Why this?

[Belgium R/T -68]

I bleeded my breaks some time ago with the brakeboostervalve plugged, didn't thought it would matter. Today when starting up the car with boosterhose attached
for the first time the pedal hits the floor, do I still have air in the system that I can't get out if the boostervalve is plugged? When I afterwards plugged the valve again the pedal
was normal.

Per

[1969chargerrtse]

I've never heard this stuff before?  I don't disconnect my booster valve when I bleed my brakes? The hydraulic system is all enclosed, what does the booster valve have to do with brake bleeding?

[bordin34]

How are your rear drums adjusted. They could be bled properly but if the drums aren't tight enough you will have no pedal.

[Belgium R/T -68]

I've never heard this stuff before?  I don't disconnect my booster valve when I bleed my brakes? The hydraulic system is all enclosed, what does the booster valve have to do with brake bleeding?

I really didn't disconnect it since evrything is new. What I mean is that the powerassistance have never been activated before and that's why I have to bleed again maybe?

Per

[Back N Black]

I've never heard this stuff before?  I don't disconnect my booster valve when I bleed my brakes? The hydraulic system is all enclosed, what does the booster valve have to do with brake bleeding?

I really didn't disconnect it since everything is new. What I mean is that the powerassistance have never been activated before and that's why I have to bleed again maybe?

Per

The power assist should not affect the bleeding prodcure, i say you still have air in the lines. I did the same all new system and no problems on start up.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Will give it a try tomorrow, thanks guys.

Per

[six-tee-nine]

Per ther should not be any diffrence in tpower assist connected or not. If now 2 months lateryour pedal hits the floor then I personally think about a leak.
If you have air in the system, then it was there when you bled the brakes the first time and it did'nt go anywhere

I would try to visually check your brake system to search for leaks. then you might try to bleed the brakes again if the pedal feels the same. also make sure that your rear drums are adjusted properly (meaning : adjust until they slightly drag and then adjust them back a tiny little). Front disks should be fine since they position themselves after on step on the pedal.

If that does'nt work then I suggest you always have someone in the back seat with a boat anchor ready  
No really If you think I might be of any help then call me (I had my fair share of brake isues with my 72 Merc 280 last summer)

BTW got in touch with mike yet? no result here.....

[mauve66]

i assume you bench bled the reservoir before hooking up all the lines, then bleed the lines starting with the cylinder the farthest away and working your way to the front drivers side??

[b5blue]

The output of the booster has an adjustable nut on the end that must be set to the correct depth of the master cylinder. Too long and the master cylinder never fully seats backwards to give a full stroke for the next pump. Too short and the peddle stoke is not long enough and full pump from the master will not happen. (Because of the Z bar linkage difference) I agree and pointed out that the rears must be snug in you other thread. It's easy to think they are snug but not be as if they haven't centered themselves with a few good pumps then been re-adjusted one shoe may touch and you think (By feeling resistance on the adjuster or drag on the drum) that they are snug. Even a tiny air bubble in the master still will also mess everything up badly too. It may be any of these or all combined. I recommend a good pneumatic vacuum bleeder not the little hand pump Mity Vac thing to suck the system out and clear any air, snug the rear shoes and retest. If the adjuster on the booster is too short you can feel it by pushing with your hand on the peddle, it will move easy for a distance then you will feel it touch the master. If it's too long the master has to be removed and the depth adjusted by turning the nut in some, you can check the depth with anything that fits in the hole in the back of the master cylinders plunger (I used a wooden coffee stir stick and a marker then turned it around.)