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Supplier-Trunk Pan

Started by troutstreamnm, February 07, 2010, 02:36:28 PM

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troutstreamnm

Looks like I need to get a new trunk pan for my 70 Charger.  When I dropped the fuel tank, a 4" crack daylighted in the trunk pan  :'( Where should I go that has quality single piece pan?  I know YearOne has some and I can get 20% off today, but don't know if they are any good.  Also, can the pan be installed without removing the fender panels? (just curious).  I won't be doing the body work, but just need some idea of the shop time to remove the old and weld in the new.  Thanks.
2008 SRT-08 Challenger
1971 GA4 Challenger
1970 FK5 Charger 500

y3chargerrt

You will have to remove the taillight panal to install the one piece floor pan.

Troy

AMD manufactures the one piece pan. They have many resellers - but I wouldn't use Year One as their price and shipping will be way higher than others. Look in our Group Buys section and you'll see a few vendors selling AMD parts at a discount.

As mentioned, you can't fit the one piece pan in through the trunk opening so something else will have to be removed as well. I don't really think it's a lot of work - almost every car on this site has needed a trunk pan replaced.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

troutstreamnm

OK great, thanks for the info  :2thumbs:
2008 SRT-08 Challenger
1971 GA4 Challenger
1970 FK5 Charger 500

troutstreamnm

Do you guys recommend the full pan or the half pans?  I just automatically assumed the full pan was better, but maybe not.  What do you think?  Thanks.
2008 SRT-08 Challenger
1971 GA4 Challenger
1970 FK5 Charger 500

jaak

I would use adeals before year one....they have better shipping, quick service, and usually there parts are a few bucks cheaper than any other vendor. They carry AMD stuff.

Jason

Troy

Quote from: jaak on February 07, 2010, 08:14:34 PM
I would use adeals before year one....they have better shipping, quick service, and usually there parts are a few bucks cheaper than any other vendor. They carry AMD stuff.

Jason
Them too.

The full pan is really nice compared to the two piece pan because you don't have to figure out what to do with the seam. If all you're replacing is the trunk pan then you're pretty much stuck with the two piece version though.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

elitecustombody

OP, send me PM with your shipping address,business or residence, I'll get you a quote,

There are ways to put in full pan without removing any body panels, you'd have to do small relief cuts in flanges, bend the pan just enough for the pan to fit through the opening, straighten it back out,little hammer and dolly and you're good to go, also look into metal panel bonding adhesive instead of glue, no rust to worry about, no welding or grinding.

Stefan 


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan

moparguy01

I always found something wrong with using that panel bonding adhesive for something like a trunk floor or a quarter panel on old cars. call me old fashioned I guess.


troutstreamnm

Thanks for the input everyone.  I got a quote through 521 Restoration using the DC.com member discount and will order a set of half pans.  :cheers:
2008 SRT-08 Challenger
1971 GA4 Challenger
1970 FK5 Charger 500

elitecustombody

Quote from: moparguy01 on February 08, 2010, 12:29:03 AM
I always found something wrong with using that panel bonding adhesive for something like a trunk floor or a quarter panel on old cars. call me old fashioned I guess.



Hmm... I wonder what did you find that was wrong with that product and how many times.  :popcrn:


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan

superbirdtom

I remember going around with people about panel glue. Ive given up on telling people how much less work it is and how damn strong it is. let em weld and get rust between all the metal . theres a place for welding and a place for gluing. the companies do rollover tests and roofs are actually stronger being glued/
.
                                                       I am doing a dodge pick up roof next week and I will cut old roof off prep my panel for glue. then Paint the exterior roof panel top off of the high 4wd truck then glue. all done and I don't even have to mask off the whole blasted truck or cover windows for grinding weld spattepaint etc. . and its waaay faster. I work comission so I have to know the shortest and best ways to do things. typically in a 40 hour week I get 160 hours sometimes 190, by beating the pants off the estimates. while I watch the other slowpoke guys in the shop that don't listen to me just struggle away and end up with 60 hours at the end of a 40 hour week.

                       The muscle cars i have done . not many can ever tell I used glue unless I tell them. let em keep welding away. 

moparguy01

Quote from: elitecustombody on February 09, 2010, 11:17:16 PM
Quote from: moparguy01 on February 08, 2010, 12:29:03 AM
I always found something wrong with using that panel bonding adhesive for something like a trunk floor or a quarter panel on old cars. call me old fashioned I guess.



Hmm... I wonder what did you find that was wrong with that product and how many times.  :popcrn:

sorry, let me rephrase that. I can see your confusion.  :lol: I always found something morally wrong with using panel bonding adhesive on old cars. my bad. it just seems weird using adhesive to repair classic iron.

superbirdtom

I see your point and to some extent I agree. But then if you are welding . I believe in exact spotweld duplication with weld through seam sealer , no plug welding. when you plug weld you are not doing what the factory did although when your done you will hide your plug welds.

                     most people always plug weld its ok  but around places that you can see like the wheelwell and door jamb area you must try to use a spot welder  .I have a couple  I have a huge prospot on wheels cost around 6k   and a titespot welder and a miller smaller clamp resistance spotwelder and a bunch of different tips to mimic factory spotwelds. But  its easy to make a pair of visegrips and make a tool that clamps on the edges and looks like a spotweld. or you can use the titespot and clamp it where you see the spotwelds and mimic the spotwelds , then glue into place .  when You use glue  like on a full quarter all the seams are sealed and no water can get beteween the spotwelds.

                               But according to codes you always weld around the tail  light area, still don't know  why but thats the rules from I-car.  When I go look at a resto I look in the trunk and around the wheelwells and usually can tell immediatly they have been replaced ,   most except the real expensive restorations get the kind of detail I am talking about.  Some restorations I see are so accurate the owner wants dirt and orangepeel in it and thats cool with me. I guess it boils down to                how detailed your project is going to be in the end and if your going all the way to replicate exact factory appearance.