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73 400 starter mounting issues

Started by WH23G3G, December 20, 2009, 06:14:22 PM

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WH23G3G

How in the world do you tighten the nut on the stud for the starter mounting on this 400? I got the stud on the transmission where the starter mounts. I got it hung on the stud the washer and the nut started. It's got dual exhaust and HP Manifolds all bolted up. I can't get a wrench on the nut because of no room or a socket on an extension because of the shape of the starter on the top. If I tried to do it that way with the extension and socket it would definitely round of the nut because of the angle the socket won't full seat on the nut. Actually I can't even get an position where I can even see the nut on the top. There's no way it's going to happen from the top, I can't even see the starter from the top. What's the trick getting this tight? I can't believe a starter on this old of an engine can be this difficult to get on and off.

bordin34

Try going from the bottom, thats what I had to do.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

WH23G3G

I've tried from the bottom. That was the only way I could but I couldn't get anything on the nut, a socket or wrench. Is there some kinda special tool I have to get to do it, maybe some kind of different wrench?

Dodgecharger74

74 charger se
82 dodge PU fleetside short box 440
05 magnum 5.7 Hemi
04 rumble bee hemi

bordin34

I think I used the closed side of an open ended wrench to break it free or an 1/8" drive ratched, then loosened it with an 1/8" drive wrench or my fingers. I was able to do it from the top and bottom with my headers.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

WH23G3G

You mean a 1/4" ratchet? That might work but I don't have an 11/16" 1/4 drive socket. I doubt any parts stores have them either. I went outside and tried to mess with it again and had no luck. I'll have to search for a 1/4 drive 11/16" socket tomorrow.

alcusswhen

Quote from: WH23G3G on December 20, 2009, 06:30:52 PM
I've tried from the bottom. That was the only way I could but I couldn't get anything on the nut, a socket or wrench. Is there some kinda special tool I have to get to do it, maybe some kind of different wrench?

Tighten the bottom one first run the top as far as you can by hand then get it from the top with s wrench. Now 40 yrs ago I bought myself a set of snap-on stubby box open combo wrenches. They work great in all kinds of places and they turn the top starter bolt/nut. MAC, MATCO and Sears also has them. Also sears has a curved 5/8, 9/16th box combo that works good.
Bone 7

73 Charger SE/ 318/391 stroker, 2500 Boss Hogg converter/ 391 sure grip.
07 Charger R/T

62dodge

I just cut a 5/8 box wrench in half years ago replacing a starter on a 71 cuda. I still use that wrench on all starter replacements.

WH23G3G

I got the bottom bolt in no problem because it's a bolt but at the top it's a stud and it takes an 11/16" socket or wrench neither of which I can get on. I'll have to go to Sears or hit a tool truck for a offset 11/16" maybe, I don't know. I don't see how I can get to it with anything. I may have to remove it and start all over again. Is it this hard on all the Chrysler big blocks?

FLG

Ive always managed to get the top nut on mine with a ratchet and extension. Usually it dosnt go "quite" on the nut but i just take my time being careful not to slip.

451-74Charger

Take the manifolds out from the car, bolt up the starter, replace manifolds..Just like a chebby

WH23G3G

I'm trying to avoid that. I know I can eventually get it tightened, just have to try some different approaches. I got a stubby 11/16" wrench today and will try that. I couldn't find a 1/4" drive 11/16" socket anywhere, I'll have to try that if the wrench doesn't work out.

Nacho-RT74

I have been able to fit the nut with my hands ( not without twist here and there of course) untill get it threated to the end and then simply find a wrench ( round 12 points side ) able to fit there, of course just tighten 1/8" or less of turn at a time because more will be imposible LOL

Stud and nuts threads needs to be CLEAN to be able to run the nut up to the end with hands/fingers
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

WH23G3G

I got a new stud and nut so it goes on good. I tightened it down finger tight as much as possible so when I can get a wrench on it won't be much needed. Definitely won't be able to torque this one down to factory 30lbs-ft, there's no way to get a torque wrench anywhere near it. So I'll just do it by feel. I've been trying to tighten everything on the car to factory torque specs but then I found out a lot of it wasn't accessible.

maxwellwedge

Does a 73 have a splash shield you can remove in the inner fender to get at the nut that way?

WH23G3G

Yeah I thought about that but there still isn't any room because of the manifold and gear box.

no318

Not a piece of cake, but you can do it with a wobbly and extension or an extension with rounded ends to allow some movement without a universal joint.  It can be done.  My advice is to not put on the cheapest reman. starter you can find....unless you want to do it again.

Bob

Quote from: FLG on December 21, 2009, 01:22:27 AM
Ive always managed to get the top nut on mine with a ratchet and extension. Usually it dosnt go "quite" on the nut but i just take my time being careful not to slip.

Agree with FLG. Patience. 

alcusswhen

Quote from: 451-74Charger on December 21, 2009, 03:16:53 PM
Take the manifolds out from the car, bolt up the starter, replace manifolds..Just like a chebby

I've never taken a manifold off to replace the starter on a Chevy, not even on a 1958 with a 348.
Bone 7

73 Charger SE/ 318/391 stroker, 2500 Boss Hogg converter/ 391 sure grip.
07 Charger R/T

alcusswhen

I used a 94 5.2 starter on  my 73 smallblock. Talk about easy to r&r and by buying a Auto Zone reman I only paid 50 bucks for it. Instead of 150 to 200 for a so called mini starter thats the same thing. And it's the same part # as a Viper starter.
Bone 7

73 Charger SE/ 318/391 stroker, 2500 Boss Hogg converter/ 391 sure grip.
07 Charger R/T