed antifreeze

Get a tube of this,is seals everything.You can use it everywhere a sealer is required and it won't leak.
I just don't get how any silicone sealer can take the heat and pressure?   Help me here.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on March 04, 2010, 07:33:39 PM
Quote from: 62 Max on March 03, 2010, 10:32:21 PM
Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on March 01, 2010, 07:06:00 PM
So even though gaskets only last me a year, you guys think I would be better off with none, or none with red RTV?
I was gonna go thin copper with the red RTV.  I'm also gonna use the RTV on my exhaust threads because I have tried 3 types and they still bleed antifreeze

Get a tube of this,is seals everything.You can use it everywhere a sealer is required and it won't leak.
I just don't get how any silicone sealer can take the heat and pressure?   Help me here.

as I can see, the RTV will just fill out some small irregularity on metal surface. No matter if burn or not, the RTV will keep filled those irregularities. Those irregularities are not more than some pourous ( sp ? )

now diff stuff is you have a dent on surfaces or if manifold is bended. In that case you should resurface them.

I don't think you'll find some way to have a leak with flat surfaces metal to metal and propperly tighted up.

maybe not with a good gasket, but with a regular one you have a weak material there that will make a gap between both IRON pieces, then the leak chance.

Metal to metal there is not a gap chance

There is not a Mopar PN for stock manifold gasket because they simply weren't used from factory.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

resq302

I used what Ron suggested when I did my cast iron hp exhaust manifolds, I cut down the exhaust gaskets so they were the exact size of the port so you couldn't tell that it had a gasket and then lightly smeared Ultra Copper gasket silicon on there.  So far so good with no blow outs.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

1969chargerrtse

Well, I did it.  I went with manifolds only for the first time ever.  I did use high temp sealer and snugged them down as Ron advised.  I hope it's quiet.  If it's quiet metal to metal, I should be good.  Lets hope.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

kw mopar

I just got my new manifolds for my hemi install, they are the bare cast. I do not want to paint them the orange over spray as original. Is there  a clear coat or coating of some kind I could put on them to slow down the rusting. Would High heat spray bomb clear coat be any good. Rob.

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: kw mopar on March 07, 2010, 08:59:09 AM
I just got my new manifolds for my hemi install, they are the bare cast. I do not want to paint them the orange over spray as original. Is there a clear coat or coating of some kind I could put on them to slow down the rusting. Would High heat spray bomb clear coat be any good. Rob.
Me? I used Eastwoods Cast Iron high temp paint that comes in a can.  You brush it on and it last a long time.  If you need to do a quick touch up fix you can just brush it on while the manifolds are on the car. :2thumbs:
You can see the manifolds in the video I just posted.   They are 2 years old and have been touched a lot.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

Well I did it.  I tightened up the manifolds after a night of being snug with high temp sealer and let er rip. The car sounds great.  I guess the advise of no gaskets worked. :2thumbs: Who would think? All these times of unbolting the engine, dropping the H pipe, lifting the block up with a jack by the lip of the oil pan and installing new gaskets twice, was not the way to go? When all else fails, do it the way the factory did. :slap: Thanks for all your advise Ron and you all. :laugh: I would think this is it.  What can wear out or blow out?  Metal to metal should last forever.

This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.